Rotoverter Initial Idle Results

[esaruoho]

@ashtweth_nihili
Do you mean as shown on this web page?
http://www.peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Rotoverter
Under the heading "Power Extraction from Resonance".

ash linked you to the neon detector switch circuit.
here is anothr image of it:
http://www.scene.org/~esa/merlib/neonpeak/NeonPeakDetectorSwitchingV1.3.JPG


this coupled with the ashtweth pdf neon_new.pdf  should all help. happy journeys!

[oouthere]

@oouthere

Can you re-cap what you did and if you can put up a photo of your set-up?

It's a bit primitive compared to yours, but I'll get a picture up this weekend.

Under PM fully loaded condition, what is the amperage?

It's hard to find the best power condition as the rpms drop when the luminance increases.  I'm putting out roughly 380VAC max but it bounces so much it's hard to get a good reading.  The PM is maxing out with some sort of steady luminance at about 6 amps input.

What happens when you remove one bulb at a time from the grid?

I cannot remove bulbs since they are in series of 3-100 watts each.  I can remove a parallel set at this point only

Do you know that is many instances, you have to put the start cap back on when the Prime Mover is under load.

I would place the start cap back in when the load started to overcome the PM but only long enough to not completely stall the PM.


[/quote]

[wattsup]

@oouthere

You gave the values of your caps for the PM, but what are the voltage values of these caps.

One thing I totally overlooked on my set-up I just noticed one of the RV schematics in the document called "consolidated_knowledge.pdf" (page 14) available on the yahoo groups RVreplication web site shows a run cap of 22.5uf 1200v and a run cap of 90uf 600v whereas I have been using a variety of uf caps at 370 volts.

Also on this same schematic they are using four 370 volts caps on the generator side.

I will get these new cap values and try out my system again.

Do you have an AC clamp on ampmeter? Mine is an AC/DC type so it works great and easy to measure also off my DC alternator.

I am including the pdf file here.

[oouthere]

Only a million things to do!

My voltages are 370V for all my caps.  Sorry, still no pictures but I think I had it wired incorrectly and not tuning properly.

Just tuning the alternator with a cap bank and no load my best voltage so far is 414VAC @ 5.1 amps (2111 watts).

The PM is 121VAC @ 5.27 amps (637 watts).  Not as good as the "text book case" but looking ok for my tests.   No load test yet.

A stupid question...are you suppose to put the load in series with the cap bank or in parallel?

Thanks,

Rich

Editing in missed information:

Yes, I'm using a Sperry 40amp clamp meter for measurements.

In the "Laymen's RV STEP BY STEP" it shows their set-up for maximum voltage tuning at 11VDC (invertor) @ 30.6 amps (336.6 watts) for the PM and 165VAC @ 9.7amps (1600.5 watts).

[wattsup]

@oouthere

Only a million things to do!

My voltages are 370V for all my caps.  Sorry, still no pictures but I think I had it wired incorrectly and not tuning properly.

Just tuning the alternator with a cap bank and no load my best voltage so far is 414VAC @ 5.1 amps (2111 watts).

The PM is 121VAC @ 5.27 amps (637 watts).  Not as good as the "text book case" but looking ok for my tests.   No load test yet.

A stupid question...are you suppose to put the load in series with the cap bank or in parallel?

Thanks,

Rich

The capacitor bank should be one side of caps in series. One side of switches in series, One side of switches goes to each cap. You connect L3 to the cap series and L1 to the switch series.

How did you check the amperage of your alternator without a load?

The load should be in parallel to the caps.

I just purchased another inverter off of Ebay so I can start doing some more testing on a stand-alone loop system.

Keep on.

wattsup