Controller circuit for Hilden Brandt motor needed..

[JackH]

Hello Charlie,

I wanted to say I do not live in Nigeria.

I live in Jackson, Ohio

Your guote,
"I don't know guys... just doesn't sound right if you look at the big picture - hopefully I'm wrong"

You are wrong, Just talk to dingdat he has been down to my shop.

Thanks,,,,, JackH

[dingbat]

For what it's worth, Jack lives where he says he lives.  He has visited my shop, which is also in Ohio, and I have visited him at his shop.  I saw his motor (one of them) run, and took some measurements on it (not power measurements, however.)

There is nothing fake about Jack or his motors.  It would be impossible for me to comment on whether his motors are overunity or not, because I haven't witnessed power output measurements on the motors, but I can assure you that the motor exists, and it runs.  I commented on my observations earlier in this thread.

I believe that Jack is very sincere, and has put a lot of work and money into his motors.

I do not have any stake in Jack's business or his motors.  I am just an interested person that tried to help Jack when I could.

db

[casman1969]

@Honk

That controller sure is purty..,
Having seen Jacks' motor and putting a scope on it, it should be noted that his BEMF IS in the KV range AND is the reason it works. In order to smooth it out he uses caps which leads me to the main question. How are you going to overcome these spikes in your ckt?

Jack,
Thanks for allowing me to see your motors and if you'll allow me one more visit I'll make certain to bring a dyno.
More importantly, I hope you are feeling better. Your battle is no longer with this marvelous motor and
I will pray for your speedy recovery.

@Charlie
After having attempted to slow this monster down using a shop rag and all my force, I could not. No-load draw from power supplies is 150V and 1 amp as measured across a 1 ohm resistor. Wave form measured was sawtooth so RMS will be less than the stated 1 amp. PP on sawtooth was 1V. When I loaded it down the draw did go up by approx. 20% but that is still far under any other normal motor with a similar load. Ever tried to stop a bench grinder (1/2 HP) with a shop rag on the shaft? you CAN bring it to a stop.

Honk,
Had him momentarily remove the caps from one coil and wathched the points provide quite some light show (sorry Jack, I know its a pain in the u-know-what to keep cleaning those contacts). Point is this:
This motor and a couple of others he made, all exibit extreme efficiency and extreme HV.

Good luck Jack and I'll be there when you're ready for that final test and I'm crossing my fingers on Honks controller,

Carl

[Honk]

I would please me a lot to make a functional controller for Jack.
But right now it has to wait. I'm having a full schedule at this time and I
expect to be fully occupied for at least half a year ahead.

I know about the Bemf in the KV range but this was not what killed
my controller. The Bemf is easy to handle but the other unknown
voltage feedback of more modest levels is what made the mess.
I'm sure I can handle this voltage as well and build Jack a good and
functional controller. But it will have to be postponed at this time.

/Honk

[hartiberlin]

Hi Carl and Honk,
you don?t need a controller.
A simple mechanical points switch with do a a few P600 diodes as freewheel diodes parallel to the coils
to suppress the BackEMF voltage.
In Series with the P600  freewheel diodes you can put an additional load like a 12 Volts halogen lamp,
so you "see" the current flowing through the diodes during the BackEMF.
As the diodes clamp the BackEMF to just their 0.7 Volts threshold level,
you will not see any high voltage, but only high current through these diodes.

So better put 10 x P600 in parallel to be able to drive 60 amps contineously
through them for each contact point.
So you would need just 30 x P 600 diodes for the 3 coils.

No need for any complicated controller.

You could control the timing by shifting the commutator disk( where the
point contacts are loacted on) back and forth in
an angle versus the rotor,so you could control, when the contact points are firing..

Very easy to do.

As Carl reported, the motor only consumes about less than 150 Watts, also,
when a big mechanical load of several hundred Watts is applied.

So it should be easy to couple the motor to a generator and have a selfrunning loop.

Hope this helps.

Regards,. Stefan.