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Overunity Machines Forum



Oscillator Powering 6 Modified Led bulbs

Started by SkyWatcher123, April 28, 2017, 12:06:21 AM

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magnetman12003

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on April 28, 2017, 10:57:32 AM
Hi magnetman, here is a pic of the ferrite TV flyback c-core and multi layer 24awg. magnet wire coil with clear packing tape between layers.
The air gap shown in the ferrite core is intentional.
peace love light :)
Can you tell me if the ferrite core is two sections or one.  Also what is the LENGHT of your ferrite body?
With regards to the coil itself is there an inner winding connecting to the 2K OHM resister and a separate outer winding connected to the transistor?  Are you using some sort of tube to wind the coils on then the tube is slipped over BOTH ferrite core ends where the cores can be easily slipped in and out of the tube for circuit adjustments..  That would account for your intentional AIR GAP?    I have two fly back cores I can use.  One is smaller than the other. Both are composed of twin C shaped sections.

SkyWatcher123

Hi magnetman, it is the standard joule thief circuit found all over the net, which uses a bifilar coil, just like your air core.
The ferrite c-core is 2 separate sections and the way mine is setup, it works best with air gap or c-cores even turned away from each other.
That is why i'm making this new core/coil, because with this particular setup, it seems to work best with an open core.
Each c-core length, looks to be about 1-1/2".
I used some flexible, yet fairly thin plastic, and rolled a tube around a battery that is close in size, battery can be wrapped with tape to make larger former or you can even use a somewhat thicker paper for the coil tube former.
Then tack glue the end of the coil former to itself.
Then you can start winding on top of this, i used layer of packing tape between each layer.
Then the c-core can be slid in and out easily, as long as you didn't make the coil former too tight.
Hope that helps, though, based on my tests earlier today, an open ferrite core will work just as well it seems.
peace love light


magnetman12003

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on April 29, 2017, 01:06:29 AM
Hi magnetman, it is the standard joule thief circuit found all over the net, which uses a bifilar coil, just like your air core.
The ferrite c-core is 2 separate sections and the way mine is setup, it works best with air gap or c-cores even turned away from each other.
That is why i'm making this new core/coil, because with this particular setup, it seems to work best with an open core.
Each c-core length, looks to be about 1-1/2".
I used some flexible, yet fairly thin plastic, and rolled a tube around a battery that is close in size, battery can be wrapped with tape to make larger former or you can even use a somewhat thicker paper for the coil tube former.
Then tack glue the end of the coil former to itself.
Then you can start winding on top of this, i used layer of packing tape between each layer.
Then the c-core can be slid in and out easily, as long as you didn't make the coil former too tight.
Hope that helps, though, based on my tests earlier today, an open ferrite core will work just as well it seems.
peace love light
I have just one question: Do you think two pre twisted together from the factory sections of 24 gauge wire 2.2 ohms each can be spooled onto the ferrite core as ONE and used ?  The wire is PVC coated.

SkyWatcher123

Hi magnetman, i think it might be ok, i remember lasersaber was using that kind of wire on a ferrite core and it worked well.
I would say between 1.5-2 ohms per strand would be best for the 12 volt bulbs.
Not sure how well it will work, if you do not remove the inner circuitry, though you can try and see.
I finally finished winding the triple tube ferrite core, i used 8 layers of 24awg. magnet wire and it comes out to 7.8 ohms per strand on that large core.
Unfortunately, after a few tests, it does not work the best with the 12 volt bulbs for me.
Though it works very well for the 120 volt led bulbs, the modified ones and the non-modified ones.
I think it's the fact that when we wind a ton of turns and the large core, the flyback spikes are very high and it's a much better match for the 120 volt led bulbs.
I also raised the voltage input with this larger coil/core to 19 volts, using a laptop power supply.
Most definitely a more efficient coil/core for the higher voltage bulbs, i placed 2 of the 120 volt led bulbs in the ceiling sockets from the circuit and they are blindingly bright and using 19.06 volts at 180 milliamps for 3.43 watts.
peace love light

SkyWatcher123

Hi all, finding some interesting results.
I raised the input voltage even more, 26 volts input and using this large coil and am getting even greater efficiency this way.
I went back to the 230 volt-2sc5359 NPN transistor, because of using the higher voltage led bulbs again and also using the 2 neons in series across collector and emitter.
The modified 120 volt, 40 watt equivalent led bulbs are really pumping out the light, for only 26 volts at 110 milliamps or 2.86 watts.
Again, it seems removing any and all circuitry from inside these led bulbs, gives greater light and efficiency.
My line of thinking at the moment, is along the lines of Joseph Newmans work.
Meaning, if we add more copper wire, we then raise the voltage input and can still get the same output for less or we can maintain the same input and get more output and this logic seems to be working.
Your thoughts welcome.
peace love light