Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[electricme]

@ McGiver30,

I'm sorry you have been upset, but some unforeseen events over the last several days have taken place where I live that have prevented me from getting on line to address your question, so my thanks to the others who answered for me.

You question as I read it was also confusing, well to me anyway, but I will briefly attempt to explain how you wind a Stubblefield Coil.

With the empty former in my machine, I feed the iron wire and the copper wire into the respective predrilled holes in the side of a wooden end, then I holding the two wires so they are flat next to each other, I rotate the coil and the wires wind on nice and neatly.
When I get to the end of the 1st layer, I then use 1/2" cotton tape and wind that as the insulating barrier over the winds I just previously wound.
Next I continue the winds, but they now slowly wind back over the cotton layer I just completed, I get to the end of this second layer, then I wind on a layer of 1/2" cotton cloth, then I start to wind on another layer of wires, and so on and so on until I have built my Stubblefield coil.

When I have finished all the winding, I feed the ends through 2 more separate holes in the wooden end and secure them using terminals.

Yes, all the layers of the Stubblefield Coil are all parallel to each other, but they all are all made from a continuous length of 2 wires, a copper and Iron.
 
Please don't expect to have a high output from the coil, yet, as all of us on this forum haven't got that far ahead and achieved this, some people reading this haven't even made a Stubblefield Coil, some have made one, others have made 4 or more, we are still experimenting with it and still learning ourselves.
One person is winding one way, another is winding another way, but we are all trying to follow Nathans Patent making our coils.

I think that is the sum of the positions we all currently at.
   
I hope this is understandable, if not, ask again.


jim
 

[IotaYodi]

Each layer on NS battery is ran in series right?

No. You would have to wind one wire first then connect the other wire to it and then finish the wind for series. The copper and iron are running parallel to each other though.

it does not matter how you wind the coils that it all acts as one electro magnet.

No. The coil can be a voltaic couple or a self sustaining electromagnet. The iron wire is the negative or return for the voltaic couple.
You do bring up a point that may have not been discussed before on cw or ccw windings. I cant remember which direction gives more amps or voltage. Follow this if you will. You can input the voltage from either the beginning or ends of the wires. The beginning wires v/a will travel outward from the core. Inputting the v/a on the ending wires will travel inward to the core in the opposite direction. I suspect the beginning wires would be best but the direction of the windings for the greater voltage or greater amps I dont know. Im still waiting on my cotton wire but when I get it Ill wind my coil ccw as I think most have done cw.

Just a reminder.
Positive to another devices positive is parallel.
Neg to another devices positive is series

[StuartU]

Hi all,

So I have got my Plastic for the end caps, My soft iron cores should be here today, although UPS may complain about driving out as far as I am from town...

So in my search so far for wire, all I can see that is readily available in Canada is 7.80/foot. Now I don't know about you guys, but that's a bit steep for me.  I have contacted a couple companies in Turkey of all places to see if I can get it much cheaper than that, but they have 50/100 kg minimum orders.
I was thinking of ordering from the company in the UK, but everyone seems to not be able to get one length of wire. If I can get 50 kg all in one wire I am going to do it, since I plan on making lots of these for testing anyway. That's about 22,000 ft of wire in one spool give or take.

As for iron wire, would baling wire do? I live on a farm and that's really handy actually.

Couple of questions though. If I can get thicker wire, say 9AWG or so, would that be better?

There is actually a mfg of ferrite in Etobicoke(none to far for me) so I have asked them for prices on 8 in long 1/2 in dia. bars. We shall see what he says...

[IotaYodi]

As for iron wire, would baling wire do? I live on a farm and that's really handy actually.

No. too much carbon. I recommend 1006 black oxide wire. I got a 10 lb 1/16 inch 960 foot roll for $29 US. You can also get it on 5 lb spools at 480 foot for $18 US. The 1/16 inch is close to 14 gauge wire. Zinc is more expensive but you really dont need it. The black oxide is a thinner coating. I have tested the 1006 and found zero remanence. Good soft low carbon iron.   
http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbon-steel-wire/=9z19eg

If I can get thicker wire, say 9AWG or so, would that be better?

That is some thick wire. Would not be an easy task to wind not to mention the much higher cost and your iron wire should be about the same size.  #14 is good for 15 amps. I Have been in contact with a small company called brillmans. I only wanted 500 foot of #14 cotton wire. He said it would take 3 to 4 weeks to set his machine up and buy the wire. The cost of 14 GA 500 feet is $133.50 per 500 feet. He would probably speed this up if more wire was bought. I havent given him any money yet. He said he would contact me. Much cheaper than $7.50 a foot. If you said you wanted a thousand foot or more of #14 gauge he might setup quicker. If so I would go a Thousand foot. Heres his Number. Let me know what he says!
John Brillman
The Brillman Company
Phone Toll Free 888-274-5562

I myself would use wooden end caps for moisture retention. Ive made up a few 5/8" plywood cap ends with my hole saw. I got a new couch and took some oak wood from the old couch and will probably make a few from them.

[electricme]

@all,

Nice work so far, keep it up.

jim