Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

[hartiberlin]

Here are some help tips from Mike( User HMM)

Yes 6 magnets on rotor n-s-n-s-n-s. The key to (over)unity is to time switch 1 correctly this can be done a number of ways. I will help you with all of this but first you must get your motor to run. Follow the first circuit I posted remember to wind the stator with two or more wires bifiler will work fine I use trifiler. Good Luck

The value of the cap is not critical I use 47000uf computer cap although any large electrolytic cap should do. the stator is one coil bifiler wound then split evenly where the shaft goes through.



follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1.

wind as much turns as possible try to get above 46 ohm.

the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
so 40-60 ohms sorry about that

cheers
Mike

in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound

If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

cheers

Mike

Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)

OK
Mike

@Marco I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v

[hartiberlin]

More infos from Mike:

The trigger coil is for motor timing, The hall effect is for charge timing.

I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important.


>Mike,
>Does your circuit use the exact same components like those that are from that image on >the Bedini page?

yes same as Bedini/Cole.

All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

cheers
Mike

My new relay has an LED indicator, I will give it a try.

Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole circuit

study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle

one more thing before I go

When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.

cheers mike

This link is very good
http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html
must check it out
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing


I use (28 gauge .012 in. main)

(30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)

I get a little over 40 ohms each


the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.

I must say that my stator coil is wider

Mike

[ResinRat2]

Mike,

Thank you for doing this on an open forum.

Thank you for showing the pictures, drawing, schematics, and scope shots; and thank you for allowing it to be seen by the world.

[hartiberlin]

More infos:

Thats cool mike, I was checking on this site:-

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

.3mm diam = 28gauge

.254 diam = 30 gauge


@ Stefan
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap
the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.

Mike

===============

Mike has blown up a few parts of his motor after
letting it run through the whole night !

Probably the voltage on the cap did rise too much !

He wrote then back:

ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine


I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.
This suxs

Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil.
I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.

cheers Mike

I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.


stefan,

I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again.

As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.

cheers
Mike

Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.

yes the original circuit will charge the cap

my modification charged the cap from 0v faster

yes somthing is wrong with the cap.

If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long
and spark from discharge is week.

Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030
also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

maby another big cap will take its place.

[hydrocontrol]

Quick.. Post this information in as many forums as possible.. Make copies of all this information. This looks to be the real deal.. Get the the information out before the suppresion starts.