Muller Dynamo

[kishbud]

Thanks.. Yes I have a drill press.  I'm going to use Plas-Drill bits (made for drilling plastic) for the smaller holes..
http://www.amazon.com/Craftics-Plas-Drill-Bit-7-16/dp/B0011Z0I8W
and this Unibit for the larger ones..
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin%C2%AE-Unibit%C2%AE-Step-Drill-20-1326/dp/B000WHBD7K/ref=sr_1_76?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1307408896&sr=1-76

4Tesla, everything Konehead said is right on for drilling plastics.

I build a lot with PC, PMMA, UHMW, Etc... and what I really have great success with is a nice set of sharp Forstner Bits.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17283&filter=forstner%20bits

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-42930-Forstner-Bit/dp/B00004YO9T

What I really like about the Forstner Bit is you can counter sink a magnet to any depth and have that nice flat machined surface at the bottom of the hole.

The hole alignment is much more accurate with the pointed center and you can just as well drill all the way through your material.

Always use a drill press with these bits, clamp down your material and test cut with scrap material to achieve a clean hole with the proper bit RPM. If your bits are sharp you can cut real slow with depth control and no melting.

Good building!

Mike

[konehead]

I built this "Muller goat motor" (intentional mispelling ha) maybe 8 years ago and did putt around a bit in a small boat with it...not that powerful at 24V input BUT this motor had the most dramatic speed-up under loading I could ever get -
note that all  7 coil positions are in SERIES and just one FWBR is needed,

I did the "switched AC leg of FWBR" delayed timing (about 5 degrees retarded) trick with it.
It would double in speed, and draw went way down when the DC side of the FWBR over all the coils would slam directly into a 12V battery. (no caps!)
The motor would run on 24V and about 2 amps uloaded druing the "speed-up" tests (out of water), and around 4 amps in the water....

AC side of FWBR goes over all the coils....and there is a single switch (I used roller-commutators at that time)  on just one of the AC legs of the FWBR....
8 magnets in rotor, N-S
cores were steel "elevator bolts" (very flat and wide heads)  and also ferrite tubes the bolts ran thorugh...coils were fairly thick 18GA wire, and about 100feet in length if the bifilar coils were in series...they were bifilar (as seen in the illustration) but during the speed-up tests, I didnt have the circuit shown in drawing where the bifilar coils are split into two halves and just ran "one half" of the bifilars and it was repulsive-only...
the motor would fire 4 times a revolution, and also hit the load-battery 4 times a revolution too, in the approx "5 degrees retarded" timing as compared to the motor-pulse timing...
anyways this worked very great and mabye some of you would like to try hooking all your coils in series in your Romeroukmullers for the fun of it and doing some coil-shorttng of all of them at once and see what happens, or some "delay swtiched AC leg of FWBR" like just described tests ....here are some pics of it:

[scratchrobot]

This is from Romero on coil shorting:
"One thing to mention, I am not shorting the coil directly, I am doing it with a capacitor, in fact the shorting is adding a capacitor in parallel with the coil.The capacitor value in my case is 0.33uf."
  Can someone please explain this.  Seems relevant.

Thanks I remember reading somewhere he wrote that he found a way of shorting with just one extra component and didn't need the reed switch anymore. I will try some caps and see what happens.
If it doesn't work I will try this

[scratchrobot]

Im also wondering that if we want to get the Kromrey effect wouldn't it be more logical to put the magnets on the rotor in a NSNS configuration?

[toranarod]

Todays research notes based on the circuit below.

Not the small capacitor 1.5 uF makes an increase in out put current by 60% It creates a phase shift. its value is specifically suited to my coil H and RPM

The motor RPM 1450