Muller Dynamo

[chrisC]

Hi Stefan,
I only had a 440000 uf cap.
So I charged it to 15v and with 10ohm on the dc to dc (set to 12v)
The led stayed on for 3 seconds. (resistor was smoking)

Without the resistor it takes about 26 seconds for the led to die down.

This is what the dc to dc output wire looks like btw.

Thanks Nali2001. It does look like the time constant for the capacitor discharge is about right; for a larger 47K and a larger input resistance! So I think the DC-DC converter is just doing the job correctly and 40 something seconds is real. Comments?

cheers
chrisC

[Nali2001]

Yes seems about right.
Plus I wonder how real "12 Volts 0.9 amps" really is. I mean these dvm's might be off due to the very short duty cycle and multi Khz system frequency.

[tinu]

Thanks Nali2001. It does look like the time constant for the capacitor discharge is about right; for a larger 47K and a larger input resistance! So I think the DC-DC converter is just doing the job correctly and 40 something seconds is real. Comments?

cheers
chrisC

I understand Nali2001 used a 440K cap which is almost 10 times larger (not smaller!) than 47K and resistance at 10Ohms compared to 12Ohms is pretty close (within 25% error margin) .
Was the cap 440000uF or it was a typo?

@ Nali2001,
@ Hoppy,

Many, many thanks!

One more question if you are kind to answer: Is the LED on the output or is it on the input-side of the DC2DC converter’s circuit?
Only if the led is on the output side, could you check if it goes on when a small voltage (3V or so shall do it) is applied to the OUTPUT side? (This issue was raised by nul-points).

I really appreciate your prompt help!
Tinu

[chrisC]

I understand Nali2001 used a 440K cap which is almost 10 times larger (not smaller!) than 47K and resistance at 10Ohms compared to 12Ohms is pretty close (within 25% error margin) .
Was the cap 440000uF or it was a typo?

@ Nali2001,
@ Hoppy,

Many, many thanks!

One more question if you are kind to answer: Is the LED on the output or is it on the input-side of the DC2DC converter’s circuit?
Only if the led is on the output side, could you check if it goes on when a small voltage (3V or so shall do it) is applied to the OUTPUT side? (This issue was raised by nul-points).

I really appreciate your prompt help!
Tinu

Oh, I read 44000 uF! Maybe Nali will clear it up for us. Sorry....

chrisC

[nul-points]

...anybody get a feeling of Deja Vu about all this? 


from this thread, May 10...

It was fake all along but I did not want to spoil your excitement. Few would have heard me anyway.

Look again at the first “OU video” (lol!) and by the end of it ask yourself why is the power led (DC-DC converter) still on after he turns the switch off. Huh?!
Moreover, why is the same led flashing in sync with the RPM of the rotor when it should be disconnected from stator coils?!!!
Or to put it simpler…What does he switches off then if not the DC converter?!!!
Hint: the other power source? 15V, 1-2A, 2 thin wires… Go figure!

I know, I’m MIB, oil-man, skeptic and a few dozen more…

Before leaving, greetings to the old friends still remembering me. 
See you on the next one, folks!

you can see the LED turn off when the rotor has significantly slowed down and the output of the pickup coils falls under the minimal input current for the DC converter to work.

Look again:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3YqCp84IOE


Because the 47.000 uF cap is still in parallel with the DC2DC converter !
Man, look again at the video in detail ! I just did it again.


It does not flash at all...
I just watched it again in HD directly from the FLV file on my PC.

The 47.000 uF cap is charged up at 15.07 Volts from all the coil voltage spikes
and when he switches off, only the cap powers still the DC2DC converter for
a while and then the cap discharges and also the LED goes dim and the rotor stops.
That is all what could be seen !

Very normal for such a circuit with 47.000 uF cap charged to 15.07 Volts at the input
of a DC2DC converter and just discharging.


Probably you did not watch the movie correctly.
I can now see all cables exactly in the HD version and all
is well and no extra cables are seen.

I can recognize every cable which is there.
There are so many cables, cause he needs to bring up the
connections for the lower coils up to the top.
But all is exactly so, as the circuit diagrams have shown.

I think it is really genuine and no fake.
[...]
Regards, Stefan.

etc.,

etc.,

etc.,

shall we ask all naysayers to come back every 7 days and ask the same old, same old?

and then we can jump through the hoops all over again

after all, we have plenty of time to waste, don't we?