Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

[devrimogun]

SPP-48
If you are using a non rechargeable battery you could notice a gradual voltage drop on the battery even if your motor was overunity due to the uneven current return of the motor during each cycle.
I suggest precharging a large capacitor ( >1000uF) to your battery voltage and place it in parallel with your battery (Observing polarity of course) The motor can stay running while you do this (and will if done correctly). With the capacitor connected you can then disconnect the battery, leaving only the capacitor to act as the battery. If the motor is under unity, the capacitor will only keep it going for a few seconds or minutes instead of weeks or months like a battery could. After all, the electric motor in a battery powered clock can run for many months even with all its energy robbing gears!

I suggest using a 1 Farad capacitor: available in most car stereo shops.

DerrickA

"After all, the electric motor in a battery powered clock can run for many months even with all its energy robbing gears!"

I disagree... The rotor of SPP-48's motor is much heavier then that of a clock motor.

@SPP-48
After you complete your experiment with your current setup and get some results
with the state of batteries what you can do is to replace the magnets with a neutral material of the same weight and run the experiment under the same conditions.

We will then know how much work is done by the magnets and coils.

Best regards,
Devrim

[SPP-48]

I bought more capacitors and some reed switches today and dis-connected the 2 x 1.2v rechargeable batteries from my motor after 66 hours. The batteries read 2.42v.

I have now added 4 more 10,000uF  50v caps in parallel. I also replaced my home-made magnetic switch with a small glass reed switch.

The original batteries are now re-connected and the motor is running again.

The fluctuating voltages at the coils while running before the modifications (at 60 hours running) were : Coil1 (trigger) = 0.1 ? 0.5 vAC  ,Coil 2 (Main) = 0.2 ? 2.6 vAC ,  Coil 3 (Induction) = 0.1 ? 0.9 vAC.

For those who have requested the construction details for the motor here they are:

Circuit is exactly as per Mike?s except that the PNP transistors are 2N3055 and NPN is MJ2955. The resistor values are from John Bedini?s circuit.

The wire for coils 1 and 3 is 30 AWG (0.25mm) and for coil 2 is 28 AWG (0.315mm).

The coil is twisted trifilar. I set up three wire rolls on a revolving wheel and twisted manually one full turn while winding one full turn. The board with the coil rotates (see photo).

I wound all three wires together for 700 turns then continued with the coil 2 wire for a total of 1074 turns (ran out of wire). Coils resistances are 154 ohms each.

The 6 magnets (see photo) are 150mm x 20mm x 6mm, 1000 gauss ferrite. I have two stacked on top of each other for a total of 1500 gauss each. They are mounted on a plastic tube with double sided tape, with insulation tape over the top for extra security. I used long magnets so as to maximise the amount of coil used for magnet interactions.

The spindle is from an old Fax machine, bearings from a video cassette recorder guide roller and flywheel from an old reel to reel record player (I never throw anything away).

There are two small neodymium magnets stuck to the flywheel with super-glue that activate a magnetic switch. (Since replaced with a reed switch).

Good luck.

SPP-48

[SPP-48]

I forgot to mention that I have no relay or hall effect sensor set-up as yet.

[McGiver30]

shouldn't you knock off the plastic fins on each end of the rotor shaft?.. that would add to air resistance.

[neptune]

Many thanks to John Bedini and colleagues for exposing what is probably a fraud. There are two things I would like to see now
     1. Mike coming back to prove his device is genuine.
     2. A copy of the electricity bill for John Berdinis home.