Power ratio over one

[hartiberlin]

Hi David,
how long can you run this whole circuit from your 1.2 Volts battery ?

You did say you did wind the output aircore coils with double wire,
which was in parallel ?
Can you please post a schematic, so we can see,
how you wired up your coils and your LEDs ?

So do you use the same method as in the Tesla flat coil ?

I enclose a great drawing from Rex Hebert here,
which shows the fanstastic more energy storage of these coils:

[one]

HG's device is using 4 micro contacts with a swinging plate that activates two micro contacts per side. I am wondering,  is there a way to replace the micro contacts with optical senors in order to eliminate the banging action and noise. Or could the banging mechanism that stops the magnet so abruptly before changing direction, then aid in the overall process towards OU.

I have been   trying to come up  with   ways  to test the basic  concepts  of  this idea with  parts I already have .

If   holes were drilled  ( then tapped )   into the  base   just inside the  edges of   the  middle  set of magnets  .

The  a couple  small magnets  could be attached to a threaded plug  or setscrew .

The  magnet  should  have the  same  pole up as the  bottom  magnet has down so  they will repel .

If I was  to  try  to modify the  setup in the videos I think I would  start with  1/4  by 1/4   rare  earth magnet .

The  idea  would be  to have the  magnets as  small as possable  without   having  the faces  of the magnets  hitting  each other .

I am guessing that   switching to magnets would  speed up  the system a little because  it would add a litlle  Springyness to  the reciprocation   

Rough  adjustment    should be pretty  simple ....... observe the current  movement limits       hold the axle  at  its limit on  that side  and  raise  the magnet  untill   you can feel  it start to push on the  rotor magnet .

I am pretty sure that using  magnets that are to big  would  tend to dampen  the  movement  of the  rotor  (  the  magnetic fields  would  start interacting to soon ........ and  the rotor would slow  down  " gradually "  rather than   hitting   the field of a smaller  magnet and  bouncing  back   

I  am about  99 % sure that this  would   work   


Just had an after thought . 

It might be possable  to  put  small  coils   under the  other  sets of magnets ...... ( adjusted  just  like the  magnets I  just described ) 

It seems to me that they  would  create  a magnetic field as long as the  magnets  on the rotor are approching

Once the   rotor   stops .......the field    collapsing   will make a spike that  should   give the rotor a little boost .
Each coil could probably power a couple more leds

Adding a small cap  might  delay  the  spike  for a fraction of a second so the rotor  has more time to change  direction 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I am not sure about the  switches .

If they are momentary contact  they could   probably  be replaced  with  a few pieces of wire and  some small magnets.

a  short  pieces of  music  wire  ...... or  wire for making springs   would  be attracted to a small magnet 

The   music  wire would be one contact  the  magnet  face the other .       

The   other end of  the  music  wire  would be attached to a  much heavier  wire ...... like  14 gage  copper .   
The  heavy  wire would  allow you  to  bend   it to achieve  the right  timing   ..........the length  of the  music wire would tend to control the dwell time .


gary     

[hartiberlin]

Hi David,
as your LEDs are not on with the same current all the time,
surely for the power output measurements you haveto integrate
the voltage x current over time to see how much power exactly is
being put out.

Could you please post a few more videos of the driver coil
unit, so one could exactly see, how it is rocking back and forward and
where the magnets and coils are located there ?

From the 2 videos already posted I was not able to see it.

Could you please verify again what wire you used
to wire the output coils and about how many turns ?
What bifilar or double (parallel) wire was it ?

Many thanks.

[hartiberlin]

Hi David and All,
I analysed the 4 Windaq waveforms now a bit more and I must say,
that indeed it looks like it is overrunity.

David is just using all the time not more than 200 milliWatts of average power input
into his magnet rocker from his 1.2 Volts battery.
The input current is mostly lower than 400 mA
and his battery voltage is not higher than 0.5 Volts at this load,
mostly lower...

His output load has around 15 Volts average voltage all the time added up over a cycle optically seen
and around 20 mA average current , which will give about 300 milliWatts output at
one coil output.
As he has 3 or 5 coils as I understand it, the output exceeds much more the input.

As the output current Windaq scope trace is very noisy due to the low
voltage at the 0.05 Ohm shunt, David should use a much higher Ohm shunt
to get into a better measurement voltage range to get out of the error
level of the measurement equipment.

But as it seems this is quite an achievement so far...

Regards, Stefan.

[hartiberlin]

Hi David,
I have an idea, how to make the measurements more easy and
more obvious.

Please use after each coil a graetz rectifier bridge
and a 2000 uF / 100 Volts capacitor and then drive 10 to 20
LEDs in series with the output of this capacitor.
Then you will have almost DC voltage at this cap
so you can measure the output much better and have a constant
light output and not blinking.
Then use at least a 1 Ohm shunt in series with the LEDs, better
a 10 Ohm shunt. ( this will also save better your LEDs
from burning out...)
Use the Windaq hardware to measure again voltage at the
cap and voltage at the shunt.

Please also try to put
a 2000 to  10.000 uF cap parallel to the battery, so the voltage over there
remains more stable.
Many thanks in advance.

Regards, Stefan.