Experimenting with Double Helix HHO

[Draco Rylos]

wow,  Interesting use of a couple of metal hose clamps dlwammo. I never would have thought of it myself. Watching videos on youtube, I came to realize that for some reason, the edge is where the current seems to flow instead of through the middle. It may be because of the materials that you used for your double helix.  The way that the hose clamps are made, there is no way for power to go through the centers of the helixes. I think the reason why hydrogen is coming from the negative side is because of the natural state of hydrogen is positive whereas the natural state of oxygen is negative.  That's just me trying to remember high school chem. I'm not really sure, but I'm sure someone like Ironhead, Hartiburton or someone that has more experience could explain it to you. Thats my 2 cents.


Edit: Guys would you tell me if I'm wrong here. I don't want to give the newbie bad information

[rapttor]

I had an idea yesterday, I picked up what I thought were two ss springs, cut the end off each spring then basically screw them together, perfect spacing, no guess work.
I then used Heat Shrink on either end to hold them stable.

One problem, they were not SS springs, and I think they were too thick in diameter, not the spring coil dia. but the guage of wire it's made from. I'd say the one I used had 1/8 maybe. I'd use 1/16 guage next time, and make sure it's at least 304...

Decent production, would have been better if it was ss and thiner guage I believe.
input was 12V @ 2.5 - 3.5 amps, yeah it was low current.

-rapttor

[europeanhillbilly]

Nice to see some more experimenters working on this

Well, I got some news:

1) Got a sealed container (proofed non-leaking under water), so I can run the output through a hose through a bubbler!

2) Got a 24V 20A power supply that can be regulated between 22.5 and 29.5 volts or something.


So, my findings are:
1) At 11.2V and 1.3 Amp, I can expect a bubble every second. The water merely gets warmer, can run for hours I'd say.
2) At 22.5V (not measured, I trust the power supply - need another meter), it's pulling at least 3.3 Amps. Going up to 5 Amps when I turn the voltage up. Bubbles come quicker, but not outrageously. Water gets hot after a while, didn't want it to boil.

Conclusion: A helix with such small spacing is not fit for higher voltages. It's just not enough surface area.

Low wattage with moderate output vs. high wattage with a little more output (but not alot).

I'm far away from the output Fordenergys bubbler suggests!

I really need an additional volt meter to see what the higher voltage does to the potential that's staying in the water afterwards.


Anyways, I feel a little stuck with this particular helix at the moment. So, guess what? I'll get some more SS strips, and make kind of a double double helix. A bigger double helix fitting over a smaller one, with parallel turns. This time with a little more spacing.
The result should be twice as much edges of course, plus the opposing surfaces of the inner and outer helix.
Of course this could harm the concept of having edges, but well... we'll see.

Btw, those strips of my current helix are roughly equivalent to the area of a 3x3inch plate EACH (so 2x 3x3inch worth of material).

[dlwammo]

Here's the video for the "HHO"se Clamp Double-Helix I promised.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=mM8xEVmcuys

I'll try and get it's even more "Twisted Sister" on tomorrow....

Dan

[ZeroFossilFuel]

You know what really intrigues me? How two plates of the exact same material can become molecularly polarized in a solution of electrolyte by applying a voltage so that, once voltage is removed, a residual charge remains as if you had dissimilar metals in solution.