Muller Dynamo

[i_ron]

Hi,
I understand what you are saying but this is exactly how I used the circuit and it works just fine.As I said before, other people here have replicated that circuit and worked perfec, I think woopy is one of them.I had it running as is from 3.5 volt input to 18v input.
That resistor has a role in my understanding, I don't care in general about the info presented about a product, I am always trying to see it my way and in general I was right.
As I said it works as is.

LOL, I didn't say it didn't work, just that it may not be "good engineering"

Lots of people will be getting their first taste of electronics here now this is out and as a first step it would be best to present the hall in a manner that they can build on latter. As it is this works only on a PNP transistor. When you come to advance to the next level this simplification will not work.

It is working simply by taking the base to ground on activation then letting "leakage" currents take it back to a positive potential to turn off the transistor. All I was suggesting was that this could lead to sloppy imprecise timing.

But again, thank you for sharing the fruits of your research here, it is much appreciated.  One question... is the 'helper' magnet separated from the back of the coil by the full thickness of the acrylic? Would you confirm that the switching is to attract in?

Thanks

Ron

[void109]

Found this video on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArEjBIlKUes

This guy looks to have built a working muller device as well, just on a larger scale

Here's his website, he's logged what he's done

http://home.mchsi.com/~actt2/index.html

So it looks like this Muller dynamo has been independently replicated!

[romerouk]

LOL, I didn't say it didn't work, just that it may not be "good engineering"

Lots of people will be getting their first taste of electronics here now this is out and as a first step it would be best to present the hall in a manner that they can build on latter. As it is this works only on a PNP transistor. When you come to advance to the next level this simplification will not work.

It is working simply by taking the base to ground on activation then letting "leakage" currents take it back to a positive potential to turn off the transistor. All I was suggesting was that this could lead to sloppy imprecise timing.

But again, thank you for sharing the fruits of your research here, it is much appreciated.  One question... is the 'helper' magnet separated from the back of the coil by the full thickness of the acrylic? Would you confirm that the switching is to attract in?

Thanks

Ron

I understand now.I know there is a lot of improvement that can be done on driving circuit.I used something I tested and used many times before. Any driver circuit will do, even simple bedini if the driving coils are made that way.
The 'helper magnet' is separated from the coil by the thickness of the acrylic (1cm).On the acrylic is glued  a 1mm/20mm washer then the magnet on top.
I am driving in attraction mode. I have started the project in repulsion then tried attraction. I get much better torque in attraction.
I have spent about one month to do all this testings and adjustments. Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier.The gap from the rotor to the coil I had it increased and decreased hundreds of times to get it right.

All the best,
RomeroUK

[nul-points]

Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier

All the best,
RomeroUK

hi Romero

is it possible to provide a simple sketch for the connection of the 'extra diodes'?

many thanks
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com

[romerouk]

hi Romero

is it possible to provide a simple sketch for the connection of the 'extra diodes'?

many thanks
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com

no need for a sketch, they are in parallel with the one inside the rectifier