Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[shylo]

to Iota..........if the iron has a stronger internal field , than the copper..........then why would the surface field be equal?..........I don't understand..........in a NS coil the current flow, created by the galvanic reaction,.....is flow in the copper only? ,.......inducing a magnetic field in the steel wire,.....thus inducing a magnetic field in the core?........I'm not sure I understand whats going on here.......thanx...........shylo

[IotaYodi]

then why would the surface field be equal?

From my understanding the internal field intensity is confined within the metal conductor. Once it leaves the magnetic domains in the metal, the same internal field intensity is lost because there are no magnetic domains external to it. This makes sense.

is flow in the copper only? ,.......inducing a magnetic field in the steel wire,

Copper has 100% conductivity while pure iron is only 18%. Any alloy of iron is lower than this. There would be a limited current in the iron. According to this information the coppers current flow would not induce a magnetic field of any consequence into the iron wire. The iron wires magnetic field collapse would induce v/a into the copper. The magnetic field stays uniform throughout the coil without alteration. This was one of my questions if the copper was inducing a magnetic field into the iron wire and apparently it doesnt. This leads me to believe that the iron core and the iron wire are working together as one simultaneously. Once again a low carbon high iron wire will work better. A better and stronger field collapse will give you more power.
Current input whether in ground or externally will dictate the power. Also the number of windings and materials used.  Galvanic and external currents combined as well as other means need to be studied. Heres Tishatang experimental view on the subject.

OK, here is my circuit on the Stubblefield Patent 600457
To understand the patent you have to understand resonant circuits.  To review:  A parallel res circuit multiplies the voltage.  A series res circuit multiplies the amps.  The Q of the circuit is the multiplier.

For example:  We have two ground rods.  The voltage between them is 1 AC volt at a small .002 amps.  Then if Q is the multiplier, we have 50 volts peak on the parallel circuit, and .100 amps on the series circuit.  If we could combine the two separate circuits, we would have a gain in power of 50 X 50 = 2500 all in theory.  If we were only 10 % efficient due to loads and losses, we would still have a gain of 250, not bad.  The bifilar coil in the patent is high Q construction.  It probably has a Q of 100 to 200.   So, you see the potential is there.to gain a lot of power even with a small input.

Stubblefield did not have diodes to play with in his day.  Unless he used an antennae, he would not be able to use a parallel circuit.  So, what did he do?  He used two series circuits to amplify the amps.  The two ground rods of their respective circuits would still remain at the one volt difference.  We are just pumping up  the amps.  He gets the gain in voltage by colliding the series currents into each other.  Notice the new circuit shows the ground rod pairs at opposite voltage to each other!

Have you ever watched boats in a lake coming in from opposite directions.  Each has a small wake.  But when the wakes collide, it sets up a few big high waves.   Same effect is seen when reflected waves meet the source waves.  You get higher and lower waves at a lower frequency as their energies mix and match or cancel each other.  these higher and stronger wave energize the collector coil wound around the bifilar pair in opposition.  This is our power gain.  Their must be an also unknown power gain by using one coil of iron.  The higher resistance of iron can possibly link with the magnetic field of the earth, or cause a phase shift that helps the amplification factor?  Or maybe has something to do with conditioning the space?

I have seen writings speculating on the make or break of the secondary (collector) coil.  This is a simple relay set up as a vibrator.  Here, it is normally closed.  I should have placed it next to its battery where it can be normally open.  When energized by the battery or separate EB, the coil of the relay opens and closes the contacts in a vibrating mode.  This works the same as hitting a bell with a hammer.   The bell will ring at its resonant tone.  It doesn't matter how you hit the bell or how fast or what kind of hammer.  It will still ring at the same tone.  A tuned resonant circuit acts the same as a bell.  The sharp pulses of the relay contacts will ring the circuits at their resonant frequencies automatically.   

To have this make or break in the patent only makes sense if you are using resonant circuits.  The same reason he used high Q winding techniques.  These are resonant circuits.  Everything points to it.

Even though the iron and copper coils are linked together as a bifilar winding, they can each have different resonant frequencies.  The make or break will ring them both.  Look back to the Q reference at the beginning of this thread and see the graph.  The higher the Q, the longer the ring.

This primes the pump, so to speak, and gets things going into resonance.  Then the battery and the relay are no longer needed.  You collect your power through the normally closed switch.  The pumping action conditions the immediate area.  The longer you pump the EB, the bigger your conditioned area will become.  You can add a feedback loop to sustain operation.  If earth currents shift or weaken, you can prime the pump again to get things going.  Once conditioned, it takes less energy to sustain the field.  To get it going again might be as easy as sparking the wire as you touch it to connect.

Knowing these principles, you can can design your own version of the patent.  It can be bigger or smaller.  Smaller means higher frequencies.  Bigger means lower frequencies.  Normally, the lower frequencies carry more energy.  I say start with what you have on hand to prove the principle.  Try and use natural insulation materials instead of plastic.  Fiberglass and resin are OK for insulation.  I have a feeling modern magnet wire is OK as long as the coating is not plastic. Be sure and use the wood ends and cotton wrap between layers of the coils and the core.  I will explain why later.

Before you bury your EB in the ground do the following:

Place the components on the ground and map the magnetic fields around  a five foot radius or whatever you have room for.  Write down, the direction the compass points as you walk around the spot.  See how close the compass has to be to attract to the iron, say 3 inches.  Then after you bury it and start your conditioning, see if it changes the magnetic field?   Magnetic field and orientation of the compass changes will indicate conditioning is happening and how far out it has expanded.  For example, the compass is now pointing to the iron at two feet away instead of 3 inches with the priming turned off.

I hope this helps us all in the search for cheap energy.
Tishatang

[electricme]

@All,

I have been able to make a Stubblefield Coil in a different way than the normal.

The above posts are real good stuff to know and thank you to those who have provided it.

I have been playing around with one of my Stubblefield Coil Winding Machines doing an experiment of sorts, I built a second machine the MK2 model and I am testing it, I must say it is way better than my first machine in looks and fuctionanality. I will write up about it later, but first here is what I have been doing over the last two days.

For some time I have been thinking is there another way to make a Stubblefield Coil by altering the technique slightly, and it seem to be so.
Thinking about the original patient, Stubblefield shows us a drawing showing the Iron and Copper wires with the "cotton" covering around the copper wire.
I got to thinking, is there another way to do this, because without doubt after reading the posts, everyone including myself are having difficulties getting hold of the cotton covered copper wire. It's expensive or unobtainable being the most frequent complaints or a combination of both.

So out came my drawing pen and I began to sketch a few plans, how to solve this delima, and I have to say I have come up with another way of doing the same thing, without using or making a cotton winding machine to make the cotton covered wire.
The technique I will show you all looks very simple, but after trying it, the actual process of making this work is very very difficult indeed, and I certainly do not recommend anyone do this if they have no experience in winding Stubblefield Coils.

I only attempted this as I have had previous years of experience in the method of winding coils of different diameters and thicknesses of wires.

As you all know, cotton is the insulator for the bare copper wire, but it can also be used in the same fashion with the bare Iron wire, either conductor will do, just as long as the wires are separated by some barrier that will provide the separation effect but still allow moisture to penetrate and allow the energy to flow between the conductors.

Just for a moment imagine a single Iron and a single copper wire, viewed end on like this OO.
After thinking about the problem, it dawned on me, that there is a sheet of cotton below and above the copper and the Iron wires.

So this leaves only the "sides" of the metal wires left to be insulated, and so I thought, what could be used here, and the answer is simple, use cotton STRING.

I went to town and bought several balls of cotton string from the reject shop, they were cheap at $2 a packet, 2 rolls in each, the length is at 75 meters a ball of cotton string, it works out to 246 inches per roll, two rolls works out to just under 500 feet of cotton string, I ended up getting 4 packets.


Beginning to wind
I made sure the iron bolt had a layer of cotton tape to insulate it first.
The way wind in QUADfilar is to hold between the fingers and thumb 4 strands of material, consisting of a cotton string, next to it a Iron wire, next to that another cotton string then next to that a copper wire, seems simple doesn't it.
So in that configuration I began to wind a Stubblefield Coil in the MKII Stubblefield Coil Winding Machine I have made.

Believe me this is not for those who have no patience or couldn't be bothered, or if you don't have a coil winding machine, it tried my patience to the limit.
I set the machine speed to very low RPM, just a walk speed and soon I had problems with the cotton strings getting in the wrong place, it is very hard to keep everything paralleled up with either a wire or cotton string. To confound the problems the cotton string and the cotton tape in the background was straining my eyes.

Remember this is 4 things you are trying to hold together in a flat configuration, they must not be apart either, but held next to each other.
After I got to the end of the first layer, I checked it for shorts, and there were none, so far so good, next grabbed some cotton tape as I don't have a spare sheet or pillow case to use and covered the 1st layer. This insulates the top of the wires, now I had formed a insulation barrier between the top of the Iron and Copper wires, just as if there was a bare copper wire that had a cotton thread wound around it, the same thing was achieved, just doing it by a different method.

I wound the 2nd Layer and when I got to the end, I checked it for shorted turns, and there were none.
I put my DMM on the wires and there was only about 16 mV.

It was time to wet the coil which I did, then I saw the 16 mV begin to rise.

After I damply wet the coil I can see .67mV on the DMM, I connect the other DMM and I see .96mA immediately, which is falling quickly and seattels to .82mA the voltage in the meantime is 0 volts.

So yes, this different insulation technique does seem to work, but is a real pain to build.

Next I connected my cro, and I have a wave form, lots of spikes here, but my 10Mhz cro is very old and at the extreme limits of operation so its results will be in question.
Anyway, if I remove the probes, the display disappears, if I short out the copper and Iron wires, the display disappears, I checked if the PWM or it's associated wiring was projecting stray RF energy into the coil, and it wasn't, so I am left with the impression the Stubblefield Coil is beginning to operate only on 2 layers of winds.

All up, I call this experiment a total success, now I'm beginning to wonder if there is a different insulation covering around a wire that will allow moisture to trickle in and do the same job as the cotton covered wire.
Has anyone ever come across a insulation that has microscopic holes in it but is able to be a barrier between different metals but allows moisture to pass, like a membrane.

jim
 

[Pirate88179]

Jim:

Great to see you post my friend.  Hey, using the string method is exactly how I wound both of my NS coils.  I did it a little easier way though I think.

I just wound cu/fe bifilar for one layer on top of the core which was covered in cotton cloth.  Then, I took cotton string that was the same diameter as my wire and started at one end and "forced" it in between the iron and copper wires.  You have to do this twice per layer as you already know.  it worked well and made a nice flat linear winding.  I only had enough solid wire to make 2 layers 12" long though and, I did not have the aid of your brilliant machine either...ha ha, I wish I did.

Excellent to hear from you Mate.

Bill

[MW383]

It was good to see your pictures of latest coil Jim.

Regarding cotton insulated copper wire; I have taken the liberty of having some custom made by a local manufacturer. Specs are 16ga solid copper wire (bare) covered with water permeable / wound nylon sleeving. The sleeving is a multiple angle weave (dense criss-cross pattern). This sleeving will perform well in this application and will not degrade like the cotton stuff I was playing around with previously. It should also eliminate shorting issues, especially in the event of iron corrosion. I know that this is not supposed to occur but let’s be reasonable, until we figure out how to make this thing run properly, this corrosion does happen.  I'll post some pictures of this new wire soon. Cost was $0.10/ft USD, not cheap but not bad either considering it is a premium solution.

I am in process on replacing the cotton insulation layer between winding layers. I will be using a battery grade separator paper from H&V. (I used to work in that industry). Separator paper I will use is same variety found in common alkaline cells. It will provide the following: spacing between windings, water permeability, and a very smooth/uniform surface in which the next winding can be placed on. Furthermore, the separator will not degrade like cotton. I should have some in a week or so.

Note: my material alterations are aimed at improving overall quality of the primary windings. I have been quite dissatisfied with my former windings (semi-wild in nature). I am close to achieving a cross section that looks like the patent illustration. The alternate materials will still function like original design and should make construction more uniform and repeatable in nature. My intent is to make a detailed study of this coil, thus I want the cleanest construction possible; one that doesn’t deviate from the patent, at least operationally.
I am sticking with a crude inner core (probably 1018) solid bar stock. I’m still trying to decide on a diameter and length. I am more concerned with field properties. So whatever diameter gives me the best field with the 16ga wires I am using will win the day. Maybe in the future I would consider alternate core materials or construction aspects but not today, Stubblefield made it work with barn bolts, and so can we.

After this, I will run it a lot differently than most do. I could care less about a secondary winding at this point. The power capability is in the primary so getting this to work is my immediate and only concern. For starters I will test on a bench under ‘simulated’ conditions. This will verify proper conditions required to generate a lot of power (and this primary coil can certainly do this) After that, simulation would have to be removed/replaced with earth based interface (a bit more challenging but I think entirely do-able…)

Keep up the good work Jim. I look forward to seeing how your new coil works for you.