Akula0083 30 Watt Self Running Generator.

[energia9]

You guy's crack me up, instead of trying to understand the principle of whats happening in the circuit you sit around trying to figure out how they faked it..........why are you even here? ?   go play ping pong or watch tv like the rest of the sleepers.

Romero said there's no power regulation on the bottom side of the circuit and C2 C3 and C4 could blow if the load does not match the power output, so be careful.
[/quote
i admire your openness , i like the way you think , but there are people who want to make fool of us , and im just seeing through them.

[MenofFather]

He answers to my comment "И ещё, что важного в той части, где Л1 и R1? R1 важен? Но это просто сопротивление, которое только потери создаёт, не так? Л1 важен (левый)? Но это просто дросель, который импульсы превращает более в синус, чтоб на микросхему помех-импульсов не шло, так что там важного?"[/font][/size]Answer: "Все резисторы важны !  Кондёры 2000 мкф 35 вольт . Кондёр надо поставить перед кренкой , а не после дросселя !!! Это исправить надо в схеме. Далее напрягайте ум Ваш господа по поводу 15 и 16 ног микросхемы   Они там играют большую роль в регулировки скважности."[/font][/size] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpwm2-eJiiM)
Here say, that all resistors are important. And say, that capasitor need put before 12 volt stabilizer, but not after choke. But that capasitor I not understood.
Maybe he that means:

[wattsup]

Here is the 12v 10w flood light used in the second video.  I wish he would have shown inside black box to show no battery.

http://www.parts-express.com/portable-10w-cob-type-super-bright-led-work-light-rechargeable-flood-light-lamp-yellow--361-361

@all

Hala f'n luya. I was waiting for someone else to say this instead of pesky @wattsup shooting off his mouth again. hehehe

The lamp in question has the following description. "Portable 10W COB Type Super Bright LED Work Light Rechargeable Flood Light Lamp Yellow."

All @x-name41 really needed to do was redo his former video and just lift the circuit board and transformer off the table. That's all he needed to do in a one minute follow-up video. Instead we see his "lamporious" (new word) effort to make you believe that lamp has no batteries inside. Wow. No proof man. Then he tries to distract you by showing that there are no batteries inside the lamp handle. This is often the case when you have something to hide, you show something else that has nothing hidden. hehehe

I strongly recommend that you guys not consider @x_name41 devices as typical of the Akula 30 watt unless he decides to stop playing tricks.  Most importantly, his build does not  include a copper strip in his transformer so how can you expect the same results as Akula.

@all

I put a post in my thread to not clutter up this thread. hehehe

http://www.overunity.com/13234/welcome-to-understanding-overunity/msg393003/#msg393003

But please if anyone answers that post relative to works done here, please post it here without copying the complete post and putting it here. Also, please do not copy the complete post if you are posting in my thread. hehehe

@Grumage

If your circuit maker can also populate them and if the IC's are on those push on terminals for easy replacement, plus if the transistor can come with a push in socket again for easy replacement, I would be good for two circuits via Paypal. Ideally if that R&D circuit could have push in terminals for IC's, transistors and any capacitor that controls the pulse frequency range and/or pulse width. This way if you need to change the frequency range it could be as simple as changing of a capacitor. Top EEers would know better about which one(s) to consider. Even if the circuit costs 10 bucks more, being able to change a blown component by simply pulling it out and pushing another one in will save time and be less of a hurdle for guys to continue their R&D.

wattsup

PS: The freakiest thing. As I posted on both threads, both threads show a read count of 18199. That is so freaky.

[From other Planet]

Good evening Hoppy.

It appears that your advice was perhaps a little too late for dear From other Planet !!

However we need to find out what is basically overloading the drive circuit ?? We now have got two prototypes that have burned out. Do we have, dare I say OVERUNITY ?? A rising out of control event ??
A scope would be of great help whilst testing this circuit so a runaway could be avoided.

Keep up the great work Guy's !!

Cheers Grum.

Hey, no im not yet at 30W akula. Still busy with attached schematic and scopeshots from Romero. But i see interesting waveform on scope. Here quote of my post in Romero forum:

"Hi Romero,
I'm trying to replicate attached schematic from u. Sadly i didn't see the post where u said  to wind on top of each other. So i wound all 3 coils together, like a bedini. Of course L3 ends earlier, as its only half length. I'm also not really sure what u mean with on top of each other. Like 1 coil on 1 side of air gap, 1 on other, and Output above both? I'm using small airgap, as a certain gap so far gives best results. Also i not really understand the tuning with different octaves for L1 and L2, my coils both "vibrate" at same frequency, which is dependant on the size of the tuning capacitor.
The good news is, i see these additional square pulses that seem to come out of nowhere, like on ur scopeshots, but only 1 till 4 per MOSFET pulse, depending on Input Voltage. And without the additional high frequency ringing on the waveform
BTW, what u mean with litz wire for L1 and L2, u mean many from each other insulated strands?
Please dear Romero give me a hint 
kind regards,
From other Planet"

[lost_bro]

he is a faker, no one listened to my post, these smd lights are not modifiable!!  they are casted in polyester resin and have a 110/240-10 volt converter in them , they need 110-240 Ac to operate.    how does he light this floodlight with his low output? no chance mate.  a weak fake..

Hello All:

Well I am sorry to differ with you on this one:

I run an Alternative Solar Energy company, and every day we deal with LED (solar and conventional lighting):

I commonly rewire LED to run from 12/24 VDC and mod them to work from Buck and Boost converters.

All LEDs are DC animals......   All of the models that we stock and sell and install are incontrovertible (using the appropriate Buck or AC-DC SMPS or Boost) from one supply voltage to another.

I can remove the SMPS or Converter from the backside of the LED 'fixture' and run it from straight DC without a converter using the  appropriate DC voltage, which depends upon the make and manufacturer of the LED lamp.

I have run LEDs from a type of Air coil with super high voltages and very little current......  Afterwards they still function on 12VDC.

So, I don't know if the video in question is a fake, but I will say that NOT all LED fixtures have a cast polyester Voltage converter that cannot be removed.....

take care, peace
lost_bro