Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[electricme]

@ all,

I bought the PVC items I needed to support the coil while I unroll the turns to find out further secrets in it's manufacture, and another secret has unfolded in the process.
While I was handling the coil, another bit fell off the outside of the coil, and by the look of it, it is cotton "tape" which has been applied to hold all the turns securly.

If you can imagine a cotton bandage one applies to a leg or arm, the next layer is applied halfway over the previous layer, and is wound the length of the bandage.
So I believe this is the same process which has been applied on this coil.

I made a support for the coil out of wood scraps, drilled a single hole in the middle of 2 PVC end caps and assembled everything together, it worked, the coil rotates without binding so there will be no problems in that area.

However, there is a problem, the cotton will break as one side is stretched on one side of the copper wires as the wires are unwound off the coil, so I have plunged the coil in a 2 gal bucket of water.
This will (I hope) allow any cotton to keep together as the wires are unwound, tomorrow will tell.

jim

2681 = Dry coil mounted in the unwinding jig (had to take it out soon after).
2685 = Here it goes, into the bucket for a dunking
2687 = oops, its all wet now

030 = The final Cotton binding to help keep it all together.


   

[Pirate88179]

@ Alchemist123:

How do I know what transistor to use?  I don't.  I just happen to have a lot of experience with the 2n3904 with our JT circuit work.  It will take a battery down to about .35 volts and still operate.  A germanium transistor will go even lower but are harder to find.

IF my idea is correct then, there are probably many transistors that will work also.  n222, n3055, TIP3055, etc.  IF this works then we can explore what the optimum transistor might be to use.  A lot of guesswork here.

@ Jim:

That looks like you are trying to unwrap a mummy, ha ha.  Best of luck.  I like your jig you made.

@ Jeanna:

Have a great time and we will see you upon your return.

Bill

[Mk1]

@all

Before going to a transistor remember the coil needs to be watered once in a while , or will be outside .

Also coming back the the open ended circuit ala tesla , remember that a battery is one open ended device , like an antenna but the air void is filed by electrolyte as a substitute.

I know i am going a bit far , and hope its not lost on you.

Keep the good work everyone !

Mark

[electricme]

At Bill,
The mummy unwrapping is the best, ha ha., you have described the process to a T.

A KEY to remember
If anyone actually obtains a Stubblefield coil, please do not unwrap it UNTIL, and I emphasise this, UNTIL it is thoroughly SOAKED in water.
My reasons are this.
The cotton WILL snap very easily since it has had no moisture, the age of being dry promotes this.

I was a little apprehensive in putting my coil in a water bucket overnight, I'm sure glad I did do this or I would have had a fearsome mess on my hands.

I had wondered for a while just how much "cotton overlap" would be needed between each layer, the answer is below.

Here is another KEY.
There is a SINGLE SHEET of Cotton BETWEEN EVERY LAYOR of coils, this cotton separator is of the same texture and type of the cotton I have seen and posted before here.

Its dimensions are 17 1/2 inches long  by 7 inches wide, whoever made this coil used a rain drop size dollop of black substance to stick the 1 1/2 inch overlap down onto itself, so the next layer turns could be wound on the top of the cotton barrier layer. Don't know what the sticky dollop is, could be HYMEG, which was a substance we used to insulate rewound coils 4 decades back, it was red in colour then, very thick, a bit like red treacle or malasis.
So there is no need to sew the layer onto the coil, the coil will work OK.
   
So far the TOP outer cotton layer is almost a total write off, but the next layer lying below the 1st secondary Layer, is in almost good to excellent condition.
This will give anyone who has a genuine stubblefield coil some comfort knowing this, and I wouldn't be surprised if the next cotton layers don't get better the deeper I go exploring this coil.
I don't expect the last cotton layer to be in good condition, as the actual Last Last inside layer came off in several parts about two hours ago.

jim

2707 = Coil is mounted after a good overnight soaking in a 2 gallon bucket of water, what a mess.
2719 = EeeeHarrrr, Cotton tape, actually it's a sheet of cotton, full length and width on the coil.
2720 = As I removed the cotton sheet it looked like this
2721 = Cotton sheet layed out flat on my "red" walkway.
2723 = The "overlap" how much it actually is

 

[electricme]

@ MK1,

@all

Before going to a transistor remember the A needs to be watered once in a while , or will be outside .

Also coming back the the open ended circuit ala tesla , remember that a battery is one open ended device , like an antenna but the air void is filed by electrolyte as a substitute.

I know i am going a bit far , and hope its not lost on you.

Keep the good work everyone !

Mark

Well said Mark, exactly, spot on.

Any device to work must have it's "circuit" closed, for instance, the single 1.5volt cell + goes to the bottom contact of the torch bulb, the - goes to the side of the same bulb, the bulb will light up.

If you have any connection not making contact, the bulb won't work.

So it will be with the Stubblefield coil, but here there are 2 different circuits involved.

The primary which is the bifilar turns of Copper and Iron wires, and the secondary, whose job it is to power the bulb or motor etc etc.

Our problem as I see it is to get the primary bifilar to work, which creates the magnetic fields which the secondary is immersed in.

Marks idea and Bills and others to try transistors is good, but we need to figure out a circuit and part of this is a trigerring solid state device as most people here haven't got their heads around the right way to setup a mechanical make or break switch, distances to place the switch at or mechanical tension and spring compressions that would be needed by it.

BTW, to everyone, just a general question.
What would be your personal reactions if someone ever said they had a Stubblefield coil in their possession?
WOW wouldn't that be great, lol.

NO I don't have one, the closest I have seen to one is this coil I have been taking apart on this forum, but there's a photo of 4 propped up in a row on a table top, which was posted several months ago.



jim