Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[Pirate88179]

Apology to Freezer and Artic Knight.

I am sorry.  I did not mean to confuse the two of you guys.  It was a very busy day here and it is now 8 degrees F outside. My brain, what is left of it, was not working very well.

@Joe:

Thanks for pointing that out. What do you think of the idea though?

Bill

[jeanna]

well the volt is how high the wave is and the amp is how long the wave is, 

Arctic_Knight
Thanks for this explanation. It helps. I understand frequency in music etc but this may be what I need to be able to translate it into circuits.

I can't understand what it is that you tune when you are tuning a circuit for frequency.

I did a little indoors experiment today. It is sort of my next step to Bill's circuit.
I put together the 2 LED circuits that I have. (I drew both of them the other day.) One has a green LED and a series cap made of two 0.047F supercaps in parallel to the light, and the  other one  has a red LED with two 1F supercaps in parallel. I ran these neg to pos neg to pos then an 8 " piece of wire making a ring back to the first neg. I put the leads of a battery with 2.7V between the legs of just one LED-Caps unit.
Both lights lit up and stayed lit for an hour on a 60 second charge. I repeated this 4 times and checked the voltage on the battery before and after each application. It went down by about 0.01v with each application. Sometimes it went down more than that just after the application but was recovered later.  The battery started with 2.73 volts and now is 2.71 volts.

The other thing is that making a loop in the same way but with only the {red plus 2 caps all in parallel} set., the connecting wire got hot and started to burn. Then when I added the other one, the {green LED with one series cap in parallel} set, everything is as I described.

If this is too hard to follow I will make a drawing.

Please understand that the reason I am resorting to using a chemical battery for now is that I have just under what I need to start my circuit with the earth battery and I am just getting my circuit ready while I wait for the carbon rod.  And I thought you should know because the results are so promissing.

I think mramos's jule thief might help move things along the earth battery too. I will be putting one of those together to try.

jeanna

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

Great work.  Good idea to test your circuits with the battery before going outside to freeze.  What is a joule thief?
I have seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I have no idea what it is, or what it does, or how to make one. It sounds like a very effieicent circuit but, what do I know?

Bill

[jeanna]

@ Jeanna:

Great work.  Good idea to test your circuits with the battery before going outside to freeze.  What is a joule thief?
I have seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I have no idea what it is, or what it does, or how to make one. It sounds like a very effieicent circuit but, what do I know?

Bill

Bill,
It is a small circuit that extracts the unused juice remaining in a battery. It seems to greatly enhance the useability of any voltage/amperage that is there. It may enhance our earth batteries.

Take a look at these 2 sites for a joule thief.

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/joulethief

The second one is a little video that makes it look easy. (Now that I have a "helping hand" to hold some of the parts while I solder!)

I just saw something strange in my new circuit. I will see if I can figure it out before I describe it. Sometimes I don't trust my meter, then sometimes it seems perfect. I think I expect it to do odd things.

I have a request.
Would you please (did you already?)  measure the voltage across the 2 leads of your LED? I am asking for these when it is no longer connected to the battery and is closed in a loop.
The other number I want to know from your circuit is the voltage of the rest of it. The voltage across everything that is excluded from the led-cap part.
thank you,
jeanna

[hansvonlieven]

Stubblefield continued

Here is another article I came across on the net that I feel is relevant. It is about an experiment trying to replicate some of Dr. Hooper?s work on what he termed ?Motional E-Fields?.

The author is only known as ?Sparky?.

                                           The Motional E-Field.

This is one of my most interesting projects that I have kept private. While experimenting for several years on this project, I decided to release what information I have concerning this extremely exciting subject. The experiments I will explain could Kill you. Use Extreme caution. You have been warned, proceed at your own risk.

Lots of folks have tried in vain to build a machine that exploits the Motional E Field. The problem is a basic understanding of HOW it works. Notice, I did not say why it works. I don?t have a clue as to WHY it works. I have read everything I could find on the subject, it is vague on what?s out there about it. I will leave WHY it works to Bearden, Sweet, Kaluza-Klien and others who profess to know this. I do recommend reading "Nothing is Something" by Floyd Sweet found with a good search program. But even then he is trying to explain where this mystery potential is coming from, instead of explaining how to actually build a device to produce it.

A normal wound coil has induction. A Bifilar coil connected in reverse-Parallel {Ends Tied} has very little. We will use both in a device to exploit the MEF. The experiment will be just that, not a full time working device ready to power your house or car. Purchase {3} rolls of 24 gauge at 100 feet each magnet wire. I use the GC brand part# L3-612. Gather {2} empty plastic spools with a 1 inch bore. The GC brand comes on these 1 inch bore spools, very handy. Take {2} rolls of the 24 gauge wire and wind them on a empty spool. We are making a bifilar coil. Take your time and wind it carefully keeping the wires together as you wind. You need good balanced bifilar coil. Make sure the wires are the same length, 100 feet. When you get through, clip the ends equal and tie them together. Now test your bifilar wire. It must NOT conduct any electrical potential and or current. Hold it next to a spinning magnet assembly of sorts with a good meter set on AC. Nothing.... it must not conduct anything, this is very important. The bifilar coil will be your pick up coil, but NOT as NORMAL electrical conduction. Take your last roll of wire and leave it on the spool and we will use it as the exciter coil. These coils have no cores, and you will see why later.

Find or purchase {2} ferrite magnets 2" x 6" x 1" will do. We are only doing an experiment.

You will not have a continuous output, so go this route first. Do not use Neo's, their lattice domains are very tight. You will have to demagnetize these magnets to about 10 to 20 gauss. How you do it is up to you. One can wrap the magnets with magnet wire and dump cap voltage against the fields, or use heat. This is common, so I won?t go into that procedure here. Once the magnets are demagnetized, we need to treat them. We need to impress a 60 Hz field in the now loosened domains of the magnets. Wrap the magnets separately with 100 feet of #19 or #20 wire each. Wire these in series and connect them to a veriac on the lowest level. Go do something else for 2 or 3 hours. You can build conditioning coils on forms that slide over the magnets for easy removal and installation. After 2 or 3 hours remove the coils and check the magnets with a scope. You should see a weak 60 hz signal on the magnets. Carefully place the bifilar coil and the exciter coil between the {2} magnets. Space them as far apart as possible without the spools hanging off the edges of the magnets. use plastic ties to keep them in place.

Connect the Exciter coil to a generator at 8 to 12 volts at 2 to 3 ma at 60hz. Place a load across the bifilar coil, such as a light. See if the bulb will flash. If it does, place more bulbs in line with the load. It may even blow the bulb. This field is regulated by load. You may have to experiment with the exciter voltage to get the effect to occur. All one wishes to do is vibrate the magnet. do not overdrive the magnet with the exciter voltage. This will not last long, the magnets will loose the 60Hz signal. Perhaps Barium ferrite IS needed to keep the 60hz signal or the whole design is not shielded properly or it will always run down. Barium has high electron emissivity and promotes electron scattering when excited. The point is: Something of the electrical nature lit the bulbs from a non-conductive coil. The bifilar coil was not connected to anything but the bulbs placed between the {2} treated magnets.

Now, HOW it works. As current flows through a wire the electrons act like magnets when they MOVE. Now if they don?t move, they just have a electrical field around them. If we move this current through the bifilar coil, the magnetism cancels. But moving the electron magnetism will actually add. The magnet domains have been loosened. Their domains are not locked in a position they can shuttle some what within the structure. But they still have a very small amount of magnetism. It is like billions of small magnets vibrating about the domains because of the 60hz exciter coil. They also have a 60hz signal that we supplied to the magnets. Because they have a slight charge on top of being small magnets the E-Field will manifest into the bifilar coil. But this is not the normal conductive current. In fact any normal conductive current abounds, it will cancel the effect. This is the reason the bifilar coil must be made so carefully. You MUST have the least amount of induction in your bifilar coil as possible. This is the reason I use no core. I want a small exciter signal that does not interfere with the bifilar coil, so the exciter coil has no core either.

All the exciter coil does is vibrate the domains which have the 60hz signal placed on all those billions of atoms already that are very slightly magnetized in the domains. Moving a electrical charge against another charge by separate wire cancels the magnetism in both wires and adds.

This is the Motional E-Field.

I have added this graphic to show the experimental arrangement.

   
This experiment is of interest because here we see again the creation of a perpendicular field similar to what Stubblefield, Barbat and others are relying on, in line with Barbat?s interpretation of Helmholtz.

Hans von Lieven