Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[electricme]

@StuartU

First of all, let me welcome to the Stubblefield Coil Forum Stu, and I can see you have taken some time and effort reading up the thread which is great.

I have read your post and must do so again shortly to make some of your suggestions sink in a little, I have only just woken up it's just past 5.00am here, and decided to check my emails.
You make some very valid points, but I suggest when you actually make your first coil that you use the materials that Nathan Stubblefield used in his as he had success.

That being said, yes when you have done that, then swap one material from the original and monitor the changes (if any) from the benchmark coil.

During your first post, you made mention to a double coil diagram, a lot of people have offered their opinions on this, I'm not sure if I have though, but I think the double coil appeared about a year ago or close to it.

From what I can remember it was debunked pretty strongly but I have been making some discoveries of my own coil I have made here and I am beginning to see that if a number of coils were connected in series then the voltage is going to rise.

What I do know is concrete and it is this.
The copper wire puts out constant DC,  POSITIVE voltage and the Iron or Steel wire puts out NEGATIVE voltage.

You have mentioned the coil being soaking wet and bone dry and as the moisture departs the coil, the voltage at some point finds a happy medium and the coil will operate at optimum power. This is correct as I have found it to be so.

Sealing the Stubblefield Coil when it reaches that level is going to be the tricky part, I think the only way to find this "sweet" spot will be to do a number of runs as the coil will not perform exactly as expected each time, then select a average best output, then seal that Coil.
But to do this we would need some sort of automatic Data recording device to record to a computer or data logger that we could print out the recordings.

A couple of weeks ago, I came to the conclusion that the coil is not pulsing, its magnetic field is strong and then weak, but it depends on the amount of moisture residing inside the coil at the time, now lets take a look at the series coil you mentioned.
Some of the posters here do have a number of stubblefield coils they have made, (I only have one) but I want those who have two or more to connect them all in series, and monitor the output voltage.
The Milli amps will not change only the voltage.

My coil is putting out 0.12 volts tight now as it is almost bone dry, but if I had made 3 identical coils I would be confidant to say, if I connected them in series, I would get 0.36 volts, remember, my coil is dry.

When I was building my coil I measured up into the 0.70 volts, so lets take this a little further.
If I had 6 Stubblefield Coils all connected in series, then I would get 3 volts (if they were each putting out 0.50 volts) so you can begin to see that there is a big improvement, but miliamps is still in the extremely LOW range.

But what I am saying is, the person who posted that double coil diagram just may have done us all a service here, it fairly shook up this forum when it occurred, but I have been thinking about it for some time and the series connected Stubblefield Coils is beginning to make some sense to me.

Not every connection on the original series double coil diagram was correct, but it was along the right track.

Now looking at one of the photos wayyyyy back we can see a box of stubblefield coils, and theres a heep of wires jumping all over the place within the box area, I have seen rats nests just like this when Auto electricians charge heaps of batteries at the same time, but they do it in series-parallel, so I'm going to say up front here that it is possible to raise the voltage and amperage of a Stubblefield Coil ARRAY.

So how does one do this?
Easy, begin with the first coil, connect the Iron wire to the next Stubblefield Coil, which will be the copper wire, then connect the Iron wire to the next Stubblefield Coil which will be the copper wire, to get more juice out of a series ARRAY, just add in the circuit more Stubblefield Coils.
To get 24 volts, you will need 48 Stubblefield Coils, if you have some way to switch the 24 volts output into a relay coil, then you can get useable power output.

Now if you can pulse a low voltage transformer, say it's input is 24 volts, and it's secondary output is say, 6 volts, then every time the primary voltage is being fed into the transformer is cut, the magnetic field will collapse, then the voltage is reduced in the secondary, but it's current output will be raised, to 4 times the input current level that it took to charge the transformer in the first place.

This can be done by feeding the Positive from the Stubblefield Coil Array into a transistor, at the Collector, the output is taken from the Emitter and fed into the transformer primary, the other wire of the transformer primary is taken back to the Stubblefield Iron or Steel wire, that completes the Primary circuit side.
But we need to feed a pulse train (I suggest a series of square waves with sharp knee points) from the Stubblefield Cell array positive, and feed that into the transistors Base.

The output from the secondary will then be able to make something work, be it charging a battery, lighting a resistance light bulb or a number of things.

Have I done all this? NO, I simply haven't enough Stubblefield Coils, but it makes a lot of sense to me.

Just think of a simple torch, 2 cells puts out light, the more cells you add, the more powerful the torch becomes.
Same principles are involved here.


jim
         

[jeanna]

@electricme,
Good job, Jim.

That is a beautiful looking coil.
I like the idea of cement, too.

Please check the magnetic field changes as Lasersaber did.
If you can get a little pulse when you touch those wires then you have a working coil.

If the polarity never changes then it cannot do any work when the switch connects those wires.
Of course, you know this.

I had a pm conversation with lidmotor when  I finished my coil, and he told me that his coil was not very fat when it gave him a magnetic deflection while shorting the wires.
This is what leads to a working device, and mine does not make this magnetic deflection so I think I have a problem or mine is not fat enough. (not enough layers of turns.) Or, my wire is keeping the polarity somehow.

Did you re-watch lidmotor's several stubblefield coil videos?
When added to Lasersaber's this is good evidence that this is the best way to replicate this device. (my opinion)

I wish you all the good luck to get replication No.3 working! 

@StuartU
Welcome.
Please spend some time watching lasersaber's instructional videos.
he actually teaches us how to make a stubblefield coil on yt.
this will save you a lot.
And, it can be run inside with a little spray bottle, too.

jeanna

[nievesoliveras]

@electricme

I have not build a coil yet because it is not shure if it will work and the materials are very expensive here on the island.

At lady @jeanna
Nice to see you are posting again.

Jesus

[McGiver30]

I would like to ask a couple questions, and it may have been discussed i just couldn't find it when the questions popped in my head. Each layer on NS battery is ran in series right? would that not just increase the voltage? would running each layer in parallel not increase amps? I have tried running experiments to prove or dissprove and my results prove yes. I am just wondering if anyone else has done so? When I ever make it home again I will take some pictures of my octopuse coils and post them. they have never made it into the ground yet, nor have they ever lit up a JT. mostly because I have only just started playing with JT's a couple years ago and my NS coils are a few more years older.

[electricme]

McGiver30:

Your question, each layer of the cell is in series, the answer is NO, because when you wind the coil the same wires are still in an endless fashion.
If you wanted to make a series connected Stubblefield Coil, then wind 2 separate Stubblefield Coils, then connect them in series.
The winding layers do not represent a series wound coil as the wires are continuously being wound.

Running two separate coils in parallel will increase the current output, but make sure you have identically wound coils, turn for turn and made from the same size copper and iron size wires, else the smallest coil will peg back the full output of the coil ARRAY. (Group of cells)

jim