Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[protonmom]

@all:  I looked for the address for the fiberglass covered wire, but I didn't see it.  Did I miss it somewhere?

@electricme:  Congratulations on the coil....even if it did short.  I know you will get it going again, and will make it even better!  Are you getting tired of winding yet?

[electricme]

Sorry for the late replies to everyones questions and those offering helpful suggestins I got over whelmed with things here which needed my urgent attention.

@ Jesus,

Thank you for those tips on knocking off the sharp bits of solder, I have some heat shrink tubing here and will use it this time without fail.

I did a little research on how to join two steel wires, I need to use a silvering solder technique, huh, I ain't got the flux or silver solder, gonna doa bit of thinking about this one.

@MW383,
Thank you also for the figures on the voltages, I wasn't aware just what I could get from it, so what I was getting indicates it was a good output, I noticed the output in mA was getting higher every time I wound the layers, this tells me the coil is a magnetic device, it's a 6th sense feeling I have.

I am wondering if you can let me know the contact details on this special woven wire you had made for you, any chance of this please?

I hope your separator paper turns out to be the good stuff, cotton tape is what I am using right now, but when I saw the rust markings on my coil after just a few days it surprised me no end, but Lasersaber says his coils rusted up but still are working hmmmm.

@Magluvin,

Many of the older posters here have pulled their coils apart after they had been lying in the ground, or left on table tops, in most cases they all found them with rust, but it would be better for them to answer.

No one tried testing that I know of in a vacuum, the electrolyte is the water, look at Lasersabers videos, it shows voltage rising as he squirts water over the cotton.
I found the same thing occurring with my coil to. the voltage rises as it gets damp.
On a humid day I expect the coil to put out energy longer, buried in the earth, where it is constantly damp, it will work all the time it is buried.
Don't know about pressure, could be interresting experiment with the vacuum as well.

@ Protonmom,

Long time no see, welcome back to the forum of discoveries lol.
I also looked for the address, I think MW383 has the details where to get the fiberglass covered wire, he might be on to a breakthrough with using a new replacement material for the Stubblefield Coil, and good for him for thinking outside the square.
Thanks for the congrats, yes I'm tired of unwinding but will have to keep going.

I just had a brain wave, could a stainless steel wire be used in replacement of the steel or iron wire, it would almost banish the rust problem. There are different grades of stainless, the feed grade might be the best one.

It's almost midnight, so as I'm tired out I'm off to bed

jim
 

[lasersaber]

I did a little research on how to join two steel wires, I need to use a silvering solder technique, huh, I ain't got the flux or silver solder, gonna doa bit of thinking about this one.

  This is where real problems can happen.  I had my long term test motor running along just fine.  It ran for over 110 days nonstop with no added water.  When it did slow down I believe it was because it had a failure at the connection point where the two pieces of steel wires connected.  I used two rolls of steel wire on that coil and the point where the two connected has always a trouble spot in the back of my mind. This is the second time I have had this happen on a NS coil.  I will never again use multiple pieces of wire in a coil.  I may do a video of a coil dissection on this coil so that we can all see what the inner wires look like after well over 100 days of constant running.

  I just finished a new NS coil, it is very large and uses about 10 pounds of 16# wire.  I used continuous wires with no connections.  It is an amazing coil and works really well. I will feature it in a video soon.

I have also been doing a lot of non galvanic tests.  I have had some really encouraging results.

Test 1:

I have wound coils with copper cores and copper wires no iron wire at all.  I have found that it is possible to get voltage and mA simply using copper alone.  You need to use dissimilar diameter copper wires.  This effect works in the ground and out of the ground.

Test 2:

I have also found that a NS coil works using enamel covered copper wire and iron wire in a dry state.  I will admit that I am now very interested in building a Faraday cage to do further tests with this non galvanic NS coil.

Test 3:

On a slightly different track I also made a replication of Daniel McFarland Cook's coils and got them working in a super efficient motor design.  I ran the motor for over ten days on discharged super capacitors alone.  I then dead shorted the capacitors for over 24 hours and started the motor run test again.  It started running with the capacitors showing 12 millivolts while under load running the motor.  After another couple days the motor was still running at the same millivolt levels.  I think this is working on the self charge effect these large capacitors seem to display.  I know that it will work very well connected to a regular NS coil.  NS coils behave very much like super capacitors.

I really need to make some new videos showing and better explaining some of these effects.  I will build a Faraday cage and do more tests.

[electricme]

@ Lasersaber,

Thank you for you thoughts on the problems you have been having with your coils, well done.
Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get my hands on kilometers of iron wire in one length, but I will be looking for it.
If I had a gas axe, then it would be a simple matter to heat the two ends to join them, ha ha.

Yes, I encourage you to do a video on your coil pull down, may I suggest you make some arrangement to take up the wire on empty rolls as you do the procedure, I found the wire on my coil had a spring effect, it would rotate or unwind around the circumference if I accidentally slackened off the tension as I tried unwinding the coil.
In the end I just had to let the iron wire go on my kitchen floor.

What turns remaining on my coil is putting out energy, not too much though, it is all DC, copper is Positave, Steel is Negative

The best thing I ever did was to make a shorted turns tester and mount that on the side of the coil, to warn me if and when shorts occur during winding, I am soooo pleased I did, that saved me an awful lot of grief.

You have some good ideas, keep them flowing, people will be able to help with replications.
With your copper and copper coil, which size wire favors the positive side?

You have done a excellent job making Parts 1 to 5 on How to build a stubblefield coil.

Do you still make your coils by hand or use a machine to wind them?

Well done Lasersaber.

jim

[nievesoliveras]

@electricme and @lasersaber

Keep your good work going!

Jesus