Muller Dynamo

[konehead]

Hi Mariu
I assume the coil then is series-adding bifilar, and series "Cancelling" too? Then when you add magnet, it then makes voltage?
the quesiton is, is the magnet ITSELF causing the speed up, reacting to the rotor magnets?
And is the cancelling of lenz affect in the coil under load becasue of the magnet making rotor go up in speed.
But, lenz is sort of still there but is being "cancelled-out" by the speed up instead of slow-down as is usual - all because of those magnets....
try to get that magnet to speed up rotor all on its own, no coil in front of it, no core in front of it...I can do this all the time lately big time speed up too...
Also dont forget the flat steel washer back there - I think that has alot do do with it not sure why though.

[gyulasun]

Hi Doug,

What I see from the latest video from Marius the rpm of the rotor does not change when he places the magnet stack behind the coil.  And this seems to be a good direction, especially if he connected the bifilar coil in series cancelling direction where the output voltage is less than half a volt unloaded and without the backing magnets and nearly 1.9V loaded by the leds with the backing magnets and 3V unloaded and with the backing magnets in place:  during all this the rpm stays.
I think what may happen here is that the Bloch wall is "marching" in the core in a dircetion lengthwise when the backing magnets are in place and any one rotor magnet passes the core, this is the flux change causing unbalance in the bifilar induction. 
Perhaps using some further similar cores with the same number of bifilar coils with backing and connecting them both first parallel (as Romero did via the diode bridges) and in series too to see if rpm is affected or not. What do you think (if you consider the bifilar in series cancel mode)?
Yes, the washers effect is also important.

Thanks,  Gyula

[Scorch]

Interesting proposal. Not sure if this may be 'better'.

May I analyze this?

As it is now; the current stator plates are just plain, acrylic disks, that each have 4 mounting holes and 1 bearing hole therefore only takes a few minutes to fabricate then use acrylic weld cement to attach the coils.
And, if current coils are unsatisfactory, have to set that aside and build a new pair of stator plates complete with coils.

Am I to understand the new proposal is as such?
Build the same plates, but also use additional materials to fabricate 18 acrylic mounts, drill 72 additional holes, tap 36 holes to accept nylon, machine thread, screws, cement coils to said mounts, install mounts with screws, while, at the same time, making sure everything is still perfectly aligned and no gaps under mounts, or movement around screws,.
And, if coils are unsatisfactory, have to either re-wind or install new coils onto 18 new acrylic mounts, complete with 36 new holes and reinstall 36 screws.

This is cheaper and easier?!?

Interesting plan, for additional fabrication and versatility, and I will certainly consider this proposal in the future.
But, for right now, my plan is to make my current creation actually work and won't need to replace the stator, EVER.

NEVER EVER!
It WILL work!!!

Disclaimer:
The opinions, and positions, of the persona 'Scorch' are not, necessarily, the opinions, or positions, of this Creator.

}:>

PS:
Who says coils have to have round ends?
If I am going to fabricate acrylic mounting plates; why not just make oval, or rectangular, coil ends with mounting holes and completely eliminate glue?

Now THIS may actually be easier!
Instead of cutting circles; can simply cut strips and cut the strips, to the desired length, and drill the same hole, for the ferrite rod, plus mounting holes.
This would also provide an easy way to mount coil bobbins (with no center hole) onto a winding jig.

Hey Scorch

may be better to glue the coils to small thin plexy plates that can be then attached to the larger mounting plates. Its cheaper and easier if you have to make changes. Coil modules. ;]  Plastic/nylon screws/bolts from home depot or lowes to attach the modules.

Mags

[Scorch]

The distance of each coil?
Is this in reference to the distance BETWEEN coils?

I think ZFF had mentioned the capability to adjust individual coils in relation to the rotor.
Not sure if this would be a great advantage.

If coils are consistently wound there should be no need to adjust one closer, or further away, from the rotor.
And the bias magnet position, or size, is just as good for adjustments of individual coils.

One of the biggest issues I see is the consistency of the magnets in the rotor.
I think that if their magnetic strength, or flux pattern, are not all within 5-10% of each other this may have a substantial effect on performance.

}:>

Hi Scorch,
    I agree with mags, also we need to have an adjustable coil, so we can easily adjust the distance of each coil.

[gyulasun]

Hi Marius,

I assume the scope shows the induced voltage waveforms and when you connect the 24 leds and place the backing magnets behind the core, the waveform peaks seems to be cut only a little which means about  1.1 Volt from the positive and the negative peaks each (3-1.9=1.1 if I consider the DVM values, on the scope this seems less difference if we consider the full peak to peak value). 
So what I mean with this is that the led diodes as a load do not behave as real loads like a resistor would,  below the leds forward voltage there is no load current and over the forward voltage there is load current.  Understand this?   
Let's say one full waveform is 2 millisec long in time and the loading current can only flow for much less than 2ms, just during the positive and the negative voltage peaks whose time length is say only 2 x 200 microsecond=400us=0.4ms  this is 20% of the 2ms waveform one full period in this example and there is no any load for the rest of the waveform period of 80%.  This means Lenz if is present at all, it can only be present for 20% not for 100%.
So you may want to repeat the test with a resistor load which is surely present as a load for 100% of the waveform time period and then see the rpm change if there is any Lenz drag at all in this present setup.
(In this example I assume 12 led diodes load the positive half of the  induced voltage and 12 led diodes load the negative one, is this correct?)

Thanks,  Gyula

PS Please confirm if you connected the bifilar coils in series cancel direction?  (i.e.  one end of a coil is connected to also the end of the other coil and the output is taken from the two start wires?  or vice versa)

Hi all

I have seen in mr. R videos a type of bifilar coil that cancels eachother the output. But when adding a magnet behind the coil there is output. i have found a sweat spot that doesn't affect the rpm when the leds are lit. The coils in the video are using this principle but i'll make one for further experiments.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocrpEpL-D9M&feature=youtu.be