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Overunity Machines Forum



Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

Started by Craigy, January 04, 2008, 04:11:39 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 12 Guests are viewing this topic.

hydrocontrol

So if you want to retard the drive stator why not just take a 3/4 inch copper pipe, cut it in half, then place that half on the backside of the stator magnet (away from the rotor) . That should induce drag on the stator. Why induce drag on the rotor ?

TomG

vipond50

Quote from: CLaNZeR on January 17, 2008, 04:00:30 PM
Seems harder to get these new Stator Magnets to latch compared to the Bodged Stators I used before the correct ones turn up.

Spent a couple of hours inserting washers one at a time making the Stators Higher or Lower to try and get the easiest config and also moving the Airgap distance bit by bit, bloody boring stuff I will tell ya LOL

This was without the HDPE surround.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSMkHD3YGHU

Better Resolution at

http://www.overunity.org.uk/ocpm/tests/CLaNZeRSOCMPMMNewStators.wmv

Cheers

Sean.



Sean
What i have found is to start the one stator first and than immediately then start the rotor. doing it this way two out of three time i get latch up.
u probably have tried this, but though I'd pass it along anyway. Will send pictures later.

Bill

Bruce_TPU

Hello All,

Something that I just found here OC_MPMM_c.JPG, and was thinking about.  Al said, that at one time he used nylon screws in the stators (for the bearings) but it was not firm enough, so he changed to a metal screw.  We all are using Brass screws, but that is not what is pictured in that picture, and it does not look like stainless. 

If someone could ask Al if these screws are normal nickel steel screws, or stainless, or what for the stators.  It could be significant what type of screw is also used, ie..drag, eddy currents, etc.

Believe me, when I say what you put there affects the bearings, which already have a lot of drag from the magnet, 1/16" above.  I began assembly of my bearings and brass screws last night, and played a bit with the magnet on top, seperated by a fiber washer.  The drag is tremendous.

Please find out from Al what the stator bearing screws are and post it, please!  Thank you!

@ Butch
Your rotor looks like it is cut different than Al's.  Not sure if this would matter, but it might. 

Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

ken_nyus

from my notes on the stator...

"A Delrin cylinder 0.625 OD x 0.500 long, with axial 0.375 dia hole bored all the way through.
Then one end bored out to 0.500 dia x 0.250 deep, to receive magnet.
Then other end bored out to 0.500 dia x 0.175 deep, to receive bearing.
Magnet and bearing light press-fit into the cylinder.

Magnet is K&J 834DIA, 0.500 x 0.250 x 0.1875
Bearing is generic ball bearing, ferromagnetic, 0.500 x 0.1875 x 0.125

Assembly is mounted to baseplate with a SS #4-40 SHCS with the head trimmed for clearance, magnet up, with a little SS washer between the bearing inner race and the baseplate, for clearance and stability."

vipond50

Howdy All
Well here's my setup and a bit of data
Rotor bearings - Gulf Bearing # R1-814-HA3 or R188
Stator - Bearings, # R3-HA1