Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology

[gyulasun]

....

   Slider ---You are right there sitting at that frequency in a perfect sine wave.  You should be able to replicate the Doc's exact experiment.  If not then the question is --why?

---Rusty

Well, does Slider or others have the Cree LED board with the heatsink on its back side the Doc uses?  (sorry if I missed it and he has...).  What forward voltage the LEDs on the board have? do we know?  And the board was made for 110 V or 12 V operation?   I think these would be good to know for a more succesful replication.
Gyula

[NickZ]

   Guys:   Here's another new video that I just uploaded.   https://youtu.be/j0B6WyRFPsA
   
   I'll try to find an led with the metal heat sink, in the meantime, this is what I could come up with.
   I don't think that there is much difference in placing aluminum behind the led board, compared to the leds with built in heat sinks. Remember what the Doc said about MASS of the aluminum. More mass, more better...
   I will also try to find some more IN4148 diodes, as some of the ones that I'm using are the H48, which also should be compatible. But, who knows.   I had forgotten to show on the video a neon bulb, lighting up to 6 inches away from the aluminum heat sink. And I'm only running the Kacher on 1/2 it's normal 24v input. That was so it won't hurt as bad when I get hit by it's HV. I'm sure that if I left the circuit running, the leds would all go up in smoke. So, I dropped the input to 12v, and have the power on for only a minute.
   
   Gyula: If you have any more suggestions, I'm all ears. As I'm running out of things to try out.
   I think that adding a ground wire or touching the leds to make them light up better is NOT the way to go.
   It may be that the IN4148 diodes are only letting a limited amount of current through them, (150mA), so the high voltage may just be jumping them, through surface charge. You have a point there. So, the capacitive link is the only way that Docs 13 watt bulbs would be able to light. Placing the finger on the bulbs, kills that process by grounding it, instead. Me thinks... 
   Anyways, let me know what you guys think.
   

[Lidmotor]

Slider, Nick, and Guyla
  I cannot get any of my 110v led bulb arrays to light up  .    Something is amiss.  Perhaps that Cree bulb Doc has is part of this mystery???  The bulbs I have taken apart have electronic components mounted on the board like what Nick showed in his last video.  I can partially light up a 12v led array with an Al heat sink ---but that is about it.

----Lidmotor

[Slider2732]

Thanks Gyula...that was very very useful info. The circuit breakdown was the best i've read too !
I'll use exactly these parts in the build of it on a soldered board. If it carries on running like this then it would negate the thought of the jumper wires carrying some capacitance to make up for the missing one. As you explained it, the circuit should still work.
Will add the trimmer cap once confirmed that it does run when not on the breadboard.

Nick - I think your question about direction links with Lidmotor's thoughts on the Cree bulb innards. The company is known for high quality gear and presumably their LED's are top drawer quality. But wouldn't the 12V bulbs be the same as the mains ones at the LED's themselves ?
Or, is the wire-up different, more of them in parallel etc.
Anyone got a 12V bulb to compare against ?

Am currently hunting around for 4 pin oscillator modules to give Lidmotor's circuit a try  

[gyulasun]

Hi Nick,

Would like to show you a printed circuit board (that are used in some LED lamp types) that has a back side fully covered with Aluminium plate serving as a heat sink. See this link, the photo shows the component side and the back side of the LED boards: https://www.ebay.com/itm/310997850830   
or see this crescent shape board here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/301741590729   
And the Doc attached the single wire coming from the air core coil roughly to the center of the Alu surface of the LED board. As you show your arrangement with the heat sink (at video time 1:20 for instance) it cannot mimick the closeness of the Alu plate to the surface mount LEDs on the  board the Doc uses or the links show.

Another problem with your small LED panel (that has the 10 LEDs) is that the LEDs are not SMD types so their internal P-N junction can only be RF excited similarly to an SMD type only if you wrap their body up directly with Alu foil (like Lidmotor did with a single LED). Yet, the wrapping up several such cylindrical shaped LEDs is cumbersome and may have questionable results versus the flatly mounted junctions of the SMD LEDs. These latter can receive equal RF field excitations from the back plate of the LED board, that would be important I think.
I draw you attention to another capacitive RF energy coupling method the Doc used, see his earlier video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIcaDtSUT3I 
To do this, you would need a not faulty SMD LED board with the Alu back plate and then attempt to couple it carefully to your Tesla coil (notice what Doc says on the AV plug connection). Probably this setup was the start for RF exciting the SMD LEDs capacitively for him, evolving further on as he showed the SG driven variations instead of the SEC driven method. 
For your long Tesla coil, consider this 25 cm long PCB board offer and you would need to populate it with (14) SMD LEDs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302686700141  For the SMD LEDs, see here say 0.5W types and you would need to solder them onto the boards: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252485708198   Of course there are higher power SMD LED types. 

But you may find boards with already populated SMD LEDs but you need to ask the seller whether the board has the Alu back plate or not. I think where there is, then it is either mentioned or not in the title.
I think that any other additional component (IC, diode bridge, resistor) should be left out from a ready made LED lamp board and only the two wires of the series connected LED string should be brought out and close their circuit with the two 1N4148 diodes.

You can connect 2 or 3 1N4148 (or 1N914) diodes in parallel and use two such diode assembly in series for closing the LEDs circuit as needed, this increases their current handling capability for higher current demands. Your H48 types seem also good here, it is similar to the 1N4148 indeed. I do not think the high voltage is jumping them: they either conduct when AC polarity just forward biases them or do not conduct when AC polarity reverse biases them.  And when the rated forward current or reverse voltage is exceeded, they simply fail and become either a piece of wire (short circuit) or an open circuit. 

I found the ebay LED boards (I included above) only a few hours ago and the 5730 type SMD LEDs has roughly 150 mA current at 3.2 V forward voltage (roughly half a Watt input for any one such LED).  I think the LED type used on a particular LED PCB is printed on the PCB board ID number which may start with  two letters and followed by 4 digits, then a dash and also some digits: the 4 digits refer to the LED chip used.  IF you have this, then usually there are data sheets on them from which the forward voltage and current for the type can be learned. Then considering the number of LEDs on the board and any additional circuit involved, the input voltage and possible power level could be figured out.

Gyula