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Overunity Machines Forum



Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

Started by hartiberlin, February 14, 2007, 08:30:03 PM

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0 Members and 10 Guests are viewing this topic.

hartiberlin

This is just in from Peter Lindemann:


PeterLindemann


Mike really did it! -

2007/02/23 22:05
Hi All,

John (Bedini) has figured out what Mike did. He will post the thread soon. There is only one scope shot from Mike that is important. When you understand this, it will work.

I take everything back when I said Mike didn't do it!

Mike gave you his real schematic and the scope shot when it is working properly.

Focus on his design, and approach your research systematically.

That's all I'm going to say.

John will say the rest!!!

Peter
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

MeggerMan

Hi Fesearcher,
Thank you for the update on the trigger circuit, I just caught your post about the mosfets in time for when I placed my order for some parts.
I now have all the parts including that illusive ss relay 84131100.
You may find the details I have posted below of interest to compare your circuit with.

Hi WinMotor builders,

Ok update on that solid state relay Crouzet 84131100:

INPUT
=====
Input tested using a 12V 5W bulb connected to a 12V fixed  DC power supply on the output and a variable voltage on the input.
Minimum turn on voltage:
2.8v @ 3.7mA

Also the following input currents were measured:
3.0V @ 5.45mA
3.5V @ 6.70mA
4.0V @ 7.00mA
20.0V @ 8.26mA
Removing the LED may be able to reduce the current slightly.

OUTPUT
======
Output tested using a 12V 5W bulb connected to a variable voltage DC power supply and 5V input.

Minimum operation voltage 7.1V
Also the following output currents were measured:
3.0V @ 0.17mA
3.5V @ 0.40mA
4.0V @ 6.60mA
4.5V @ 11.0mA
5.0V @ 14.0mA
5.5V @ 25.0mA
6.0V @ 30.0mA
6.5V @ 36.0mA
7.0V @ 42.0mA
7.1V @ 308.0mA (Fully on)
8.0V @ 324.0mA
12.0V @ 398.0mA

Also I noticed that once the 7.1V peak is reached the relay stays latched on until the voltage drops to zero where it is then released(electronically of course).



Update on my rotor construction:
Aluminium U-chanel is a tight fit on the 50x19x10mm cermic magnets.
So you take a piece of u-chanel and make a series of cuts at 20mm intervals (10mm at each end):


Then slot in your 6 magnets:


Bend each section and form a circle like so:


End result again:


Then make another to fit on the other ends of the magnets.

Regards
Rob

hartiberlin

Rob,
looks nice your new rotor !

Here is the UGN3132 Hall IC datasheet from
Allegro.
It is the new part for the obsolete UGN3030
from Allegro.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

hartiberlin

Corona posted:
thanks for that stephen,
looking at the datasheet it appears that hall would be a latching type like mine, as it says the operate point is at 32 gauss and release point at -20 gauss, so a N will triger it and a S will release it. This is good.

For reference, my hall is a 3 pin unit that is in the same package as the datasheet one, pulled from a cheap 12V 80mm computer fan, one from out of a computer power supply. The fan had only the hall, a couple of resisters and a couple of transistors in it, no extra ic. these are the kind of fan you want to find these halls, really dirt cheap ones. better quality ones will have ic's for stall protection and the like, and will often have the standard linear output halls in them.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

hartiberlin

John_Bedini posted;
2007/02/24 00:55
Group,
I will start here, The first thing I want you to notice is the scope shot, this is the only scope shot you need to make this motor work. My work entails the study of all components in the system and what they do. Mike's drawings are correct, and the geometry is correct. Mike's voltages are also correct for the Bedini Cole motor. What happened to Mike was sad that he was questioned to death. Mike did not really know what it was that allowed the motor to run so long, which it did. I'm not Mike, but I can see all the confusing facts here from one point of view to the other.
I'm not saying they are wrong just confusing.
You can not change anything and have the motor work the same, as everything will make a difference.
You can look at it this way, if you are building a Chevy it's a Chevy and not a Ford.
The picture that is the most important is the picture below. notice when his solid state switch is switched it drives the scope very negative in one big pulse it's as plain as day that the switch must be discharging through the coil to give the motor an extra kick and it does.
More later as I run more tests.
John
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum