Muller Dynamo

[Aphasiac]

@plengo,  you are messing with my scheme of saving all the pages here as they keep changing and numbers change.     Oh well good riddance to tommy troll. 

@plengo:

I do agree with this. One of the advantages to leaving the pages fully intact is that when someone says "Where in this thread did someone say...," then it is easy for me or EM2 to do a quick text search of the pages and direct people.

I did a test of this yesterday, and with the missing posts, it becomes much less effective.

I also agree that it's nice to get rid of the junk. Maybe, Fausto, if you could agree not to go back more than 10 pages from the current one, we could save up to the the most recent 10 pages and know they will remain constant?

Thoughts?

Mark.

[konehead]

As far as diodes go, there are two places you are going to use them, and one place is recovering the backemf/recoil from the motor coil's pulsing and for this shottkys should have an advantage not so much because of any voltage-drop but because of fact they operate so much faster than regular diodes and so will catch more of the instantaneous backward spikes/backemf that happens at motor-coil switch turn-off.
But for the  genrator coil diodes, just regular FWBRs should work fine however Romero did trick I've never seen or heard of before wher he "rings" the standard FWBR with some 4001 diodes also in FWBR configurationand he said he got a couple more volts that way which is alot so definely try that out see what happens.
Hector gave me great idea long ago and that is put a single shottky diode on just one of the AC lines from the gernator coils to the FWBR and this will give you some more volts in the cap too (for some reason dont know why for sure) sometimes it works great sometimes no difference at all so this might work well too in some of your builds......

[toranarod]

Picture Bottom Stator plate eventually cutout, took a lot of hours and Top Stator plate on the machine now.

Here is a picture of it cutout and M4/M3 threaded brass inserts press fitted.
The channels are to run the wires in.

Picture attached of Coil side populated.
Switches will swap polarity of coils.

And picture Connection side with washers for the biasing magnets.

Just got to run the wires now

There is no way the top plate will be finished tonight, so will have to wait till next weekend.

Cheers

Sean.

Hello CLaNZeR
are you still there do you have a processor to control the system. I would like to talk to about the timing of the pulse and duration.
I have recored some very interesting figures. I have already seen an ou output just from the recovery system.
I know you have the electronics back ground     

[plengo]

Thought I would share this video that RomeroUK sent me before the Muller Replication.

He managed to get motors to speed up before when applying a load, but the Muller Design enabled it to go to the next level and be self sustaining.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEaY17NeK_I&feature=channel_video_title

Do not ask me too much on this setup, but it uses the same circuit and same feedback circuit for harvesting the output of the PU.
The core in this pickup coil is MU-Metal.

Cheers

Sean

Clanzer, as the usual, BEAUTIFUL man. Thank you. Great work too and you did not miss anything. Keep up the great work you are doing.

That video makes me really confirm one of Thains Heins therory presented on the 'Muller for Experimentatlists'. It is indeed a coil with high number of turns of very small diameter wire that causes that effect as well explained by Thains (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=10716.msg286635#msg286635). This only corroborates RomeroUK validity.


Guys, no more insults please. If you have a question about someone personality (out of the context of this thread) use the Personal Message for it.

I will not go back from 10 pages and remove anything only from now on. Too late and it is for history that ALL can see that noise is a nuance and not good. So will keep deleting anything that is not in the context. I already created threads for other kind of discussions.

Feel free to complain to Stefan if you think I am not doing a good moderation.

Fausto.

edit: I will only remove the content of the "non-compliant post". A nice member explained to me the problem with removing the links and breaking references. Now I got. So though to be dumb!!

[konehead]

whenever I build a mullergenerator type of thing (have built lots of them for 9yrs) the most problematic things is that rotor to be spinning absolutely flat with no wobble - so that you couldnt see it spin at all if it was a totally flat disc -
and othe thing farily difficult to get right is  the tightness of the airgap betweenteh coils/cores and the rotor magnets.

Almost always the plastic you buy will not be perfectly flat from the store, so if you have a planer, run it through that a few times before making the cut out for the disc.
What i do however (since I dont have a planer),  is mount the magnets in rotor so that they stick out a few millimeters, and the magnets are not flush with the face of the rotor surface.
Then when you get the chassis together, and you spin the rotor by hand against the coils and cores already mounted, you can check one by one the air-gap distance between each of the rotor magnets, and pick a specific coil/core to check each magnet;s airgap distance against.
Then keep track, like magnet no1 is 1/mm to low, and the magnet no5 magnet is 1/4mm to high etc etc  and then take out rotor and knock with plastic block the rotor magnet a bit deeper or higher in the rotor and keep doing this until its perfectly perfect and then finally glue the magnet in with some super glue and maybe put a coat of epoxy over the rotor and magnets to lock it all in place or some other method you can think of.
Anyways doing it with magnets sticking out a little bit makes it so you can compensate for the rotor not being perfeclty flat in first place, and youwill be able to have a perfect arigap between all magnets.
Romero said he adjsuted airgap hundreds of times and it is really important thing...also in these flat-rotor Muller type of designs its a nice feature just to be be able to adjsut the airgap - its not possible in "radial" type of motors and generators.
Usually 1.5mm airgap is good one but that isnt set in stone.
Also when I mount rotor into chassis of the upper and lower coil-plates, I have block that holds upper magnet, and farily large hole that axle goes through cut out into the upper coil plate.
dont mount the block holdien bearing in at first, and in fact hold it in with a couple bolts through some larger-than normal holes through the bearing-holder block, so you can move the bearing holding the axle of the rotor in forward and backward and sideways a 1/2mm this way or that way then tighten the bolts up fairly snug holding the bearing-block in and spin the rotor by hand and check to makde sure the airgap on the right and the airgap on the left is exactly the same between the coil/cores and rotor magnets - then when you get it perfect, then lock that bearing-block in place with some screws or bolts. This saves lots of time and does a good job of making that rotor spin absoultuely flat.
If you are using threaded rod as your axles, they will make noise and clatter with the bearing mounted around them. Easy trick  is to wrap some teflon plumbing tape around the threads where the axle goes through, and push bearing in, this compressing the teflon tape into the threads.... then pull out bearing and wrap some more, and compress again with the bearing. Do this about 5 times or so unitl that bearing is  really tight and no more clatter and you will have tight bearing but obviously we-machined rotor-axle is better way to do it.
Also dont have bearigns "tight" against the beaing-holder/blocks...leave a bit of clearance - say 1/2mm
if beaings press too hard, you will really have a high amps draw you sill see what I mean - and no reason to tighten anything against bearing on outside of the bearing -  the insides of bearings is all you need - so leave the axle "free" on outside.
the best lubircant in the world is "protecta" its teflon based lube and if you have ceramic bearings (the best bearings in the world except for magnetic ones) this is the only typt of lubricant they reccomend....Clanzer reported the ceramics fizzing out above 10K rpms but maybe with some of this lube they would of done alright jsut google protecta to see their site and they will give you free sampel if you are nice to them.