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Overunity Machines Forum



Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

Started by Craigy, January 04, 2008, 04:11:39 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 35 Guests are viewing this topic.

Omnibus

@vipond50,

I believe fine-tuning is the word here, as in any precise mechanical device if it is to be made to work properly. We have to have a leeway to adjust the several parameters we've identified. Nothing unusual in that. Maybe @alsetalokin has given enough clues. Now it's a matter of skill and, not in the least unimportant, of some luck. Think about reproducing someone else's results when you're doing research in a standard university setting. Many times it's as difficult as this one, if not even more difficult that this one, despite the fact that there the previous work has been published in peer-reviewed literature and not by someone popping up out of nowhere in an internet forum.

vipond50

@ All
This afternoon i finished up machining my Fourth Rotor. The rotor is based off the spec of 144mm X 18 mm. The material is UHMW and the Rotor mass with magnets is 266.8 grams.(8.8 grams heavy). The magnet slots are machined to a depth of 0.410" (10.4mm) so i could deepen them and bring the mass down closer to the mark. There is also a stand off on the bottom of the rotor that  could also be removed and still reduce the total mass to bring the RT closer to the mark.
Will look at this closer tomorrow.

Regards
Bill

Bruce_TPU

Quote from: Omnibus on February 06, 2008, 09:50:50 PM
@Bruce_TPU,

"EDIT:
I wish we had the height from the top of the base to the top of the rotor."

Doesn't this dimension follow from the requirement that the bottom of the rotor magnets has to be flush with the top plane of the stator magnet?

Hmm.... I actually found what I was looking for, in the .pdf.  It would seem that I have my construct incorrect in several regards. 

Incorrect -
I am using a 1" brass 4-40 screw to hold my bearing.  On the underside of the bearing is a mini nut to hold the center race and then the rest screwed into the base plate

Correct -
I need to use a 3/4" long 4/40 Stainless Steel (interesting) screw.  I need a tiny Stainless Steel washer for under the bearing to hold the center race and act as a spacer for the bearing.

Incorrect -

I am not using Stewart-Warner Bearings for my Stators

Correct -
Order Stewart-Warner bearings of correct size from Mike, the bearing guy.

Small progress is good!

Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

vipond50

Quote from: Bruce_TPU on February 06, 2008, 10:10:47 PM
Quote from: Omnibus on February 06, 2008, 09:50:50 PM
@Bruce_TPU,

"EDIT:
I wish we had the height from the top of the base to the top of the rotor."

Doesn't this dimension follow from the requirement that the bottom of the rotor magnets has to be flush with the top plane of the stator magnet?

Hmm.... I actually found what I was looking for, in the .pdf.  It would seem that I have my construct incorrect in several regards. 

Incorrect -
I am using a 1" brass 4-40 screw to hold my bearing.  On the underside of the bearing is a mini nut to hold the center race and then the rest screwed into the base plate

Correct -
I need to use a 3/4" long 4/40 Stainless Steel (interesting) screw.  I need a tiny Stainless Steel washer for under the bearing to hold the center race and act as a spacer for the bearing.

Incorrect -

I am not using Stewart-Warner Bearings for my Stators

Correct -
Order Stewart-Warner bearings of correct size from Mike, the bearing guy.

Small progress is good!

Cheers,
Bruce
Bruce
When U get the Spec on the Stewart-Warner bearing please let me know. I attempted to locate these, but had no luck.
Thanks
Bill

Omnibus

@Bruce_TPU,

I'd like to know that too although see again how nonchalant @alsetalokin is about these matters in a link @blue_energy gave couple of pages back: http://www.steorn.com/forum/comments.php?DiscussionID=59687&page=7#Item_21, :

QuoteNo.
I mean, I scavenge most of this stuff from surplus junk equipment that I scrounge in back alleys.
And you want manufacturers?

These that I'm using now are for 3.5 mm shaft size, in a paired housing that slips into the rotor's central bore, extending down to a shock-mounted base bearing unit.

What I had in there before were just some generic flanged 1/4 inch bore unshielded bearings, and the shaft was a 1/4-20 brass screw. Not the most accurate arrangement.

Of course, I'm kind of dubious here, giving too much emphasis on what @alsetalokin says while on the other hand insisting, as is known, to have a strict copy of the working device. Ultimately, what's important is to have the effect reproduced which would be most likely by following the exact construction of the device, no matter what someone's opinions are and how nonchalant about the details he is.