Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Power ratio over one

Started by handyguy1, January 03, 2008, 09:33:54 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

LarryC

Quote from: wattsup on January 30, 2008, 09:06:05 PM
@AHHHHHHH

Here is a diagram of how I see it work.  Please correct me if needed.

Here is a spec on the micro contact.
Rated 6A and 250 VAC (1500 WATTEROUNIES)
Electrical life at rated load - Minimum 6,000 iterations.
These contacts will last and last and last.
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/miniature/e51.htm

The four micro contacts each have a LONG THIN METAL LEVER (Mechanical). No magnet needed.

So one side of the battery goes to two micro contacts, the other side of the battery goes to the other two micro contacts. Just flip the wires so each side is the reverse. All contacts are NO. That is to say when the teeter is up, the two micro contacts are NO hence open.

The micro contacts levers on the down side of the teeter are pushed downwards, so if they are also wired NO, then these two are closed in one polarity. When this side rises, it will open, the other side will close in the other polarity.

@HG, when you get a device name, let us know and I'll change it on the diagram.


Thanks, that's all I can see too Wattsup.

gyulasun

Quote from: handyguy1 on January 30, 2008, 09:37:21 PM
Hay Stefan:
The driver coil (#15) is the electromagnet. All it is, is a single strand of 15 gauge wire, wrapped in a coil. If you have a coil of wire hanging around, put a permanent magnet inside it, touch a battery to the two coil ends, and the magnet will move. Wattsup schematic is exactly right. There are no magnets or electromagnet in the switch assembly! In the video you reference, I moved the teeterboard with my fingers to show the operation of the teeterboard in relation to the movement of the engaging lever (#4).
Wattsup's schematic shows all there is. Thanks Wattsup. It looks like you might be the first to replicate this device. If that?s so, I?ll let you give the device a name!
David

A transformer does not work well for the input. To much humming, and the secondary unit doesn't work right.

Hi David,

I do not think Stefan meant the transformer for the input in the sense you mentioned: I think he suggests you connect the primary side of a normal 120V/12V mains transformer to the output of your green coil and the secondary side of this transformer would feed a full wave rectifier + puffer capacitor, so the DC power gained this way would replace your 1.2V battery, you simply would remove the battery after hooking up the circuit...   To avoid a runaway situation, some ten Ohms of series resistor  (in 20-200 Ohm range) is advisable to insert to reduce deliberately the power coming from the puffer capacitor. If your device stops after hooking up and removing the battery, you can reduce the series resistor gradually or even short-circuit it and see whether your device continue running in this looped back connection. A bulb rated of a few watts would be better instead of the resistor though.

Because your output peak voltage is in the range of 40-60V, the output voltage at the secondary of the transformer will be around 4-6V peak, so after the diode bridge rectification the puffer capacitor will have an unloaded 6-9V DC output: of course when your driver coil is connected to this through the switches, the DC voltage will be significantly reduced in the capacitor and an average stored voltage will remain in it, once it has a chance to recharge from the transformer.

Such transformers are found in normal plugin power supplies, I think you call them wall transformers, you may find them at Walmart etc in the 12W-20W power range, usually these are AC/DC adapters, (NOT the switching types!),  maybe with only one diode + a puffer electrolytic capacitor on their secondary side. There may be variable output types where the secondary coil has several series windings and with a slide switch you can choose 3V,  6V,  9V and 12V DC output, such would be better for the looping... but in the lack of such adapter, with one output voltage value only,  the series resistor or rather a bulb mentioned above surely helps.

Here are links on the kind of adapters I think of: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCTX-980/790/9_VDC_800_MA_WALL_TRANSFORMER_.html   or http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCTX-4175/790/7.5_VDC_TO_9_VDC_WALL_TRANSFORMER_.html
You may choose a mains transformer only like this:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/TX-121/790/12.6_V.C.T._"#64;_1_AMP_POWER_TRANSFORMER_.html
Of course you may choose not to do such looping with your device... If you do, I can make a schematics on it for you to clear everything up.

Thanks,  Gyula

handyguy1

Hay Gyula:

Sure, I will try this suggestion. My point with Mr. Krieg is his unreasonable expectations, and name calling bully attitude!   If your schematics are drawn out like Wattsup?s, I shouldn?t have to many questions.  I haven?t done any tinkering in a long time, and am looking forward to having ?fun?!

Thanks for your assistance.

David

hartiberlin

Quote from: gyulasun on January 31, 2008, 06:55:42 AM

Hi David,

I do not think Stefan meant the transformer for the input in the sense you mentioned: I think he suggests you connect the primary side of a normal 120V/12V mains transformer to the output of your green coil and the secondary side of this transformer would feed a full wave rectifier + puffer capacitor, so the DC power gained this way would replace your 1.2V battery, you simply would remove the battery after hooking up the circuit...   To avoid a runaway situation, some ten Ohms of series resistor  (in 20-200 Ohm range) is advisable to insert to reduce deliberately the power coming from the puffer capacitor. If your device stops after hooking up and removing the battery, you can reduce the series resistor gradually or even short-circuit it and see whether your device continue running in this looped back connection. A bulb rated of a few watts would be better instead of the resistor though.

Because your output peak voltage is in the range of 40-60V, the output voltage at the secondary of the transformer will be around 4-6V peak, so after the diode bridge rectification the puffer capacitor will have an unloaded 6-9V DC output: of course when your driver coil is connected to this through the switches, the DC voltage will be significantly reduced in the capacitor and an average stored voltage will remain in it, once it has a chance to recharge from the transformer.

Such transformers are found in normal plugin power supplies, I think you call them wall transformers, you may find them at Walmart etc in the 12W-20W power range, usually these are AC/DC adapters, (NOT the switching types!),  maybe with only one diode + a puffer electrolytic capacitor on their secondary side. There may be variable output types where the secondary coil has several series windings and with a slide switch you can choose 3V,  6V,  9V and 12V DC output, such would be better for the looping... but in the lack of such adapter, with one output voltage value only,  the series resistor or rather a bulb mentioned above surely helps.

Here are links on the kind of adapters I think of: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCTX-980/790/9_VDC_800_MA_WALL_TRANSFORMER_.html   or http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCTX-4175/790/7.5_VDC_TO_9_VDC_WALL_TRANSFORMER_.html
You may choose a mains transformer only like this:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/TX-121/790/12.6_V.C.T._"#64;_1_AMP_POWER_TRANSFORMER_.html
Of course you may choose not to do such looping with your device... If you do, I can make a schematics on it for you to clear everything up.

Thanks,  Gyula

Hi Gyula,
yes, I exactly meant it like this.
With this addon David should be able already to selfrun his unit.
Many thanks for pointing it out in detail.

Regards, Stefan.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

hartiberlin

Quote from: handyguy1 on January 30, 2008, 09:37:21 PM
Hay Stefan:
The driver coil (#15) is the electromagnet. All it is, is a single strand of 15 gauge wire, wrapped in a coil. If you have a coil of wire hanging around, put a permanent magnet inside it, touch a battery to the two coil ends, and the magnet will move. Wattsup schematic is exactly right.


Hi David,
I edited the wiring diagram from Wattsup and here it is enclosed.

Where do we exactly find the coil #15 and the drivemagnet in your pictures
and your videos ?
Is it below the switch 12-B , so not visible in the pics and videos ?

Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum