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Overunity Machines Forum



Quantum Energy Generator (QEG) Open Sourced (by HopeGirl)

Started by madddann, March 26, 2014, 09:42:27 PM

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0 Members and 90 Guests are viewing this topic.

MarkE

STP19NF20 is a 200V part has a maximum gate charge of 24nC compared to 63nC for the IRF740.  It has an on state resistance of 0.16 Ohms @ 10V drive versus 0.55 Ohms for the IRF740.  So it should cut the driver losses by almost 2/3s, and run cooler itself.

You can cut the gate charge in half again if you are willing to use 150V rated parts:  IPP530N15N3 G.  Gate charge on those is just 12nC which would reduce the driver work load by more than 80%.  The on resistance is under 100mOhms.


e2matrix

Quote from: Farmhand on August 20, 2014, 09:46:17 AM
OK no probs, I'm ordering some tomorrow anyway, just curious, those are measuring 0.1 Ohms. I can look with the scope and
see if there is a difference between the power resistors I was using and these from the killaWatt meters.

It's not the price of the resistors Mark it's the postage, I'll have to spend an hour tonight listing all the other parts I want as well.

Now will a Lux meter tell me if a lamp is giving off more light ? Or will it only tell me the brightness, not the amount ? I'll probably
just make one of TK's light meters. I'll need parts for that.

..
Farmhand,   If you have an Android Smartphone with a light sensor (most of them do to help auto adjust screen brightness) just grab this program of the google play store (free) Androsens (  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tritop.androsense2  )  and it will tell you the exact Lux reading from a light source.   As long as you keep the same distance and angle (I suggest about 2 feet) you can easily compare brightness levels.   The human eye needs nearly twice the Lux reading to even detect a noticeable difference in brightness so when using lights as any sort of measure you really need a way to know the actual output and this will work fairly well.   Short of creating a light integrating sphere (a fairly complex job) this is a good way to know your light output. 

Farmhand

Funny, as it happens I was fair dinkum planning to buy this Blackview-JK890-Android phone this week. I decide it was time to get
a smart phone to replace several devices for most applications, my old Motorola Razr flip phone still works like a charm, but it's
about 8 years old now I think. I'll be keeping it working and getting a new sim for the unlocked phone with a different carrier.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Big-5-5-IPS-Dual-Core-SIM-Android-4-2-3G-GPS-Mobile-Phone-Smartphone-Unlocked-/161386679896?pt=AU_Mobile_Phones&hash=item2593654e58

That phone doesn't have a light sensor by the looks of it. I would love any suggestions for a better phone about the same price
or cheaper preferably. I want the bigger type screen though, nothing smaller than 5".


Thanks.

isim

Quote from: Farmhand on August 20, 2014, 12:41:20 PM
My IRF740 mosfet doesn't get hot,
...
...
Here's a better scope shot of the fluro wave forms.
Hi, Farmland!
Well, I am searching a good SPICE model to simulate your circuit. And it is not easy to find a good model wich work at frequency near 200KHz. I need this because there is a great difference in function of the operating frequency and the power of the fluorescent Lamp.
In the mean time may be you have the scope log(CSV file) for the " better scope shot of the fluro wave forms" you juste get!
It may be interesting to compare it with the previous!
Thanks
@+

Farmhand

yeah no problem, I think this is it attached. I'll find a tutorial and get myself trained sooner or later. I need to label well any files
I want to keep.
.
I just lit up a 4 foot fluro tube using both sides and it struck up well but it's not quite at the same brightness as the one powered
by the grid in the hut here. Maybe an AC primary circuit will make 1 spike each half cycle and light the tubes better, using only one
secondary causes the tube to be lit from only one end due to the DC primary circuit and the only 1 spike per full cycle. But using
both secondaries the 4' tube strikes real easy. Input was exactly double the input for the single 1 foot tube lit from one
secondary. I need to use a voltage booster on the primary of some kind, to adjust the primary voltage to the load as well.

Adjusting the tuning of the separate sides before full conduction makes those funny looking dark rings go from the sides to the
middle or stand still or one can move and the other stand still, depends on adjustment, curious but that's all.