Bedini Transistor Problem

[citfta]

Ok glad you got it working.  So now that the rotor is spinning we need to make some adjustments.  I am also surprised that the neon is not flashing.  To get things working correctly we need to have the charge battery connected in the circuit.  You also need to have a pot connected to the base.  If this circuit is working correctly the transistor should not be getting more than a little warm.  So you need to get the diode connected from the collector to the charge battery and a pot to the base installed and then try the circuit again.  Try the pot at a low resistance setting and gradually increase the resistance and see what the rotor does.  A word of caution.  The rotor may get up to a very high speed.  Be sure the magnets are epoxied into place or held securely so they do not come flying out.  People have been injured using those small wheels when the magnets have come loose.  The bicycle wheel version turns much slower and therefore is safer to work with.

The voltage on the base of the transistor is pretty high.  That is probably why it is getting hot.  With everything working correctly your meter will probably show around .7 to .8 volts or so.

Let us know how it runs with everything connected as it should be and tuned up.

Carroll

[earthbound0729]

Update using caps - 2 each, 35 volt 2200 uF wired in series to give me 70 volts. This is my battery for the moment. When I get the time I'll add the second
real battery and use some caps as the intermediaries, since I've read that the charge batteries can actually be ruined in the long haul by the radiant energy directly discharged from the Main coils.

After a short run using my single main coil I accidentally overcharged the caps to 85+ volts. I can only imagine having them all connected! Probably the switch that would be used to discharge the caps into the battery would have to be discharged many times per second.

The Transistor on the heatsink did stay cooler this time, but I didn't really run it a long time after noticing the overcharged condition on the caps.

And again, using the 470 ohm resistor, nothing worked. Using a 220 ohm resistor it did work for a little while (but was extremely hot to touch thereafter), then the machine ran out of gas. The 100 ohm resistor, acted the same. Again, only when taking off the resistor completely did it work again.  I am not able to connect a potentiometer in place of the resistor yet. Will try to work on that over the next few days. It would have to be a very low resistance type, which doesn't seem to be easily available at a good price.

I have noticed a significant amount of torque for such a small device.

After awhile I replaced the SC5027 Transistor with my TIP3055. My Base voltage reading is lower at 0.435 volts, but the transistor did warm up consderably.


Also, thanks for the advice on the centrifugal danger with the magnets. Mine are epoxied in, but prudence is always in vogue.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, especially citfta,
earthbound

[TinselKoala]

You may find this of interest:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2yx-07r77s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyrupNcq4co

[earthbound0729]

thank you TinselKoala,

I will review these today.

earthbound

[earthbound0729]

To all involved. Thank you.

Update tonight:
I went out and got another 12 volt 18 amp hr battery as my charging battery. Then connected everything according to this schematic.

I was able to get up to a 220 ohm resistor but could not get to the 470 ohm ever. My system just wouldn't work.
I have not tried a variable resistor yet. Not enough time tonight.

Also, too, the transistor, TIP3055 heatsinked and doing great, not even getting warm. The resistor is not warm either, nor the coil wires.

All in all, fine tuning is in order. I have no scopes to test anything, but at this point in my experimentation, it is a nonissue and out of my budget range. A digital tachometer could be afforded though.

I did make voltage measurements between the run battery and the charge battery and can see that there is indeed a noticeable voltage increase compared to discharge between these 2 batteries. Now the thing that is most noticeable and interesting is that I am doing all this with only one single Main Coil wire connected. I can only guess that with all 7 connected and pumping energy into the system I should see a bigger increase in my voltage gain to the charge battery.

I did get the Neon to light once after everything was connected and running, I purposely disconnected the wire running from the charge battery positive through the diode towards the collector side of the transistor. I got a massive spike of energy that lit the neon and then totally shut down my system. It was strange, but cool. I was able to successfully get everything started again easily after that.

A couple of things in the near future.
1.  I definitely would like to build a unit with higher mass that might be able to produce more mechanical energy. One of the things I read in the Bedini manual is that increasing the diameter of the rotor (wheel) has a positive effect on energy output.
2. In the manual, getting the timing of the coil cycles is very important to maximizing energy output. TinselKoala shows that on the videos he linked earlier for me. I saw those today.
3. Also, adding in the capacitor(s) in front of the charge battery is high on my list to help protect the batteries being charged.

I am open for more suggestions and I appreciate everyone who has helped me here. It does pay to follow the instructions to the Tee.

TY,
earthbound