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Overunity Machines Forum



Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

Started by EMdevices, November 12, 2007, 11:49:58 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 20 Guests are viewing this topic.

sanmankl

@all,

Just got back this morning from a long flight and right now, I'm back tinkering this micro-tpu. :D

This evening, I'd noticed something odd.

I had my "all-copper" tpu running with just 1 blue LED and at around .8V, the blinking stops and when I put my fingers to the LED legs, it starts blinking again right down to .4V...I haven't tried a separate grounding for the circuit yet....but I think I will....Don't know what's going on but certainly the human body aids the LED blinking.... ;D

Secondly, I rewound my iron wire (recycled from previous "iron coil" to another torroid. It's my biggest I have. OD is 72mm and I "suspect" it's a "pure" iron one. It's definitely not a composite. Coil turns are as follows: Collector: 22 turns (iron wire) , Recapture: 14 turns (iron wire) and Trigger at 12 turns. All turns comes to fill up about 1/3 of the torroid and my run time is 26 minutes. Did the test twice. Verified correct. Modified EM's circuit in two areas. My LED + goes to coil and the negative goes to GND. Changed cap to 220nF instead of 1uF. Run time longer with 220nF. Played around with 470nF. Result is almost the same with 220nF.

EDIT: Winding for the above is straight (no overlay) Collector, Recapture and Trigger. Equally spaced between these three coils.

I've been examining my stash of torroids and after going through the torroids with many coillings; I can only deduce that the composite ones performs poorly when compared to the iron ones.

By the way, I picked up 2 rolls of iron wire at my local tesco. It's called "garden wire" Comes in 60 feet roll. It's not the same quality as my white-coated  iron wire but I'm not complaining paying about US$0.80 per roll.

Managed to kill another 2 Blue LEDs and a 2N2904 in the process.....

Next stop: wound the big torroid and test.

Cheers, cp


wattsup

@guys

When you mention cap values, please include the voltage rating also since this can change dramatically the device performance.

Also, I think each builder should chose one of their former posts and keep a build spec updated there and include the location of the build in your slogan section like @Acerzw has under each of his posts. This way we, you can still add new posts of changes, etc.,  but have a link to your standard build somewhere on the thread.

Just a suggestion.

I have a lot of radio ferrite antennas (rod and flat types) that already have one two or three coils wound on them as standard design. Tried a first one having three coils and the led blinked right away, but only lasted 12 seconds with a 4 volts charge. I'm only charging to 4 volts cause I'm tired of blowing my leds and putting a resistor before the led just eats more juice.

tak22


here's a new run time target for you .... 1000 years  ;)

from Everyday Practical Electronics, December 2006

"this circuit will brightly flash an ultrabright LED at 0.5Hz for more than twenty years ââ,¬â€œ drawing 12μA off six high capacity AA batteries. If the component values are used, it will flash, although more dimly, for close
to one thousand years ââ,¬â€œ drawing just 0.3μA"

just a little humour, or maybe something to learn from ...

tak


HopeForHumanity

So does the length of the wire around the torroid have any relation to the frequency of the led flashing?
Ron Paul is internet overunity: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXnBZd4nyWk

WE MUST STOP THIS! Free energy is being surpressed because of it!

Bruce_TPU

Quote from: acerzw on December 02, 2007, 01:08:28 PM
@btenzer

If you reduce your cap it will be interesting to see if the run-time drops in exact proportion or differs...

Have you tried placing your cap in your coil?

Acerzw
@ Acer

I haven't tried the cap inside my toroid yet.  I will get to that experiment soon though. 

And I too was wondering if the run time would drop in direct proportion to the uf reduction of the main cap.  I will stop and Radio Shack tomorrow and buy an electrolytic 450uf or 500uf depending on what's available.

Quote from: sanmankl on December 02, 2007, 01:26:58 PM
@all,

Just got back this morning from a long flight and right now, I'm back tinkering this micro-tpu. :D

This evening, I'd noticed something odd.

I had my "all-copper" tpu running with just 1 blue LED and at around .8V, the blinking stops and when I put my fingers to the LED legs, it starts blinking again right down to .4V...I haven't tried a separate grounding for the circuit yet....but I think I will....Don't know what's going on but certainly the human body aids the LED blinking.... ;D

Secondly, I rewound my iron wire (recycled from previous "iron coil" to another torroid. It's my biggest I have. OD is 72mm and I "suspect" it's a "pure" iron one. It's definitely not a composite. Coil turns are as follows: Collector: 22 turns (iron wire) , Recapture: 14 turns (iron wire) and Trigger at 12 turns. All turns comes to fill up about 1/3 of the torroid and my run time is 26 minutes. Did the test twice. Verified correct. Modified EM's circuit in two areas. My LED + goes to coil and the negative goes to GND. Changed cap to 220nF instead of 1uF. Run time longer with 220nF. Played around with 470nF. Result is almost the same with 220nF.

EDIT: Winding for the above is straight (no overlay) Collector, Recapture and Trigger. Equally spaced between these three coils.

I've been examining my stash of torroids and after going through the torroids with many coillings; I can only deduce that the composite ones performs poorly when compared to the iron ones.

By the way, I picked up 2 rolls of iron wire at my local tesco. It's called "garden wire" Comes in 60 feet roll. It's not the same quality as my white-coated  iron wire but I'm not complaining paying about US$0.80 per roll.

Managed to kill another 2 Blue LEDs and a 2N2904 in the process.....

Next stop: wound the big torroid and test.

@ sanmankl
If you could post a picture of your newly wound coil, that would be appreciated.  I must try to locate pure iron insulated wire.  I suspect the wire I used the other day was an alloy.  It was made in china, and does not say.  It was probably lead wire!  LOL   ;D

You may want to try higher voltage rated LED's and Transistor if you keep frying them.  That may turn out to be a good thing!

Touching the LED and it comes on, well, that is just strange.  I will try that tonight when mine dies.

Welcome back to the hunt.   ;)

@ All
This afternoon I spent a great deal of time carefully reducing all of my circuit wires, by at least half, and sometimes eliminating them altogether.  I am now testing to see if this has increased my time.  I will let you know if it does.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.