Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[tishatang]

@electricme
I just took a look at your heating experience with wanting DC out of a AC input.  I think it is related to Rosemary Ainslie patent in a certain way.  I have not looked at that thread for a long time.  It is too technical for me.  I am a simple guy.  I am old school.  It was about vacuum tubes not solid state.  Over there they are using solid state switching devices to control pulse width to the circuit.  The circuit rebounds with excessive heat, supposedly.  The problem is measuring feeble inputs and outputs dealing with higher hertz than normal 50 hz.

You have the advantage of no fancy equipment or triggering needed.  The heat is unexpected becuase on the face of it, you are only using half the energy  via a diode.  If you only have half going in, it should run cooler, you would think?

This may be what is happening?  Only a guess from a layman's point of view.  In normal mode the transformer gets a full cycle input.  There is some heat in the core from hysteresis.   But the core is not doing any work.  It is coasting.  The hyst. currents circle one way and then the other following the the ups and downs of a normal AC input.  Now, what happens when you only put in the upswing?  Instead of coasting, energy is drawn out of the core to supply the downward part of the cycle.  It is made to fill in the missing part.  It pulls energy out of the core to supply the backwards flow of current.  But, it may not be there for free.  Since the core is depleted from this action, the next cycle may have to recharge the core?

So, maybe there is no savings in power input.  Perhaps it is compensating by taking more power in on the half cycle?  To test, no fancy equipment needed.  Get a wattmeter, maybe an old one from local utility.  I bought one for $5 once.  Hook it to you wall outlet.  Then to a variac transformer to reduce voltage to the test transformer.  We want the test transformer to run hot but not burn up.

Run the setup with no diode for a long enough period to get a reading on the watt meter.  Then install the diode and run the setup for the same period and see what the wattmeter says.  Remember to put a small load on the test transformer.  The only thing you are going to change is the diode.  Since the wattmeter is designed to work on your 50 hz, there can be no error in reading power consumed by meters not designed to work on high hz.  This should give a rough idea of efficiency.

Anyway, my 2 cents.

[electricme]

tishatang,

I just got around to seeing your post here about a Wattmeter, I'm in the middle of making a bat file to recover the 3 main windows boot files.

Now, do you mean the watt meter that is connected all the time to the house power supply?
Like this one below? (I got 3 of em)
or a wattmeter as used in RF
or use a amp meter.

BTW, I think I filled up your mail box, the Stubblefield stuff you wanted I found and sent it to you late last night.

jim

[tishatang]

Jim
Yes, that is the wattmeter.  It measures power consumed.  Mount it on a board to hold it vertical like it would be on your house fuse panel.  Have a big hole to give access to the connectors on the back.    I think there are four bladed copper connectors here in the US.  One pair for each side of the 240 volt supply.  In Australia there might only be two because everything is 240, not 120 on one leg and 120 on another leg.  Maybe also a ground connector? Everything on your experiment will go through this meter.  You might have to let it run 24 hours to get an accurate reading on the counter dial?  If you don't have a variac voltage reducing transformer, then use power resistors to drop the voltage so the diode config does not melt fuse link.  Run it Hot but not melting.  Let it run so the meter counts one digit accurately.  Then make note of the time running.

Then remove the diode and let the setup run for the same time.  Make note of the meter digits.  Is it less than the diode setup?  If yes, then setup is pulling extra power in on the half cycle of the diode to replenish the core.  If it is more, then you have OU.  If it is equal, you have OU because you just got a bunch of free heat.  Just a quick check to what you have.  If it passes this test, than everyone should replicate this to see if something is being overlooked. 

Yes, I got your email re Stubblefield notes, Thanks.  I am going to post a comment on your engine thread.
Chris

[tishatang]

Jim
I forgot the wattmeter has a wheel that spins.  No need to wait a long time to count digits.  If they experiment has low power consumption, just see how long it take for the wheel to complete one revolution.  This will compare diode or no diode much quicker.

[tishatang]

Jim
I have another thought about the heating experiment.  I looked at your circuit again and you show the secondary open, no load.  Did this heating take place with the secondary unconnected?  If so, there is always the possibility that somehow this circuit pulls in energy from the aether through the open wires.  You did not close the loop in Bedini speak.

If heat occurs with no load, do this.  Place a very light load like a 1 megohm resistor across the secondary ouput as a load.  This closes the loop.  If the heating is much less, there is the chance that the exra heat comes from the aether thru the open leads of the output?