Muller Dynamo

[e2matrix]

E2, this is not the coils used in the 'build' but a couple of test coils, the ferrite one from way back, the somaloy one fresh made.

Like everybody i thought the magnet on the end of the core was the be all to end all. But I suspect that the magnet is just compensating for the inefficiencies of ferrite.

The big ferrite coil is 28 X36 mm. It is using the "core should extend out the back" principle.

http://www.totallyamped.net/adams/index.html

Around page 4 or 5

I get 1 watt from this coil. With a stack equal to the rotor stack length the output goes up to 1.8 watts...nearly double, right?

But have a look at the new somaloy coil...it is machined from a piece of 1 1/2 PVC. The coil is only 12 mm wide, 240 turns, the part under the red tape. With the same gap, rotor, RPM, I get 4.68 watts. With one 1/8 thick magnet I get 5 watts.  The effect seems to go away with better cores.

Ron

That totallyamped link has some nice info.  Is the somaloy a high perm material?  I've been looking all over for some small rods in high permeability material like metglas or similar but can't seem to find any. 

   You are getting 5 watts out of one somaloy coil?  That sounds great.  Not sure what speed you are using or how much power to get that but if it's anywhere close to Romero's build it would seem you could loop it?

[e2matrix]

Quote from Konehead:

"In the Romero build and looper in my mind, its ALL ABOUT THE MAGNETS BEHIND THE CORES everything else in the design and build are good, but those magnets are what is the key to it all to get it to loop lenz-free..."

I am hoping someone will try and replicate the OU results I achieved by placing diametricly magnatized ring tubes, coupled end to end inside the cores of the output coils connected to rectifiers as in the Muller design. I succeded in looping a 32 awg wrapped output coil back to source through a capacitor and high speed Shottky diode, to charge the run battery with tremendous force.

Can you expand on this a bit?  Maybe with a picture.  I understand diametrically magnetized but I'm not too clear on what this looks like : "ring tubes, coupled end to end" unless you mean something like this? :

[chessnyt]

For those of you who are looking at the Nebraska surplus place for Litz wire, let me tell you that's the perfect Litz wire source! Just look at my photo. I wound a 200 winds on a 28AWG wire and it filled my whole bobbin. Then I tried the Litz wire and I did 500 turns and it took just 2/3 of the same bobbin space. More windings with less space! Way to go.

cheers
chrisC

My hat is off to you, Chris.  I have been noticing the very same people who ALWAYS preach to others (about keeping EVERYTHING and every part original in the beginning and ONLY substituting after you have achieved success with the original specs first) were the first ones to break their own rules and substitute parts right at the get go.  The people who substitute parts before getting it to self run can not legitimately claim the motor doesn't work when it doesn't work for you. 

I understand the skin effect so spare me that argument.  I understand voltage drop using certain bridge rectifiers (as opposed to more efficient diodes for the bridge) but if the motor REALLY worked for RomeroUK as a self runner, (and by the way, this is why you are ALL replicating this thing) then it will work for you using the original parts he used also. 

Chess

[synchro1]

@e2matrix,

                 That's the ticket! Those are the puppies. They link end to end, but of course this arrangement alters the fields, I think reducing the force field protruding from the ends. That's how they worked for me. They are linked side to side to form a bundle in the picture and also end to end. You don't want to increase the width, just the length, so the diameter of the linked magnets is the same as a single one and twice the length.

These diametric magnet core coils have to be adjusted for maximum output, which requires reading voltage. The beauty of the Muller dynamo is the platform, so adjustment for one should be good for all. Anticipate an enormous increase in output over Romero's ferrite core's, along with a drop in input coupled with acceleration of the rotor. Tape stuck back to back, should keep the sticky part off the magnet, and wraped around should be enough to keep the magnets in place top and bottem. I think the coupled magnets may bounce a tiny almost imperceptable amount, perhaps half a millimeter, inside the core. Enough to produce a mild vibration. We should X-Ray the field of these coupled tubes! I call the effect "Lenz Propulsion".

I predict a very large increase in output, on an order of maybe so much as 50x, so be prepared to deal with the incredible amount of extra output power! Follow this simple math to understand why the output's so large:

20,000 rpm's times 8 magnets divided by 60 seconds, times 1/2 millimeter twice equals over 2666 mm per sec or the distance the two diametric magnets would travel in 1 second through an output coil 7 feet in length! Imagine the power those 2 coupled magnets would generate traveling 7 feet per second up and down inside the core of an output coil that length! Multiply that times 14, add the sum to the rotor flux and it should  surpass nuclear fission in COP. Perhaps non-magnetic metal or plastic clips would work better then tape over the long run to provide spring action. It might also help to reverse half the rotor magnets for a N S N S arrangement to balance and sustaion magnet strength.

[e2matrix]

Opinions please.  The Red Pill or the Blue Pill? 
Two DC-DC converters that seem a good value since I know I'm going to loop this eventually
And even if it didn't loop right away who couldn't use a regulated fully adjustable 3 Amp DC supply
for under $6 shipped (or around $10 for the blue one)?

Pictured below - the Red PCB board
Input range 5-30v
Stable & High efficient up to 93%
Powerful max.3A / Adjustable output 3-27v
USD $3.99
Flat Rate of Worldwide Delivery for USD $2
Specifications:
Dimension:                    31(L)x17(W)x13mm(H)
Input voltage:                  DC 5-30V
Output Voltage:               DC 3-27V (adjustable, O/P Voltage < I/P Voltage by 1.5v, the default is 5V when delivery)
Output current:               Rated current 2.5A, max up to 3A(heat sink is required)
Minimum Voltage difference: 2V
Conversion efficiency:           Up to 93% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
Potentiometer adjustment direction: Clockwise (increase), counterclockwise (decrease)
Operating temperature: Industrial grade (-40 â,,ƒ to 85 â,,ƒ)
Static power consumption is only about 6mA.
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Load regulation: ± 1%
Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%

-----------------------------
Pictured below - the Blue PCB board
DC-DC Converter Module   $7.50 + $2.95 shipping
Description: Compact DC-DC Step-Down* Converter Module. The output voltage is adjustable via the blue trimmer. Ideal for any electronics project.
Features:
Input Voltage: 3-30VDC
Output voltage: 1.3-18VDC
Max output current: 3A
Built in LM2596S-adj
Dimensions: 45mm x 38mm
Package includes:
1 x DC-DC converter module
2 x 2-pin connection cables

fleaBay items if you want to try one.