Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[electricme]

@ MW383,

You have some very interresting things you want to experiment with, winding a coil, I will look forward to these photos, they sound very interresting.
How much of this wire did you order if I may ask, and what size Stubblefield Coil do you intend to make?

This nylon cross weave sounds like the stuff we used to insulate the wire junctions of motor rewinds we did, but is your wire actually going to be fed through a machine and the nylon will be woven around the wire as it is drawn through the machine? Sorry about the questions, I am curious about it.

I'm having great difficulty in getting a particular layer to stop shorting as I move up from the lower level at one of the coil ends, I'm on my 3rd attempt to wind this layer and it's driving me grrrr LOL, so I'm interrested in your paper or cardboard idea on insulating with a broad sheet instead of using a cotton sheet. This just might be the answer for me, but I thing my problem is during the inserting the cotton sheet end under and over a set of wires without making a short circuit in the process.

Maybe I should cut a 1/8 inch notch out of the corner and allow the wire to ride up and over the edge onto the next level will work.

I have secured a 1.5volt battery holder onto the side of the wood disk and attached a light globe to it, the idea is the light globe will switch on the instant a short occurs warning me it just happened so I can instantly stop the winds and redo that wind again or at least take a look at what happened. A buzzer would be a good idea to use also in parallel with the light as an audible warn signal.

It's no fun doing a complete layer and having to undo all that work to fix the short which occurred way back at the other end.

I noticed you have picked up on one of the key points that people need to take note of, and that is to get a successful working Stubblefield Coil replication before going off on a tangent and modifying it out of all proportion, when it 's working, you have a bench mark to fall back on.

Ha ha, the secondary coil, this is the one, but what we need to do is to figure out just how much of a magnetic field we need to make from a coil to get X amount of energy out of another coil immersed inside the magnetic field as it collapses and rebuilds. Frequency, current and voltage is involved, I believe the small coils will operate at a high frequency, as the layers of the bifilar section (primary) are built the frequency will drop and the current is going to rise.
I think the voltage and the current will oscillate between each other as the coil begins to work, then I think there will also be a sweet spot where a secondary will perform the best as it is found by slowly moving the secondary in or out of the bifilar windings by sliding it backward or forwards.

If we look at the patient drawings, the secondary is shown as a completely independent coil on it's own former, I think Stubblefield found if he made his secondary directly over a working bifilar section, he would be in danger of elocution as the turns got above a certain limit, now that wouldn't be too helpful to his health, so it would have been a simple matter of building the secondary away from the bifilar section, then slipping it over that section when he was ready to do so.

Anyway this is all my interpretation on looking at the patient drawings, it makes seance to me.

jim
   

[electricme]

@all

Power mobs have found another way to jackup the cost of power. I just googled "smart meter in power boxes" and got shocked big time.

It seems Australia along with anyone who uses electric power is to get "smart Electrical Meters" installed with or without their concent.    Going by users experience, this jacks up power prices immediately by several hundred dollars each bill..


http://www.collingwood.vic.au/smart-meters-not-so-smart



There is a supposed to be a report "Biolnitiative Report" floating somewhere in this web site here http://www.bioinitiative.org/  which appears to have a very negative writeup about radiation and metering concerns about these new digital electricity meters.

Going by the info I have seen, so why are we all locked out of this web site unless we pay?   

One bloke in Ausie  http://www.standard.net.au/news/local/news/general/one-mans-power-play/1752737.aspx   padlocked his meter box to keep the greedy swap from taking place, hooray for him.

http://www.theherald.com.au/news/local/news/general/power-suppliers-shun-smart-meter/1419929.aspx

BTW, the power box on the wall is owned by the house holder, so you can lock the door on it, but cut a small square hole in the door so they can still read the meter or they will dream up phantom meter readings...
Tomorrow I lock my box.

Common people, start building your own Stubblefield Coils or dig deeper in your hip pockets.

Jim

[IotaYodi]

BTW, the power box on the wall is owned by the house holder

Here in the states you own it too but the line side belongs to the power company. If there is no disconnect means and just the meter on the outside, you cant cover the meter. The meter itself would be the disconnect means in case of fire. 
The power bill should not be 100's of dollars per bill. Still its just another way for corporations to get that extra dime out of you multiplied by millions.

All the braided wire ive worked with has been tough. Ive had to use a razor knife to strip some as wire strippers didnt work. Kudos on the cotton string. I was wondering how that would work out. Winding your own cotton wire has got to be a pain. I had another thought. If the iron wire is just for the magnetic field I see no reason why it cant be insulated. Interleaving the cotton would then be much easier with the bare copper. This would stop the galvanic action between the copper and iron though. Question is if the galvanic action is needed.
Great work Electric!

[MW383]

How much of this wire did you order if I may ask, and what size Stubblefield Coil do you intend to make?

...but is your wire actually going to be fed through a machine and the nylon will be woven around the wire as it is drawn through the machine?

...so I'm interrested in your paper or cardboard idea on insulating with a broad sheet instead of using a cotton sheet.

I only ordered 250ft of the wire. I want to make sure it works before spending too much $. 250ft cost me $25 by the way. I have to figure out a coil size I can make with just 250ft wire. I am interested in at least 5 winding layers so I need to figure out iron core diameter, length and work from there. It will probably not be very big. That's ok, it will not matter for the purpose of my testing. Obviously these things can be scaled up/down per the patent. Which seems to indicate that there underlying principals at work here, size not being a factor as far as true functionality.

I am using a rope heater manufacturer to do the winding. They run the copper wire through their normal winding process without issue. It is a continuous feed process using many spindles of the nylon thread all rotating at high speed. The various individual threads enter the wire at various angles thus giving the criss-cross pattern. When they make rope heaters, they bake the finished product. I had them skip this process in order to have something water permeable. Iota is right about stripping the insulation, it has to be done with a razor in order to keep things from fraying. I have some real nice nylon fabric tape that will wrap around the stripped end thus keeping it clean. I suppose shrink tubing would also work.

The battery separator paper is a fibrous, porous, water permeable material. Due to its small thickness, it will take several layers. I am still pondering how thick this layer should be. I think it this is a critical design feature. For starters I will probably scale the patent drawing and apply these relationships to my own materials/construction geometry. At any rate, when you multi-layer this separator paper, it becomes quite rigid in nature thus making a fairly solid and uniform surface for the laying of the next winding layer. Look at the first widing layer you make. It is on the hard core surface and it is always near perfect in nature. But my experience with cotton insulator layer was that as I increased my layers, they became bumpy. The cotton wadded up a lot because I was winding the wires as tight as I could. It has never turned out to my satisfaction yet. I aim to cure this. If battery separator paper doesn't work, I have other materials to try. (a bit different in concept)

Iota mentions insulated iron. I may try this and see if there is any penalty. The only one I can think of is that slightly increased insulation distance may slightly decrease what is happening in the copper wire. Just a theory.... Obviously if both copper and iron were of same guage and both insulated, outside diameters would be identical, thus windings super clean in nature. For future fun, I will send some 16ga iron over to my rope heater manufacturer for insulating. Right now I am on the hunt for iron wire that is the same diameter as current copper wire+its insulation. I do not have a solid idea if there is a relationship between the copper and iron wire sizes. My immediate thoughts are that more iron in relation to copper has no adverse effects (magnetic field thinking here).

So I need to do a little figuring and material acquisition yet before I start building. It has been about 1 year since I have wound one. I look forward to getting back into it. My approach will be one of pure testing and documentation of observed results. The test matrix is almost done and quite exhaustive in nature. It will take me a bit of time to get through it all. But since it will be winter soon, and my outdoor farming activities reduced, I should have more time to tinker.

[MW383]

Here is the insulated copper wire I had manufactured. Copper = solid 16ga + bare. Insulation = wound nylon. Is water permeable.

On the left is how it looks when stripped. You can see weave pattern used. It is a bit scrappy looking when stripped. On the right is an end I added shrink tubing to. Is much better.