Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[jeanna]

                                                                                                    Joe

Hi Joe,

I think I was answering a different question.

I thought Bill was trying to figure how much wire he would need to buy after he figured how many winds and layers to turn.

Perhaps, I misunderstood his question. sorry.

Oh wait, maybe this is what you are answering too. I am not sure, because the diameter changes each time you add a layer and so pi times that makes the number grow a lot faster than a simple proportion.

I think what you are suggesting here will only work for one layer.

jeanna

[Localjoe]

@jeanna

yea your right same question, i was just thinking down a future path.  It would be advantageous after inital models to wind the primary coils to a set inductance that way we can calc freq easliy when the time comes. I figured it a step in the right direction.. The diameter shouldnt matter in the end just the inductance calculation for the freq.      IF we go the relay way, if we use a rotary spark gap powered seperatly all this becomes in concenquencial after we secure a viable ammt of current in the primary becuase that would set the freq a diff way.
                                                                                                        Joe

[one]

This means to me that the ground is sucking the voltage that the coil is producing. Or something along those lines, like the mag field of the earth is in conflict with the coil...

Jenna

My gut  feeling about this is that  you  didn't choose a  " good "  location

It  would be interesting  if you could   try a few other  locations .

I remember  reading  somewhere about  Stubblefield connecting   large wires to tree roots 
and something about  under large oak  trees being a  preferred spot


gary

[jeanna]

My gut  feeling about this is that  you  didn't choose a  " good "  location

It  would be interesting  if you could   try a few other  locations .
gary

OK Gary,

I guess you got me to critical mass.

I checked 3 new spots. They are all a little different and none very much 15mv the most from the usual spot.

There is a test I do but don't report which is I put the cu 5 wire onto the head of the spike in the ground and continue to read the 10's. The voltage changes. .

Now, in my regular spot this action makes the voltage drop to 0 then maybe -3 or -6 mvdc. strange, I thought but maybe just a meter thing.

In one of the spots that I just tried (I have a geodesic dome frame there) this voltage drop goes all the way to -38mvdc!!!

Now that is NOT a meter thing.

What I think we are missing by just checking the 10's is the spike in the ground.

I think this spike is a very important part of the whole invention. It is insulated with insulation that according to the wording could be different from the cloth around the cu wire.

This opinion is what gave rise to the idea to see if touching a copper stake or carbon rods a distance from the original coil would have much effect.

The fact that it did, makes me think even more that this is important. It added to my total voltage yesterday by a good bit.

Shorting the 5,6 takes away the voltage all the way to zero if you leave them shorted.

Using a supercap does almost the same thing as shorting but not completely.. (BTW I checked to make sure I had not blown up the cap. I had not.)

This is a pretty good list of interesting properties to check out.

Please someone with a working coil do the replication thing here. I am willing to stand forth with a new idea, but since this is a new idea forum, please, folks, feel free to join me.

Does anybody with a working coil have an oscilloscope? That instrument may tell the tale here.
Bruce??

Jeanna

[one]

Does anybody with a working coil have an oscilloscope? That instrument may tell the tale here.
Bruce??

Jeanna

Jenna

It is interesting that  you asked this  question

I received the answer to this question  earlier today          just beofore 3 PM  eastern time

It was addressed to you  ..........but it  was emailed to me for some reason.

Hello Jenna,
This is a very long email, please bear with me for someone who you have not heard from before, but I have posted 1time.

I am electricme, I live in Australia and have been following the group you are in, looking at NS earth cells, very interresting indeed.
I have decided to contact you because you seem to be the person who has the most consisted posts in this forum and I wouldn't mind putting my 2 cents worth in.

Up to today, I have been measuring my own project using 2 DMM meters but as I see, no one seems to have done any measurements using an "OSCILLOPE" I had better get my behind into gear and start the ball rolling.

Most people don't have a CRO, so I recommend everyone that is on this forum go out and invest in one, they range from "giveaways (rarely like mine) to very expensive items, but Dick Smith Electroniucs in Australia has a very basic model going at a very cheep price, I might get one this weekend, to verify my initial readings. (E-Bay might have them also)

Jenna, today I fired up the old B&W 511 CRO (oscillope) and attatched it to the copper and Aluminum pipes I have driven in the ground, and I got a result, a very surprising one indeed. I'm lasy at heart, so I took a old extension lead, cut the plug and socket off, connected the output of my earth probes to one end, fed it through my kitchen window and connected that end to the inputs of the CRO.

Before I go into this, I will explain very briefly in laymans terms how the cro works.

The CRO works almost the same as a TV set, basically, the electronics inside the CRO puts a beam of electrons in a single point or "beam" which looks like a "DOT (.)"
This dot can be made to be stationery or be able to be moved at verious speeds from the Left side of the screen to the Right side of the screen.

YOU control the CRO and beam speed, it dosent control you. Don't be frightened of all the controls.

There are various knobs and switches on the CRO to let you alter the intensity, focus and speed of the beam.
You can make the beam move slow to fast or very fast or blindingly fast from left to right on the screen.

Now depending on what you want to meassure, you alter the switches to see whats hapenning inside the circuit you are testing.
I need to explain how a CRO works so you or anyone reading this can follow my own earth testing results.

To begin, lets test a simple 1.5volt DC battery D cell

"Fire UP the CRO" which means to turn on the power switch. (cheeky technical speek) lol.

In a couple of minutes you should see a moving line going across the centre of the screen, we want to stop its Left to Right movement, so look for the TIME BASE switch, turn it backwards until the beam begins to slow then stop until the beam is stationary.
Lower the brightness control because the beam will become intense in a stationary position.

Now find the VOLT switch and move the knob until it is showing 5 or 2, this sets the "voltage range" (same as on your DMM), if you were to measure a 12v DC battery, set the range to 20.

So to test a simple battery, say a 1.5 v DC cell, on your DMM, you select the DC scale, then connect the probes, POS to POS and NEG to NEG. You can see the reading of 1.5 on the DMM

Now swap the DMM for the CRO.
Connect the POS cro probe to the POS terminal of the battery, the NEG probe to the NEG battery terminal, the beam will rise upwards (1.5 divisions on the scale)showing the result, eg 1.5Volts.
Release the battery probes, the beam will return automatically to the center of the screen.

Now connect the probes back to front, (it wont hurt the CRO) the beam nows dropps below the centre line, and downwards and shows a negative result -1.5 volts.

Now remove the 1.5 DC battery, if you have a mains power transformer and know what the primary and secondaries are you can do the next experiment, but take care, if you have the wrong setting you could burn out your new CRO.

OK a transformer has a PRIMARY and a SECONDARY, the energy from the 110 or 240 volts AC go into the PRIMARY (we will NOT be measuring this side), only the SECONDARY output which has a much lower voltage.

Set the VOLT scale to read 50 (the highest on my cro), now using alligator clips, connect your probes to the SECONDARY leads, (they should be much thicker transforler wires) now look at the screen on the CRO, you should see the beam going wildly in very small steps up and down 60times a second, if you are in USA or 50times a second if you live in Australia.

Now adjust the CRO to make the image bigger or smaller with the VOLT knob switch.
SEE its easy.

You will see the green beam go VERTICAL, now go to the TIME BASE switch and begin to turn it, the "waveform" should now appear, the beam going up and down quite fast, see the SINE wave?
SEEE you got control of this thing called a CRO, you can have a LOT OF FUN with a CRO.

OK so now, by experience you can see how the "waveform" appears on the CRO screen, that was an example to get you familiar with what you might see on a CRO.

There are several controls, too many to explain to you right now what each one does, so only the simple ones I will point out to you.
There is the "FOCUS" control, this can make the "BEAM" a wide round disk to see on the screen or a fine pinpointed DOT

(everyone has a "focus" pot inside their TV set), to get to it take off the back cover, look for the thick RED wire ffrom the top of the picture tube and track it back to a big black 3inches high, thick thing on the main board.
Look on its side, you will see 1 or 2 small adjustment screws, don't touch them with your finger, if they are leaking you will get a coronial discharge. Use a insulated screwdriver to adjust while looking at the front of the screen.
If you see a bright line 1 inch apart appear (thats the BEAM current maj adj), back it off untill they dissapear,
(Wrong pot go to next one).
Now turn the next pot with your screwdriver again, look at the TV image, if it gets out of focus, turn the screwdriver the other way until the picture is in focus.

Thats how to adjust the focus on your TV set and I saved you $100 bucks for a tech call out.

OK back to the cro
There is the BEAM control which let you decide how much brightness you want the beam to have, be careful with it, if you have it turned on full it can burn the phosphor on the screen leaving a perminent burn mark.
Turn it down so it is a good image, not too bright, and hasnt got any flaring.

OK now, remember we can use the cro to take a reading of our two pipes we have in the ground.(or our Bi Fillier wound NS cell).

One is a copper pipe, which is the + POSitave and the other is the Aluminium pipe which happens to be the NEGative.

Before we connect the CRO to our earth experiments, we need to figure out what CRO settings to set it at.
As we know, by previous measurements, the cell output shown on a DMM is anything from .00000volts DC or AC to say 1.5 volts AC or DC.

As I know my own earth rod readings fall in the below 2 volt range then I can lower the VOLT on the CRO to 2 (actually I have it on .2 of a Volt, the TIME BASE switch is on 5mS which is 5 milli seconds right now)

Now I connect the CRO probes to each of the pipes, and take a look at the screen.

And there is a slight reading, to take a better look at it, I move the VOLT range lower to .2 of a volt and the TIMEBASE range to 5mS. (this makes the image bigger)

OK, I can now see the displayed "waveform" on the screen of the CRO. and by "reading" it I am getting very excited because I can see a complex waveform.

OK looking from the right to the left of the screen.
The waveform enters from the middle left, goes to a short spike upwards 1/4", downwards 1/2", travels upwards and out 3/4", slopes downwards to the right 1/2", goes up to middle, then rises higher 1/2", falls rapidly 3/4" rises and falls rapidly in a ringing fashion, then repeats the same again, except it is a oppersate mirror, (but the ringing waveform does not change) then it reverses to the discription I first gave, then does the same again and again and again infinitemum.

I will take a photo of this shortly after I figure out how to knobble the flash, mabe some thick duct tape. grin

My diagnosis is this. There is the DC component which is indicating a slowl rise and lowering with some spiking, there is the AC component which is indicated by the RINGING comoponent. The AC seems to be comprised and a part of the DC which is interspaced between the DC component.

Very interesting indeed, It could be a product of the internals of the CRO, but I dont think so.I have not seen this before.
I disconnected the POS connection and the CRO displayed a flat line, the waveform only appeared when I reconnect the POS connectioon.
Will it do the same if I remove the NEG probe lead?
Well Well Well I get a triangle waveform. 1/"up 1/2"down, 1/2"up, 1/2"down ad infinitum.

jenna, I reconnect the NEG probe lead, I adjust the VOLT to .05v and TIME BASE to 1mS (milli second) and get another amazing surprise, I see a waveform comprising a Ringing component and just behind the ringing after it tapers to an end there is a waveform which appears and dissapears every 3 seconds like the letter M.

Now folks, I just don't know what I'm looking at here, but this is very interresting ground breaking information.
I havent any idea what it is or what is causing this, has anyone else decided to do this?

jenna, you may post this in the forum if you wish, I'm a bit shy.
This just might answer some questions some of the forum techno heads have.

Jim   

are time warps   part  of  the  earth battery  bag of tricks ?




gary