Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

[alsetalokin]

@All,
And now the fake Ã,“alsetaIokinÃ,”  vs. the genuine Ã,“alsetalokinÃ,”. HereÃ,’s the post of the fake Ã,“alsetaIokinÃ,”: http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3871.msg77010.html#msg77010 . Notice, if you browse through the list of members of this forum youÃ,’ll see that this person has tried to fake the handle first as Ã,“alsetalokjnÃ,” but hasnÃ,’t liked it for obvious reasons which has made him find a sneakier way and the next day he has registered the Ã,“alsetaIokinÃ,” whereby the letter Ã,“lÃ,” and the capital i, that is, Ã,“IÃ,” is displayed as the same letter in the postings of this forum. Just paste these two letters in Word to see the difference. Clever, isnÃ,’t it? The question remains, though, why wouldnÃ,’t the troll register the genuine Ã,“alsetalokinÃ,” handle which doesnÃ,’t seem to exist in the forum members list? This is a question which only Stefan can answer. Could it be that the fake Ã,“alsetaIokinÃ,” wanted to be discovered as a fake at that by @Harvey? The plot thickens which introduces a mildly entertaining element in this whole saga. As for the Ã,“genuineÃ,” Ã,“alsetalokinÃ,” only time will tell whether or not heÃ,’ll reappear after he suddenly ceased his ostensible cooperation with those who tried to replicate his device.

Yes, I have no idea why someone has not registered the real name either....LOL

Regards
Rob

[magpower]

Quote From Al

And yes, the Middle stator does flip easily--it's on the best bearing of all 13. But it is jut a coincidence that the rotor wasn't in just the right position to respond well to the stator when I was wiggling it. I can hold any one of the stators, turn it to just the right angle, and from there, if the rotor is also just right, I can get the rotor to move around quite well as shown in the video--with any of the stators.



I found this today so just maybe we need 2  sticky bearings or greater friction and the center one must really be the best to flip easy, makes sense as he tried 13 and only 3 worked!

Wayne

@All

After building Al's rig and many 4 rotor versions still no go. Last night spent 3 hours trying greater friction bearings on the outside and best in middle. Noticed a little longer run down time, but saw no joy. My fingers are worn. I still think there is something missing. Either he had hidden latches or something else. Bruce was trying to find the same bearings and if someone has one, take one apart I would like to see the inside balls bearings and number. My understanding is he got the 4 by 5 unit to sort of work then went bigger, could be wrong. I won't give up and bought some new bearings today and going to use metal screws/bolts to hold down stators, like Al's next. Really I think by now somebody should on heard or seen the rotor pick up speed, then drop out as things are wrong, but nothing yet!!

Cheers and Good Luck
Wayne

[ken_nyus]

Re: the recent fake Al posts...

If you guys go over to fizzx and look up any of Al's posts, you can see he has changed his avatar image, it now says something like "If you see this anywhere other than fizzx, it is not me..."


...and on my own replication front, I finally found a 4-40 thread tap and drill today, and I will finally screw down my stators and see what I get this weekend. I have two types of bearings to play with, one set all steel, one set with ceramic balls.

[sm0ky2]

I kept seeing the term "GW/AGW" appearing in the converaiton, so  I spend most of the night trying to figure out what you guys were talking about. im still kind of vague on the issue...

Is this because of the two extra stators left over form the original design from which this phenomenon was "accidently" discovered?

i look at this from the standpoint of synchronization - between the rotor and stator.
The stator - being the most difficult piece to construct/modify - should be our Constant.
We should therefore design a method of adjusting our Stator.
1) size
2) location

If we set stator size (magnetic field size) to a constant - then the we are left with one adjusting parameter.

Distance.

set your stator at a distance from the rotor - and turn it (i geared mine off a rubber-tipped dremmell-bit to make it spin), adjust the distance while turning the rotor by hand in the same direction of the stator.
you'll see it when they synch-up, cause the rotor will take over and you wont need to keep turning it, it will just drive off the stator. - i tested this using a 16-pole rotor which is missing what seems to be a crucial piece of this design, as it quickly lost synch when i took the dremmel off. ( the 16-pole rotor did not have the opposing fields facing each other as the original 4-pole design has)

I am going to use this method to adjust the stator location on the new 10-sided (5-pole) rotor im building.
hopefuly that will allow me to get it operating along the lines as some of you guy's 8-sided replications

[JFK]

GW = Gear wise
AGW = Antigearwise

Picture the rotor and stator as gears.