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Overunity Machines Forum



Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

Started by Localjoe, October 19, 2007, 02:42:39 PM

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0 Members and 182 Guests are viewing this topic.

Pardon

Hello all
I have made many tests today after adding a secondary to my coil. so far i have nothing to report that is of any use but it has failed. i can not see any voltage on the secondary. it may be to large of wire size and not long enough. it about 25 feet long.

going back to the ls video. this has been bugging me all day. i have done everything i can do to figure out how to get a voltage across a wire to display on my meter. without adding some kind of resistance, or increase of power. so i am thinking if he did not add anything to the coil but he can display a meter reading either volts or amps. then something in the coil it self is making this change. so i am asking is this one of the stublefield secrets of the coil.

also i am thinking my center bolt may not be as soft as i thought it was. and that may be why i do not have very good readings.

one of the positive things i found out was , if i pulse the coil then stop pulsing it the voltage stays in the coil and slowly gos down taking about a minute to get back to normal. so it is acting kinda like a cap.

wintermuteai1

@Pardon:
Try something: apply current to the inner wires with say a battery, and then connect the 5&6 wires(outer) together and remove external current. With the outer wires still connected test the inner wires with your meter. Also perhaps try the opposite, apply current to the outer wires with the two inner wires connected and test the outer wires with your meter. Just curious.

electricme

@ LaserSaber,

Would this be one way to hook up your coil to produce more energy? ;)

jim
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

conradelektro

Stubblefield Coil, Insulating Material

In patent US600457 Stubblefield describes four insulating materials (see attached snapshot from the patent):

1) Insulating material 8: each coil or layer of the windings is separated from the adjacent coils or layers by an interposed layer of cloth or equivalent  insulating material 8

2) Insulating material 9: a similar layer of insulating material 9 also surrounds the longitudinal core-piece 1 to insulate from this core piece the innermost coil or layer of the windings

3) Protective covering 14:  the solenoid or secondary coil 12 is of an ordinary construction, comprising a wire closely wound into a coil of any desired size on an ordinary spool 13 and in cased within a protective covering 14 of mica, celluloid, or equivalent material

4) Insulating material 15:  the spool 13 of the solenoid or secondary coil may be conveniently secured directly on the exterior of the coil body 4 between the heads 3 with a suitable layer or wrapping of insulating material 15, interposed between the spool and the body 4

Interpretation of the insulating materials used by Stubblefield in modern terms:

a) The insulating material 8 is the cotton cloth between the layers of the bifilar primary and the cotton cover around the copper wire. This cotton is not really an insulator, rather a conduit for water and ions for the galvanic reaction. Remember, the Stubblefield coil is supposed to be damp or wet.

b) The insulating material 9 around the core should not automatically be seen as cotton too. One could argue that the core should be indeed insulated, because one does not want a galvanic reaction between the copper wire and the core, only between the copper wire and the iron wire. One should try to completely insulate the core (including the parts sticking out through the wooden disks) with some lacquer (paint) or plastic material (e.g. shrink wrap).

c) The protective covering 14 (mica, celluloid or equivalent material) of the secondary would be the modern lacquer around the magnet wire used for the secondary, called enameled copper wire. The secondary is therefore also completely insulated.

d) The wrapping of insulating material 15 between the secondary and the bifilar primary should also be really insulating, may be one uses some plastic sheet. But this is not very important because the enameled copper wire of the secondary is insulated by its lacquer.

Subblefield coil as a resonator (see attached drawing):

Imagine a very crude switch (e.g. a pointed steel nail tipped to a little steel plate). This crude switch will bounce like wild and has some similarity to a spark gap (a spark gap was the usual switching element in those days, they did not have transistors).

Connect a steel nail witch a piece of wire to the outer copper wire of the primary coil and a little steel plate with a piece of wire to the inner iron wire of the primary coil. The nail should be insulated with some tape near the head so that you can touch it without being part of the circuit (you would be a capacitance). By touching the steel plate with the tip of the nail you can now switch the coil be hand.

Imagine doing Morse code with your nail on the little steel plate. Whenever you shortly touch the steel plate with the nail tip a few sharp spikes will be produced and these spikes will ring the primary, which in turn rings the secondary, which should then do a few spikes with a higher amplitude. It will be like striking a bell with a hammer (the bell is the secondary and the hammer is the primary switched by your nail). It is also a replication of a telegraph as used in those times, the ends from the secondary leading to a receiver which has a coil to reproduce the Morse code as magnetic pulses driving a lever.

One has to experiment to find out which ends of the primary coil have to be switched by hand with the nail (outer copper to outer iron, or outer iron to inner copper) and what to do with the free ends of the primary coil. One could put a capacitor (with Pico Farads or Nano Farads) on the free ends if one speculates that the primary should ring a few times when shortened by hand with the nail.

Greetings, Conrad

lasersaber

Here is a drawing showing how I made my coil.  I will post a drawing showing how to hook it up later.  I got to get on a plan now!

I will post much more when I have the time.