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Overunity Machines Forum



Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

Started by Localjoe, October 19, 2007, 02:42:39 PM

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Bruce_TPU

Quote from: Pirate88179 on January 09, 2008, 09:11:27 PM
@ Bruce:

Great job!  I did, as you have done by tieing in your electrodes which yields better mA.  I believe this is a case for the increased surface area = more ma.  My "coil" arrangement most likely did nothing more than in crease surface area. 
(Snip)


Thank you Bill.  But..... I am not yet sure we have proved it is surface area.   ;)  Let me explain my reasoning.  I took all of the negative electrodes and placed them together.  Hardly any increase at all.  I spread them out a few inches, and still not much increase over baseline, of mA's.  I continued to increase the distance for each one until I found the sweet spot for each.

I think coming up with a cell/coil/rod that gives us max amps.  Then run this east to west on the neutral side.  Then experiment with carbon combinations, and run this east west for max Voltage.  Just my initial thinking.

I also think we need to find out if the AC volts you are picking up are real.  Using an inverter from Radio shack and see if your DC volts increase when measuring the output from the inverter.  I am not getting any AC, but my meter is mainly for DC.  AC readings of 200 v. and 500 v. only.  So not very sensitive to lower ac voltage.

We are making progress, I think.

I would suggest, stripping the wire off of your coil (I know you will hate that)  then rebury it.  See if there is any change in ma's.  If so, then we know the wire coil is having some effect.  If not, strip another piece, until you see a change.  This way you will know which part (or all) of your coil is the reason for the increased ma's. 

This is a pain, but we do not want to jump to any conclusions on anything, just yet.  IMHO.

Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

Pirate88179

@ Bruce:

Yes, wow, that would be a pain.  It took me like 4 hours to wind it in that configuration.  but, possibly I have already tested what you have asked.  Earlier, I had tied the 2 zinc spikes together with the 3 mag blocks and got a decent mA reading. (posted earlier)  the only difference as I see it is the copper windings now added, and the fact that all of the above are burried in the same hole.  Not a perfect control but still relevant I think.  I think an easier test would be to buy antoher , or 2 zinc spikes and wind one with copper wire (very easy to do in that configuration) and test it against a bare zinc spike.  What are your thoughts on this?  Every time I add more surface area by tying the +'s together and the -'s I get a decent increase in ma. Freezer's design with the sheets is the way to go I think.  I mean, if you look back at what I started with and what I get now, that is good progress but, not the progress we need.  I still want to learn how to wind a bifilar coil using copper and steel wire to see what happens.

@ Freezer:

My garden is about 10 feet from a tree and the roots are everywhere in the ground of the garden.  I can't (not allowed) to dig near the tree as I am a renter here. Also, the gardener would run over my wires with the lawnmower. I like the sheet idea of mag. and carbon.  Let's all look to see what we can find out there.  both are easily machinable with hand tools so, no problem there.  I do have to caution people about drilling magnesium.  I took a handful of my shavings and hit them with a spark....poof...5,000 degrees F!!!  The blocks are safe, the shavings are not. And yes, I also found these do NOT work like regular batteries. I found that out when attempting to hook into series. (The standard way)

@ Hans:

Hey, I think I may have finally found a way to test your idea of the underground pipe system.  Here, where I live, the water pipes are the ground for the home electrical boxes.  So, I have an outlet inside my front door which is only about 10 feet from my experimental garden.  I can make a pin to fit into the "ground" part of the outlet and wire that to the cell outside and see what happens.  Of course, if I get great results and make a video on youtube, when people see a wire coming out of an outlet they will think I am a fraud. Ha ha.  Anyway, I will run this test soon and post. It was too good an idea to give up on.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

jeanna

Bill,
QuoteThe blocks are safe, the shavings are not. And yes, I also found these do NOT work like regular batteries. I found that out when attempting to hook into series. (The standard way)

What's that? What happened? carbon -mg- c -mg didn't act like series? What DID you get from that?

jeanna

Pirate88179

@ Jeanna:
0!  That's what I got every time I attempted what I believe to be series.  I took it to be a short.  That is what I thought you were attempting to avoid by using your pots as a seperator of sorts.

Here is a tip for you.  I believe you said you were using 1/4" rods (carbon) right?  what I did was to get a broom handle and cut it off.  This was the same 1" dia. as my rods.  I used that to pound down into the ground and then, instaled my rods.  Then, I dumped some water over the instaled rods to help the soil decompress from the broom handle. (real high tech here)  you could find some 1/4" steel rod or something and do the same.  Just try not to go deeper with the steel than you need for your carbon.  Then, pour water over it to help it "seal" to the earth.  Thought this might help a little.  better to hit rocks with the steel instead of the carbon. I believe we are on the verge of a giant leap in our little battery experiments.  I think i have gone as far as I can go with my setup so, I am l looking into a "Freezer" style plate configuration next.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

jeanna

Quote from: Pirate88179 on January 10, 2008, 12:21:56 AM
@ Jeanna:
0!  That's what I got every time I attempted what I believe to be series.  I took it to be a short.  That is what I thought you were attempting to avoid by using your pots as a seperator of sorts.

Here is a tip for you.  I believe you said you were using 1/4" rods (carbon) right?  what I did was to get a broom handle and cut it off.  This was the same 1" dia. as my rods.  I used that to pound down into the ground and then, instaled my rods.  Then, I dumped some water over the instaled rods to help the soil decompress from the broom handle. (real high tech here)  you could find some 1/4" steel rod or something and do the same.  Just try not to go deeper with the steel than you need for your carbon.  Then, pour water over it to help it "seal" to the earth.  Thought this might help a little.  better to hit rocks with the steel instead of the carbon. I believe we are on the verge of a giant leap in our little battery experiments.  I think i have gone as far as I can go with my setup so, I am l looking into a "Freezer" style plate configuration next.

Bill
Thanks I will try your broomstick Idea. These rocks are something else.
I guess I thought you got 0 in series but not in the earth. I have no excuse. I was probably looking at my led being powered by a piece of Al foil and a carbon pencil in some washing soda. I must have gotten carried away with some indoor success.  nevermind
My cement pots are still charging a bit so I don't want to give up on this yet.It took about 5 days the last time I moved them. I am thinking I could make them deep and put 2 electrodes in each and maybe not need to use the whole back yard to do the battery.
The hardest thing for me now is the connections. The carbon pencil just doesn't want to keep the solder. I may need to tear apart the carbon rods to make 4 cells. They aren't giving me as much voltage as the other things. I washed them after etching off the copper, Iron Chloride - maybe there is a little still on there. maybe I need to scrub them.

jeanna