Muller Dynamo

[e2matrix]

Another good source of batteries is your local scrap metal salvage yard.  They usually will sell used batteries for so much per pound.  A battery load meter is a better  way to check a battery.  A volt meter will only tell you it has voltage not if it will power a load.  If you don't have a battery load tester then take along a headlamp with some wires attached so you can put a load on any batteries you are interested in.  If it lights the headlamp for a few minutes then you know it is good.  If it only lights it a few seconds then the battery may still be good but need charging or maybe it is badly sulfated (another subject) so you might not want to take a chance with it unless it is real cheap.  An advantage of the pull-it places is that some of them will let you bring a bad battery back and exchange it for another.  Most salvage places will not let you do that.

I also agree that running any alternative energy project off a battery is the best way to do it.  You eliminate a lot of potential problems and measurement errors that way.

I agree a voltmeter won't tell all but for me it works probably 95% of the time.  It depends on the situation you are in though and this is why I don't usually load test them.  If a place sees you load test it or anything other than a quick meter test they may be less likely to let you have it free or cheap.  If you can see a little over 12.0 volts on a battery at least you know none of the cells are dead.  Of course if you can negotiate a price ahead of time then load test away...

[e2matrix]

Have a look at what Matt Jones just posted on this page over at EF

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7982-muller-generator-replication-romerouk-34.html

Yeah I wish Matt was on this project.  He's definitely one of the best builders around and is always coming up with good stuff.  I hope he eventually jumps in on this motor but I think he's occupied now with some other things.  I do think his suggestion is worth looking into for those with builds. 

[konehead]

Hi Fausto

what do you meant by this quote?

"I am shorting the cap at around 20 times each with a duration of 100 microseconds."

(not sure what you mean by 20 times each)

also I see that you are doing the shorting at the AC side of FWBR (so across coil, and not DC side of FWBR)

this is the way to do it if you want to do it in "swtiched short" method of it only happeing at peaks, and for short duration....

BUT if you have DC capacitor it goes into from FWBR, with any resistance across it, or is dead-shorted out, then this kills everythign and there is no gain at all.

Pretty much the capacitor fills from "pure voltage' when coil-shoritng swtiching OPENS (my theory)

on sidenotes, its maximum current and minimum voltage when swtihc is closed,
plus the shorting it collapwses coil within itself too (for spring-board affect when swticngi opens)
also bunch of oscillaitons are created that can be seen on scope...

For output to a load, the capacitor MUST be disconnected from "source" (coils being shorted is the source) when the capacitor does hit a resistive load, so you would need some extra swtiches and hall effects and some "normally-ON swtiches OFF" type of thing going on too in counjunciotn with the "normally OFF switches ON"  swtihcing such as what is  already being done in the romero machines, such as in the drive circuits.

the mosfets that do coil shorting at peaks must be very very low resistance which means a high amperage rated type and you can put say 5 in paraelll too, like Ismael does too, if you want.
try some solid state relays, or SCRS...they wont work AT ALL - their resistance is too high for coil-shorting to work...but look how good those little reed switches work in all the youtube videos - their resistance is ultra low......(but reeds will blow easy)

Its best to use "bidirectional" mosfets, where two mosfets hookup at the source leads and the gates, and the coil-shorting switching occurs between the two "leftover" drain leads.

[konehead]

hey anyone:

I rmember reading about  5 days ago where someone ( ITh ink Mo?) was fooling around with how he hooked up bridge recitifers to is remoero machine's coils an dhe could get a "pure" sinewave by connecting I think two FWBRS, with AC leads topgheter and some point between two coils (not sure)
this is something I would really like to try out but cant finde the original post explainign it - I looked thorugh all of them back to pg 308 jsut now....
does anyone know where to look for the descripition how to get pure sinewave via FWBR hookup?

[chalamadad]

hey anyone:

I rmember reading about  5 days ago where someone ( ITh ink Mo?) was fooling around with how he hooked up bridge recitifers to is remoero machine's coils an dhe could get a "pure" sinewave by connecting I think two FWBRS, with AC leads topgheter and some point between two coils (not sure)
this is something I would really like to try out but cant finde the original post explainign it - I looked thorugh all of them back to pg 308 jsut now....
does anyone know where to look for the descripition how to get pure sinewave via FWBR hookup?

Hey kone, that was me. I shorted from one AC leg to inbetween the two series coils. Let me know what you are trying to do with that. Thanks.