Muller Dynamo

[konehead]

HI Mariu
I figure its X4 or X5 in rpm gain - and NO EXTRA DRAW AT ALL
this with all the generator coils and their cores in place on top and bottom plates - probably much better gain in rpm if I had only the motor/drive coils in place and no generator coils which is something I want to try.
Like those pictures show and I explained when generator coilks are in place, the mangets behind the generator coil's cores too is very important or you wont get the really dramatic speed up...it doestn seem to me logically that magnets behind the generator coils would help at all, but they really do make a huge difference and are
"required" - I am at early stage of testing the generator coils without any loading to them too....I remember Romero saying that you should have a load on the generator coils,  then add the magnets behind them and play around with "stack size" and orientation and positions of the backing magnets WHILE the generator coils are loaded...so I figure all this will have to be done over again and again soon....everyday I try it out, and start from scratch, there is new and better  way to put the magnets behind the cores it seems...what is consistent is the long stack of magnets behind the motor drive coils that is for sure...
The draw actually goes DOWN at the high speeds,  since at low rpms like 200 or 300rpm, the pulse widht is sort of too long, so your amp draw is more down there, but when you get the huge speed-up occuring draw goes down a bit - depends on how much of "too much" pulse width you have in the first place, at the low rpms, in how much improvement you get with the speed up......
right now, with advanced timing I have 90 ma draw at around 1300rpm or 55ma draw at around 1100rpm with the retarded timing (I think the retarded timing is better effeciency wise  pretty sure) and at the low rpms with NO magnets, the draw is THE SAME as the draw when it is going 1300 or 1100rpm -  a bit more draw actually at low rpms as explained becasue of pulse width - so its a "pure-gain" situation with those backing magnets - plus very important you need the backing magnet sbehind the generator coils, as well as the motor/drive coils.....
I am sure you would get lots of speed up too, if you had some grade 42 "ring" magnets to slip around the long ferrite core in your test-machine...
then when you add generator coils and their cores, you will need magnets behind each of those too...if unloaded, or loaded generator coils......and this will be a very experimental, hands-on (time consuming) way to determine their positions and strengths, and polarities....

[konehead]

Hi Crazycut
From what I read the backing magnets in Romeros machine were "haphazard" in that it also didnt make sense which way they were oriented, and how they were placed, and their strenghts (adjsutsed by distance from core or number of magnets in stack) He jsut had to experiment alot and come up with the best way to put them.  I am sure he didnt have N-S magnets all logically in a string on the backing magnets that is for sure.....
Yes top speed is not the best thing as far as best effeicency and finding some sort of resonance or harmonic happening goes too...but HP (and so also the watts and power)  from a motor's shaft is function of troque and speed combined so always more speed is better, but you might go too fast and need to backup when you shoot past some sweet spot...

[crazycut06]

Hi Crazycut!
Thanks for sharing your ideas.
May I ask you what means "cogging" here. i've checked in translation dictionaries on web and they say it's about "teeth-wheel", there is no here, so could you help me to understand in which mean you were using it please?
Cheer.

Hi Khwartz,


Cogging torque
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Cogging torque of electrical motors is the torque due to the interaction between the permanent magnets of the rotor and the stator slots of a Permanent Magnet (PM) machine. It is also known as detent or 'no-current' torque. This torque is position dependent and its periodicity per revolution depends on the number of magnetic poles and the number of teeth on the stator. Cogging torque is an undesirable component for the operation of such a motor. It is especially prominent at lower speeds, with the symptom of jerkiness. Cogging torque results in torque as well as speed ripple; however, at high speed the motor moment of inertia filters out the effect of cogging torque.


Hope this helps... Good day 

[crazycut06]

Hi Crazycut
From what I read the backing magnets in Romeros machine were "haphazard" in that it also didnt make sense which way they were oriented, and how they were placed, and their strenghts (adjsutsed by distance from core or number of magnets in stack) He jsut had to experiment alot and come up with the best way to put them.  I am sure he didnt have N-S magnets all logically in a string on the backing magnets that is for sure.....
Yes top speed is not the best thing as far as best effeicency and finding some sort of resonance or harmonic happening goes too...but HP (and so also the watts and power)  from a motor's shaft is function of troque and speed combined so always more speed is better, but you might go too fast and need to backup when you shoot past some sweet spot...

Hi Konehead,
Hi All,
    Thanks for the reply, What would you think about cores and coils? Im trying to understand the relationship of coils to cores,
My first rig has a 1"x 1/2" hockey puck neos, my coils are double the size of the neos, 2", the core is solid soft iron same size of neos, i think i have too much cogging because of the cores, i try to set them far from rotor to reduce cogging, but the voltage in my coil drops, then when i try some backing magnets, it help ease the cogging but no voltage gain, nor voltage drop
    Then i made a second rig same magnets but my coils are romero's specs, coil is same size of the magnets (not litz wire), core is ferrite from computer pow. supply, (testing the voltage is done with one coil only) rotor is hand spin only, i got 1.5v ac, when i put some backing magnets (repelling) the voltage somehow rises a bit adding .2-.4 volts, then when i reverse the backing magnet (attracting) somehow reduces the voltage .2-.4 volts. hmmmm....what do you think is happening?
    Do you think we should concentrate on the coils and cores? in respect with the magnet size? here's the link to my video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=g-VD7C8cviY


Regards Crazycut

[konehead]

hi Crazycut
forget about solid iron cores against neodimium magnets its jsut too slow to change polarity and theywill get hot and have extreme latching... for cores, sommething low-hysterisis, like metglas, or special amorphous blacksand that lets the magnets glide by instead of latching up like iron does is good for cores- ferrite is OK tppp thats whay romero used - at least it is very fast to swtihc polarity type of stuff...you can always go with aircores too, in your coils and replace the core with another coil inside of it (a "pikcup coil" I call them) then also more secondary/p[ikcup wrap winds around the primary too. and behind it too if you want....with aircores you should short the coils at their sinewave peaks into caps.
As far as I know, the regauging/backing magnets behind the core isnt going to work with aircores since you need a core in there for the bakcing magnets to do something to. However someone said if you have a thick flat ferrous steel washer behind the cores, "maybe" aircores would work but I dont know.
Bill Muller told me if using cores, make the core the same width as the magnet is...this makes sense to me....
For the length of a coil, whatever the field-strength of the rotor \streches out to, and it becomes so weak it seems senseless to make core any longer than that, make the coil that long... same wiht cores I would guess...anyways this is all my opinions on coil/ core subject not absolute fact or anything...

the core should be the same