new magnetic motor goes 2000 rpm without load 1000 rpm with load

[magnacoaster]

what you will find is the over lapping feilds will cause deflection this will cause the motor to not run or develope power as we use the switch to channel the power off and on this makes the magents more controlled.

you also want to watch the type of glue that you use as the wrong glue can have you with a hole in a wall or a body part as our unit goes 3800 rpm and with a 1 inch magnet it would kill you if it came loose.

i have posted some videos over at youtube.com under the name Magnacoastermotors for you to see running units we have yet to put the last video on line yet


Richard

[FredWalter]

you also want to watch the type of glue that you use as the wrong glue can have you with a hole in a wall or a body part as our unit goes 3800 rpm and with a 1 inch magnet it would kill you if it came loose.

Sounds like you had a bad experience?

i have posted some videos over at youtube.com under the name Magnacoastermotors for you to see running units we have yet to put the last video on line yet

Have you got a self-running unit yet? Or at least a unit that will keep it's own battery charged?

[magnacoaster]

we had a magnet go and it was parked thank god as it was a small one 10mm  it could have been bad as that unit went 32000 rpm

we have a unit here is stable and recharges battery fine we played with gearing
to get the numbers right if i get it back togeather this week ( made a new part )
i will do a new video to show this config running (i post videos on youtube.com)


Richard

[OffGrid rdnck]

Richard,

Being a windmill builder for many years now,  I can assure you that the open core coil  pm ALTERNATERS we  build and use are only about 48% efficient.   Rember also that they are ALTERNATERS, not DC generators; they are rectified to deliver dc current which is then used to charge battery banks. The reason we use them instead of a automotive alternator, is because we can build them bigger, and to produce useable power at lower rpms, plus most windmill users do not have acesss to electricity to provide a current for eciter coils, and to avoid the use of brushes and slip rings.

Looking at your contraption, if that is a standard gm alternator, UNMODIFIED, (ie PM rotor replacing the induction coils)  it also is only at best, 48% efficient in good condition. gear driven, much less than that.  It needs to turn at about 700 rpm to prduce any usable amperage at 14+ volts  and would require some HP (horse power) to do that.  one (1) HP= 748 watts, and that's on paper- 100% efficiency, something that has never been achieved with the best electric motor designs.

The windmill  type alternators we build  with permanent magnets, while you are correct saying they have very little drag when there is NO LOAD on them, have considerable drag when trying to get usable power out of them. 
An 8 foot  windmill blade, of which we use 3 (giving us about a 16 foot diameter sweep) produces about 5 hp in a 20 MPH wind.  that's about 3,700 or so watts , which in turn is used to rotate the alternator giving us at best 15-20 amps at about 18 volts, barely enough to charge up a battery bank, which in turn is hooked up to an inverter which provides  a very modest amount of power, barely enough to run a few lights, a tv, a computer, run a water pump once in a while, and other small appliances.

I don't know how you are measuring the current usages in your device, but I know that it is nowhere near unity,self running, never mind producing enough power to turn an alternator and charge a battery.  It's probably running off the battery through a reverse current through the coils.

I don't know what you spend so much money on, but I can scrape together enough salvaged parts to built a windmill for about $150 . retifiers you can either take out of scrape alternators, or buy then for a couple bucks.

Another thing I can't understand is why you need to wind a coil "in reverse". Makes no sense at all. You either wire them in series or parallel, using either the "in" or "out" wire.   It is also  not required to varnish the coils. They are already coated with a clear insulation.  It may help them stay together,(so does tape) but it sure won't prevent "heating".

I see you have spent some time reading windmill sites, so you know we cast our stators in resin to hold everything in place.  You should also have learned that nothing used in windmill design comes anywhere near unity.  All we try to do is make power using the power in the wind.

[magnacoaster]

we built a flat generator for the fact it was easy to play with we are also in the middle of getting some new wire that will give us 100% more magnatisum in the coil thus we can absorb more for power.

we are using a recifier to change from ac to dc as well as some other tricks we can compound the magnets on the motor as well as the generator.

we can also play with the output voltage and change the wave to get more power. with all the changes and all the new tech. that has been comming out. we also will be making a new controller as well as we have a new battery on the board that should allow us to charge and discharge faster.

we will also be refining the timming system as well that way we can have the unit run faster if we need to or slower if the unit needs to idle.