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Overunity Machines Forum



Stanley Meyer replication with low input power

Started by hartiberlin, August 18, 2007, 04:39:57 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 14 Guests are viewing this topic.

Spewing

my diodes are rated 1000 volts and 30 amps. yet over a amp at 12 volts they get hot. i can understand this because my mosfet runs cool when on a 12 volt battery, but when that 12 volts drops to 11 the mosfet will start heating very quickly. thats why i keep a full charge on my battery.

do any of you know of a diode that is rated at 12 to 20 volts " the voltage varies comming from the alternator", and 18 amps or so that will really supply 18 amps without getting hot??? that would be awsome, i would notepad the part number till i got the money to get them.

RunningBare

If 1000 volt 30 amp diodes are getting hot then the BEMF from the alternator must be higher than a 1000 volts, the volts rating for a diode is its reverse voltage handling capability, if the voltage is higher than the diodes rated voltage then the amps will not matter much because the voltage is going through the diode in reverse heating up the pn junction, even a few milliamps at say 1500 volts is going to be a lot of energy at the diodes pn junction.
If you have a multimeter capable of reading up to 2000 volts, try measuring the voltage at the diodes with respect to the point where the three coils meet.
Quote from: Spewing on October 01, 2007, 02:09:58 PM
my diodes are rated 1000 volts and 30 amps. yet over a amp at 12 volts they get hot. i can understand this because my mosfet runs cool when on a 12 volt battery, but when that 12 volts drops to 11 the mosfet will start heating very quickly. thats why i keep a full charge on my battery.

do any of you know of a diode that is rated at 12 to 20 volts " the voltage varies comming from the alternator", and 18 amps or so that will really supply 18 amps without getting hot??? that would be awsome, i would notepad the part number till i got the money to get them.

Spewing

oh lord, something else i will have to figure out. by any chance you think we should start a new thread in a proper place just to work on getting this system up to par? if so im me somewhere.

i love my alternator lol

saintpoida

i have started conditioning and after 1 run through of the 7 steps (i missed step 7 cause it was too much effort for that amount of time) my inner tubes are already going white.

Fair bit of brown stuff gets generated in the early steps but less and less as amps go up or maybe its time
its run for goes down i dunno, anyway

I think alot of the brown stuff sediments to the bottom as the bottom of my tubes are getting pretty
dirty, i think that i am gonna have to pull it all apart to clean them which is gonna be a hassle but im
gonna run the cycle a few more times first.

On another note, i just remembered when watching a video on tap water vs purified water he used an
electrolyzer to seperate the water and said the brown muck in tap water was all the impurities, when he
did it with purified water there was almost none, what i find interesting is if that was the case then why after
conditioning the tubes would the brown stuff stop being made if it was related to the water???

gculpex

In other threads they said it was from impurities on the steel( grease. oil).
I wonder about the chlorine that's added to tap water and how this
affects the results.