Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology

[gyulasun]

Hi Slider,

I found a data sheet https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/5616418939580198828 for your oscillator.
So no need to attach a tank circuit directly between the output pin and positive rail because the output is a normal TTL output. (shorting by coil wire the output to either the + or - pins may damage the internal output circuit, use capacitor in series with the output pin to remove DC level which is about half of the 5V supply voltage)

EDIT: I found this test circuit for your oscillator: https://web.archive.org/web/20061016045228/http://www.calcrystal.com/pdf/CT.pdf   

Gyula

[Slider2732]

Lidmotor - Excellent demo !
If the rated wattage on that bulb is about 4W then it would seem that your setup trounces it.
Even 18V @ 50mA is only 0.9W
By the sounds of it there is far more light output than would be expected for < 1W at that voltage. The Dollar Tree bulbs have the separate circuitboard and it would be neat to know if they work anywhere near that well on a real SEC-18.

Mildly related is that yesterday I replaced the 3rd brake light on our car. The old board had blown, so in went 4x 5mm LED's in series, with a 100ohm resistor. The amount of rubbish on the original board was unreal. I have no idea why it was packed with diodes resistors and caps, because the much simpler method works completely fine and the LED's are not stressing. I removed the internal dissipating lens thing too and the 4 lights are much clearer for any following motorist.


Gyula - Ah! many thanks, will take a look right now

[gyulasun]

Lidmotor - Excellent demo !
If the rated wattage on that bulb is about 4W then it would seem that your setup trounces it.
Even 18V @ 50mA is only 0.9W
By the sounds of it there is far more light output than would be expected for < 1W at that voltage. The Dollar Tree bulbs have the separate circuitboard and it would be neat to know if they work anywhere near that well on a real SEC-18.
...

I agree and I hope Lidmotor purchased at least two such LED lamps...      and in this case the second one could be run directly from the AC mains and brightnesses could be compared and bring to similar level by the DC input to the oscillator.  And of course the AC input to the second bulb could also be measured. 

Gyula

[Slider2732]

Aye, true enough...a lumen meter isn't needed for such a test, the eyes can do a good job of discernment. If it's close then i'm thinking it could also be useful for Lid's boat trips to Catalina Island....they make for fun vids when various devices have been shown running onboard. We're a bit short on ocean here in Oklahoma to repeat such tests lol


I just tried the test circuit from the above post and it still says 9.02MHz !
It must be a very wonky crystal, or, it could be viewed as a highly exacting and tough 9MHz source.
Quick vid here for you Gyula, 37 seconds, showing the test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHXouxpKkxw

[NickZ]

   Guys:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-13-52127MHZ-Crystal-Oscillator-Quartz-crystal-13-52127MHZ-Plug-in-crystal-HC-49S/32403283986.html

   Possibly this is the type of crystal needed. Or not?
   Gyula:  The crystal circuit that you posted shows that is uses a 5v input.  What is the expected output voltage?   Slider:  Regardless of the circuit's input voltage, the output voltages need to be at least around 20v to 25v. @13MHz, or so. To be in the Doc's ballpark. That's with NO negative rail from the SG connected. Right?
   Also, a neon bulb should be able light near the output bulb. Mine lights about to 3 inches away from the aluminum block using 12v input to my Kacher circuit. But, adding the two diodes, to complete the circuit, does not light the bulb brightly without adding an earth ground. I think that proper operation should be that no ground is needed, and the bulb should light by capacitance, using just the two diode loop. No ground, and no touching the bulb.  If not, then we are not on the right track.