Steven Mark`s TPU

[szaxx]

@otto
I have followed your posts on many threads and think your knowledge of tubes (valves uk) and connecting these to your devices may be increased by a read of the ARRL  or the RSGB radio communication manuals. I think you may gleam a lot of information from these as I have over the years. It will teach you all you need to know in easy to understand pages about coupling and resonance etc. I hope to give you more understanding of how radio works, so you can include this knowledge in your designs and maybe save yourself another full waste box of tubes or fets  lol!!! I am also another ham radio guy and built my first radio at 9 years old then at 12 went on to transmitters. love electronics and love your circuit ides too. I have not read enough information yet on TPU technology from this site but I have a lot of ideas on conventional theory for dissolvig to free energy as yourself. May the force be with you!!! will join in more soon just need more research on ..........??


ENJOY LIFE FOR ONE DAY WE WILL FREE THE WORLD.
made this up, sounds true lol!!!

[otto]

Hello all,

@szaxx

it was 35 years ago when I learned everything about tubes, how they work, how to connect them, how...but then came the time to learn about the ICs and all the digital stuff and I learned this because its my job.

As I was all the time working on my TPUs I didnt had the time to refresh my memory but then there was a point when I saw that I didnt have a chance to continue in my TPU work and the solution was to sit on my ass and reread a lot of tubes stuff from my very old books. Be sure I did it!

Yesterday my 1. oscillator gave me signals. Something like square waves. My biggest problem is that I dont have caps in picofarads and all the parts needed for tube oscillators and I doubt that I can buy them here in my town. A few phone calls and I will know it. Yes, I can buy old radios but the price is 50 Euros for each and I need 3 of them. If I find them!!

I found this site for capacitors: http://www.oppermann-electronic.de. Maybe I can buy my caps from them??
For 50 euros I can buy everything needed for my oscillators. As you can see, used old radios are expensive here.

Otto

[Gustav22]

Hi Roberto,
just want to quickly let you know what I am doing.
As I told you, I want to wind my own version based on the 3stack.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3660.msg62585.html#msg62585
I have done some calculations. In fact I started to wind it.

But now I am getting more and more convinced, that one important factor is that
the collectors should be from litz wire, i.e. 2 parallel conductors (aka lamp wire) each made from "real litz".
Others have pointed it out, and also you yourself told me so.
This wire must be braided the same way a rope is, so that the magnetic fields around the individual strands get partially auto-canceled, so that the resistance/impedance/CEMF of the collector turns diminishes.

If this is achieved, all the usual calculations for copper coils become irrelevantly as the formulas are based on normal wire geometry, I think. Namely the balance between the (di-)electric and the magnetic component of such a braided conductor becomes different i.e. we can achieve a weaker magnetic field per unit of current or - when seen the other way round - more current without this silly, impeding, magnetic field.
So I think that braiding strands is a way to shift the behavior of copper towards that of a supra-conductor.
After all EEs used braided wire for antennas because they could get more signal strength (power) out than with normal wire.

Watching Dr. Stiffler's experiments, it is obvious that the characteristics of a coil from braided wire (his 'antenna coil') is a major factor.
I think he is presently concentrating on improving his exciter and especially the geometry of the transmitter element, but he may start working on strengthening the pickup/collector part soon, who knows.

So I will have to undo the ring I have prepared and first organize some wire, which I think will make good collectors.

[ronotte]

Hi Gustav22,

I do confirm that Litz wire (at least with 45 isolated and roped thin wires...better if 450 thin wires....) are far superior than stranded non-isolated electrical wire. So do use Litz..if you find it!

In the past I wired a TPU using for collector both electrical stranded wire and Litz wire....just to see the difference: Litz always far superior!!!  So I thoght to use the much cheaper standard wire for all the  tests while reserving the Litz once found a proper solution...

GOOD LUCK for your TPU.

For my side yesterday I did lot of tests with TPU V10-7 trying many sets of 3 freqs and various other tricks. The best output is in following pic taken on load before the rectifying station.

You can see that it is RELEVANT as all the scope's screen is full (about 400V ptp, all in first quadrant) of mostly formed sinusoidal waveform , slowly pulsating at about 0.5 Hz and with peak power probably exceeding 120W-150W and of course....almost full superposition of the 3 freqs  .
Input is with 3 freqs in 10-100KHz range and duty-cycle of about 5%  (2microseconds wide pulses).

"The 3-Sisters appearing both on sinus main ramp-up and ramp-down are for the first time clearly seen"

The up-mentioned results, UNIQUE OF THIS KIND I HAVE EVER SEEN, do prove that Dfro suggestions were CORRECT indeed.

Roberto

[BEP]

Your scope shot is the best I've seen from anywhere. I see three pulses on the creation of the main rise and another three on the main fall. To me this indicates conter rotation or two directions.
This is the best example of 'three sisters' I've seen on this forum.

@Gustav22

By all means please confirm your own ideas. However, I have many wire antennas in use. None are made of woven wire because the interleaving hinders performance at the very low frequencies. The only time it works well is when it is not a weave like a rope but straight as in well combed hair. This is true for transmission line (twin-lead) or antenna elements. The most noticeable difference is the noise level. Whistlers do much better with straight wire.