Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[MW383]

Quick update to previous winding experiments. Ranking of magnetic field strength better clarified.

1) multiple layers : individual but all wired parallel
2) multiple layers : all one winding ; down-up-down-etc... same clockwise (or counter clockwise turn direction) maintained for each layer. Just pick one and stay consistent.
3) multiple layers : all one winding ; down-external lead back up-down-etc... This is wasteful when compared to #2 because of added resistance. It also makes a messy construction.
4) multiple layers ; all one winding ; down-up-down-etc... alternate winding direction clockwise-counter clockwise-clockwise-etc... Worst thing you can do because of cancellations occurring.

So bottom line is stick with universal wind direction. There is also the option for parallelism but requires some planning to make it efficient. In the Stubblefield outlined construction, this will not work very well if one is after both maximum efficiency and a clean construction. One can still parallelize and keep clean construction but it would result in added resistance and thus voltaic inefficiencies.

Different constructions can be accomplished which can 100% optimize parallelism but this will have to wait until I get Stubblefield's version working first.

The nice thing about original construction is that magnetic field is present in the primary windings due to the iron wire. A flux path from core through iron windings also probably exists. So it would seem that Stubblefield was making best possible use of an otherwise weak voltaic system at least when it came down to magnetic field creation.

Cloth wire update. I have recieved samples of both 16 and 18ga cotton covered wires. Bottom line = they will work perfectly. I have asked manufacturer to quote 16ga bare copper wire covered in cotton. I was told to prepare for higher cost and minimum order quantities though because this is not a standard configuration for them. Preliminary estimate on cost is hurtful....$0.50/ft. Maybe this can improve when official quote generated. On the plus side, I did create some windings with cotton wire sample and bare iron, the result was a 100% totally clean construction. Vastly superior to the b-s I was doing before. Winding is also super easy and fast to do. The adhesive used was nothing like I was expecting. It is more of a weak starch that blanches right out when made wet. No integrity loss to the cotton noted by doing this.

Today I will be investigating various experiments in process outside. Wild and crazy stuff I will report on at some other time.

[protonmom]

@all:
I think I have found a source for both cotton and silk tubing that is just the right size for our wires.  I will let you know as soon as it gets in.

[MW383]

So I just returned from checking on some of the outdoor stuff. Most of what I am doing out there currently is non-Stubblefield or earth battery related. I plan on possibly starting a new thread for this stuff as it is fairly half baked in nature.

Anyway, I checked on some of my original pipe batteries I put in several weeks ago when I started this little earth battery adventure. Obviously the copper pipe - zinc nail deal is fairly low tech compared to a Stubblefield. So in measuring DCV it is 0.75. There is a measureable ACV of 1.5. So obviously there is some frequency at play here. It also seems sensible that DC would be 1/2 of AC because I am only seeing 1/2 the waveform with this measurement. Unfortunately I did not have my frequency measuring multimeter so could not see what it actually was. It seems to be there none the less.

So what is the deal here and what similar measurements have others observed here? Have any conclusions been made?

In checking my original single layer Stubblefield, it was essentially a goner. We have had rains for weeks now and the original paper towel insulation strategy didn't make it. I didn't think it would but put it in the ground anyway. The iron windings on the battery were absolutely and significantly rusted. I almost tend to think that if one of these batteries was sitting idle for extended periods that this would always happen to the iron. I wouldn't expect an issue if current were flowing on a constant basis. Has anyone pulled up long term Stubblefields out of the ground and looked at iron windings?

I am now resuming some indoor experiments in preperation for the official Stubblefield full scale unit I am in process on.

In regards to core, I used 16ga annealed wire pieces, straightened them out, hung them all in the air by a piece of horizontal tape, and spray painted them. It was a 2 minute affair. Once dried overnight, removed each piece from the tape, reversed vertically and painted just the bottoms (that were in contact with tape for 1st painting operation).

I will get bundled and take to work for official diaelectric measurements. There is no way in hell there will be electrical contact between these rods that have been painted provided I am careful during bundling process.

Protonmom, I am interested in costing for your wire source. My source has the right stuff but is looking to be quite expensive.

Next question; has anyone had success with oscillating the primary coil on their Stubblefield batteries? I'll have a jim-dandy full sized battery built soon but it will be useless if I can't pulse the magnetic field (via primary activation).

So has anyone thought about how Stubblefield's batteries picked up the extra power? Accounts state that the batteries in a static state were essentially 1 watt. This is a believable number based on all of our own replications. Yet in operation, this 1 watt increased in magnitudes according to the urban legend lore. Legend's also state that slightly higher voltages reported in Cu-Fe system itself. This leads me to believe that earth energy entering his system was definitely getting in through the voltaics. This is cool because with water being a near useless electrolyte, any additional help is appreciated. Voltage should top out due to the chemistry but amperage would be wide open to increase limited by wire size and more than likely related to how much magnetic field present.

Let's here some other theories here.

Additionally - think about magnetic field aspects. Diagram shows aligned iron windings from core out to secondary. Would this not be a more organized flux path than something wild wound in which iron's did not match up? I once stated to alternate Fe to Copper from core outwards. I made this from an electrochemical standpoint. I am thinking this to be incorrect now and that keeping everything aligned (iron) has a purpose. This will be a challenge to execute but I am going to do precisely this on my in process full scale unit.

Let's here some theories here too.

[bigred262626]

We worked on that for a long time.
I cannot give you the recipe.
The patent US#600,457 is somewhere here and it describes it pretty well.
Use this site to get a copy of it
http://www.pat2pdf.org/

It is 2 wires -1 copper and 1 iron separated by a cloth, wrapped on a soft iron core.
Soft means that it drops its magnetization immediately when the magnetic influence is gone.
I don't think any of us were able to be sure we had soft iron. (That may have been our only  problem.
Welding rods are soft.I think if you forge some iron and hit the end to a point and let it cool slowly you will have a soft iron stake.
I think the date for joe's introduction which included the patent is around feb of 2008, so you could read a few pages from around then.

no freepow lunch yet... sorry 

jeanna

Jeanna,

I have been reading this forum for some time now, but I still haven't caught up to page 273 yet.  LOL!  When I read your post, I was just curious if anyone had tried a piece of structural rebar yet.  It is widely available, (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) and I believe it is about as soft as any Iron rod could be.  It's just a suggestion, and might have already been mentioned before, and if so, I apologize. 

For now I will go back to reading, and hopefully I can contribute something meaningful when I catch up.  At the pace I am going, it will be a while.  LOL!

From what I have read, you guys are doing a great job working through the details.  Good luck, and I hope I can join you on your quest soon.

Take Care,
Jimmy

[jeanna]

... I was just curious if anyone had tried a piece of structural rebar yet.  It is widely available, (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) and I believe it is about as soft as any Iron rod could be.


Take Care,
Jimmy

Hi bigred,
First may I say WELCOME

I do not think anyone has used rebar. Unless, maybe protonmom has. I forget now.
I tried a very plain stake before I knew what soft iron meant , but it is not as soft as rebar.

The only real drawback to rebar is that it has ridges which would serve disserve to direct the first layer of wire to follow the ridges.
I have a piece of rebar,  ( and I also have a piece of weldable iron but that was no better than the spike.) I agree with you and if you can get around the ridges or even if you cannot, please give it a try and report.

I am leaning towards the welding rods because even though they have copper around them, they are soft with a smooth surface.

It is funny how much that was basic in 1900 has been replaced, effectively eliminating the plain and basic.

jeanna