Non RV generators coupled to the RV prime mover

[hansvonlieven]

G'day Linda,

Just ask Robert Jackson, he knows where to find them. Pity he does not tell us where we can buy one.

Hans von Lieven

[robertjackson]

Hans, Please let it go let's not judge or criticize anymore it is non productive. I don' t want to compete against you.  This negativity drains me. Robert Jackson

[jjbeamish]

mramos
I am not sure if you tried what I had suggested but if you did not then you can not say it does not work based on what you posted you tried with your fan. Throwing random caps at something does not do anything. You had stated you used a ?standard? cap value you thought most RV?s used. I have not read this whole thread to see if you tried my advise or not. Reading your last post I would guess you have not. You need to find the proper cap value for your particular motor in a minimum of .5uf steps. There is not a universal cap value. Power savings with these systems is the first step. Posting something does not work when you essentially tried nothing. I posted what I have done and it works every time on the motors I have tried.

Unless you tried a cap bank, you are writing the whole thing off without trying it. Like the guy who built ?Phil?s circuit?, he altered it then said it did not work.  How do you guys expect to build anything that ?works? if you can not build it the way  the ?inventor? of something said to do it?

As far as the RV:
I think many people have the wrong idea what the intentions of this machine is for and what it is supposed to do. Just like people building the Bedini ssg. Bedini said from the beginning it was not supposed to be more then a one to one charger, plus mechanical. People don?t get OU from it then write it off. Hector and most information I have studied, the RV is a progressive system. First, get a three phase motor to run on 120vac single phase. Adjust for lowest power consumption. Second, Hook up an equivalent motor one to one. Get it to generate at it?s maximal VxA without bogging down the prime mover. For both of these steps you NEED a switch able cap bank for each motor. You have to adjust BOTH cap banks as if it was ONE unit. Then you should have a VIRTUAL power in the alternator of 10 times (or more) then the REAL power input. A magnet will dance 4? or more from the alternator. That?s it. Now, the part that takes work is to take the power off the alternator without affecting the resonance. In other words, non reflective to the source. You can do this at peak voltage 0 current or maximal current 0 voltage. Rectify and dump into caps and use it for what ever you want.

OR you put a load on the alternator. MATCH the source to the load or load to the source. If you have 400vac @ 7.5 amps (=3000 watts Virtual) you need a load rated at 3000 watts. Fire up the RV and get it generating, flip the switch and the light bulbs come on. The RV does not even know the bulbs are there.

I know, the Humdingers here are going to tear me a new a new one. That?s OK. I know what I have seen on my work bench. Most people are so stuck that this stuff does not work they don?t even try (properly). RV is a tool for learning how and what radiant energy is per Hector. All of the neon circuits, Phil?s circuits, inverters etc etc are to go beyond what the RV was intended for. If you can not do the basics, how can you advance? Just having an RV plugged in and running, no alternator, my electric bill has dropped by 25%.
Jason

[linda933]

Jason,

You say that just by having an RV motor plugged in (I assume 24/7) you cut your electric bill by 25%.  Are you telling us that the RV with no alternator attached is supplying back more electricity to your local circuit than it uses or have you coincidentally turned off your furnace and skipped laundry and bathing this month? 

Also, you talk about running 3KW of lamps with the RV "not even knowing the bulbs are there".  Are you saying the RV draws nothing or very much less than 3KW while doing this?  Are these things you have done yourself or just heard others claim?

These are pretty astounding claims.  How about some video and some good technical details?  First clarify exactly what you are claiming, please.  Then show us how you did it, if you can.  That would get a lot more interest than just talk.  Anyone can make bold claims; it's demonstrating them that counts!

Linda

[armagdn03]

This is probably one of the more simple OU replications you can do...........if you realize how it works.

All this is in its simplest form is a tuned parallel LC tank circuit, consisting of only two components, a capacitor, and an inductive coil (the motor)

We all know that when an ac signal goes through a capacitor, the capacitor provides some resistance, the higher the frequency, the less resistance.

Inversely (litterally) a coil provides resistance to an ac signal, but the resistance gets Higher when the frequency increases.

when you get these two "resistances" to match, (look up inductive and capacitive reactance or impedance) then you have a condition where the theoretical impedance is infinite. This means that you have very little power flowing through the circuit to keep it in oscillation.  This is why you cannot just throw any old cap in there.........well actually you could, but then you need to vary your frequency until you find the right one, but if you want it to run off of a set frequency, and you have a set inductor, then the only variable you have to play with is your capacitive value, and it would be a miricle indeed if you happened to throw the right one on. If I were you I would buy an inductance meter, measure the inductance of your motor, visit this website....         

http://www.lautsprechershop.de/tools/index_en.htm?/tools/t_p_schwingkreis_en.htm

input your inductance, and find out what capacitor will give you resonance at 60hz

not so hard.......(says the guy who has never built one, but is very familiar with the concept and its application in other OU devices.)