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Overunity Machines Forum



Circuit setups for pulse motors

Started by Nastrand2000, September 16, 2007, 10:46:33 PM

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0 Members and 58 Guests are viewing this topic.

casman1969

For those of you who are still working on pulse motors I'd like to give you a source for some really great reed switches. Gopher Electronics (ph 651-490-4900). They have switches that will do 3A continuous and 6A peak surge. These are working out GREAT for me in place of the dreaded commutator. Allow for faster recharging of Bedini style motors when dumping voltage to a battery from a cap. Have charged 2-9AH batteries from 12.4 to 13.3 and am cuurently charging what I think is a bad 400MAH battery which started at 11.35 and after 1hr is up to 11.84. Drive battery is recharging itself and started yesterday morning at 12.95 and is now down to 12.8. I was'nt trying to do the Bedini thing but it looks more and more like that's where this pulse motor is heading. By the way, my drive battery is another 9AH. Will swap it out when It gets down to 12.5 or so. Will have charged 3 before that happens.

Carl

capthook

I?m trying to optimize pickup/generator coil design, construction and implementation.
After days/weeks reading and experimenting I?m still unsure what approach to use.

I?ve got a CDR rotor with (6) 0.75" Diameter x 0.25" Thick NdFeB N42Grade N42, BrMax: 13200 gauss Disc Magnets arranged N/S/N/S/N/S.  The rotor is spun at a set 120 RMP. Generator coils are placed on both sides of the rotor - like a Muller generator.  I want to generate as much output as possible ? irrespective of the drive aspect (excluding air gap) and send to a battery.

Generator coil considerations:
1)  Core: 
a)  Material:  Hex bolt? (head out or in?)  Welding rods?  Hoptoads wall anchor sheaths idea? (I haven?t tried this yet ? anyone? )  Iron filings with resin?  ?Black sand??(exotic ? where to find?)  Shotgun shot? Air?
b) Size:  Half the diameter of the windings?  Same height as windings ? or double?

2) Windings:
a) Single ? bifilar?
b) Wire size:  #26 AWG ? good balance of resistance/ampturns/voltage/current?
c) # of turns:  100?  350?  1000?  2000?
d) Size:  Twice the width of the magnets - same?  Same height as width?  Ideal dimensions?  Cone shaped?
e) Wrapping:  masking tape every layer or only 1 on the core?  Wrap with finished coil with electrical tape?

3) Arrangment (horizontal):
a) # of coils:  As many as possible?  Same # as # of magnets?  Twice?  Half?
b) Ideal spacing:  must have ?x? inches between them?  Pack them together as tight as possible without touching?

4) Circuit:
a) Coil connections:  All in series for voltage?  In parallel pairs for amps?
b) Full bridge rectifier:  All coils in series connected as a connection to rectifier?  Rectifier size/type?
c) Capacitor:  Place between rectifier and load (battery) for smoothing?  Size?  Send to load continuously, when half full, full?  How to control this?
d) Transistors?
e) Diodes?
f) Optical timing:  usage/parts (why aren't more people using this rather than hall/reed switches?)

There are ton of great info and people here in the forums.  I look forward to any/all responses and assistance.  I will update the post that follows this with solutions I will implement.

Thanks!   

CH

capthook

Generator design implementations.  Answers to be updated as they are determined.  Please add to/suggest/discuss/dispute results.

1)  Core: 
a)  Material: Quote from Hoptoad: "I can't overstate the positive aspects of the "Alloy" nature of the sheaths. When comparing like for like with ordinary soft iron which I did in later experiments, it became very obvious that the huge gain in voltage and current availability was due to the nature of the core material. (The shape still matters - see updates on my site)"
b) Size:  Muller design: 1 to 1 ratio to magnet.  1" diameter magnet = 1" diameter core.  Seems big...  Implementing .5 - 1 ratio.  A .25 - 1 suggested by Casman - will try that to.

2) Windings:
a)
b) Wire size: 
c) # of turns: 
d) Size: 
e) Wrapping: 

3) Arrangement (horizontal):
a) # of coils:
b) Ideal spacing: Muller design: Same as magnet diameter. ie: 1" magnet = 1" spacing

4) Circuit:
a) Coil connections:
b) Full bridge rectifier:  Quote found from Ren: "I then wired each coil to each other and only ran them through one bridge and found slightly better results."
    I purchased (2) Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers from Radio Shack:  1.4A, 100V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier
    Model: 276-1152   $1.59 each
c) Capacitor:  I purchased from Radio Shack: 1000uF 35w part 272-1032
d) Transistors?
e) Diodes?


CH

capthook

Quote: Nastrand2000 "It is an air coil run through a full wave bridge rectifier. I don't how many turns, however it is bifilar wound 24 gauge and 2 inch in diameter by 3/4 inch thick."

Jason, you have made alot of coils.  Everything I've read would indicate (for my application) an air coil would result in the lowest current production.  If I understand your application - you are trying to minimize rotor drag.  Do you have comparsions between an air core and an iron core? (for generation)

Also - a 2" diameter by 3/4" thick coil is short and fat - rather than most builds I've seen using taller/skinner ones.  It seems to me short and fat would work better for pick up coils.  Is that your experience?

You are using bifilar - I guess to implement pulse/pickup in same coil.  Would bifilar offer advantages to a coil used only for generation?  Why/why not?
- - -
Ren - you have got a SWEET setup going!  I would love to hear some advice from you  :D

hoptoad

Quote from: casman1969 on March 04, 2008, 01:28:01 PM
Honk,
Hope your HHO project is going well...
Changed up a few things here and finally see some positive progress.
1. Changed drive to relays. Two, switching two Adams style coils (bifilar) at different times.
2. 3A reed switches to adjust pulses on coils.
3. Center tap on coils (both) is feeding a 10K uf 60V cap which, by use of another 3A reed switch, is feeding back to the primary battery through a 5W 2ohm resistor. Have been using another coil (not Adams style) to charge a 47K uf cap which in turn gives the relays switching power.
4. Draw on input is +/- 250MA
5. Feed back to battery is pulsing over 500MA
6. All magnets (12) are north facing out.
7. Two small magnets @ 180 degrees on the inside close to hub are pulsing the reed to feed current back to battery. Started with a freshly charged battery which sat for a day and started at 12.95V
8. After 5 hours I am watching the digital oscope bounce between 12.97 and 12.93 staying in the 12.94 range on average.

Next step will be to add my third drive coil and take the center tap voltage off of it as well and further charge the cap.

One coil needs 24V to operate O.K. but with two alternately pulsed coils I can use a simple 12V
HR9-12 UPS battery. Very stable and has some torque.
Took the relays out of some old UPS units.
Timing is good, pulsed recharge is good, now to further refine before putting on bigger wheel. Current wheel is only 23".
Bottom line is this.., Very high efficiency with more power to capture.
:o......... ;)