Bedini replication in Germany

[albert]

Hello in the new year,

here is the new Motor, still without coils

[albert]

..and here with two of the coils from the other machine, wiring is still "rats nest" type....


I think you guys might be right about the bearing blocks, they might create drag on the rotor because of the eddy currents.

I cannot say much about the performance yet. will keep you posted!

Albert

[albert]

Hello to everybody,
I have not had the time to post anything because the second machine gave me a handful of problems. 'I had to remove the aluminum frame since it was acting as a perfect brake because of the eddy currents generated by the magnets. (If I could get my hands on that Eddy.... )   
Next thing: The ballbearings. Had to open them up, remove the covers, clean out the grease. Lubricated with a light oil, the rotor ran now for five minutes when I turned it by hand.
This also made it possible to balance it. I drilled small holes on the rear side to get rid of excess weight on one side. then I still needed a couple of grams to get dynamic balance. Now it runs almost without vibration and up to 2000 rpm. Before, it was ready to jump off the table let me tell ya. So far my magnets have held. I don't want to be in there when one comes off. but my low energy setup runs at low speeds anyway.
WIRING is of the utmost importance. I use the biggest wire I could lay my hands on for the buss out. this greatly improves everything. The impedance has to be right. the test wiring with the alligator clamps did not work at all- the big wires do.

[albert]

I had a chance to get bigger batteries from a surplus dealer. 50 AH gel cells - from UMTS cell phone amplifiers- used as backups. Old but cheap. they now have the chance to get better under the Bedini charge....

[albert]

The new machine runs for more than 12 hours without switching the batteries. I found out that most of the problems encountered in battery swapping come from a misunderstanding. A lead acid battery cannot be quick-charged, even with the high voltage charge. Bedini's word "You have to charge on Nature's Curve" is dead right. the system is 24 volts!
If you take it slowly not trying to force electrons into the battery the charge will hold. I now run the machine at 700 mA at 24 Volts. this is way below the c/20 rate and i could run for days if necessary. Long runs are what we need- no one has tried to make a prolonged test so far. the new bats are not conditioned yet so they run down in time but very slowly. In 36 hours the voltmeter went from 49.8 to 49.6 volts with several swaps in this time. The rotor ran at a good 1500 rpm all the time.

For checking I use a voltmeter between the two battery banks - from secondary plus to primary minus. This shows the sum voltage. I put a switch into the trigger line of the machine - this way I can turn it on and off without breaking the contact to the batteries. Now if I switch the running machine on and off the voltmeter should not move at all. This is the correct setting for bat swapping. The batts dont "feel" the machine at all- the charge flows very slowly from one bank to the other and the rotor runs for free. Paddle wheel in a river- that is it....
the REAL magic is when you measure the current. I use a clamp ammeter so I can again measure things without opening the circuit. this meter has an error because it is for 50 Hz sinus waves only. But since the pulse frequency is the same on input or output, the error is the same on both lines . what I want to see is the RELATION between the currents. I get almost exactly 50 % of the input current- 700 mA in means about 400 mA out. Now WHAT IS CHARGING THE BATTERY? the voltmeter does not move for 12 hours straight- the output charges at the same rate the input is discharging at. So this is the clear proof that the secondary battery is not charged by CURRENT. Bedini is right again....
Another important thing: I switched from the old 3055 transistors to the BD 243 C . Much better. and the trigger current from one wire on the three coils could not open up the transistors completely. they became very hot on long runs. I overcame this by connecting the two unused wires on the other coils in parallel to the trigger. (My coils on this machine are 2x 0.8mm and 1x 0.6 mm for the trigger.)
With this setup and two pots in series I can run the machine in solid state mode, too. The coils start to beep. this showed me that there is not much of a difference whether the rotor runs or not. The relation between input and output current varies  a little, and with the rotor running one can use higher currents.