Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

[Grimer]

Over here I'm pretty sure when someone refers to Sean people know it's CLaNZer. Who the heck is this McCarthy fellow you speak of? 

Don't tempt me.

Actually, the name on his birth certificate is Shaun - not to be confused with the othe Shaun who is down the pole as compared.....never mind.

[Rosphere]

Your third video appears to have the "magneto kinetic Jetson damper" added?  Would you care to elaborate?  (Sorry if I missed it earlier.)

...Nothing to elaborate on really, just lathed down some aluminium as per specs by AL and in the plans by JDO.

I spaced them with about 4mm gap from the outside of the Rotor.

Thank you, Sean.

Did anyone check out this video response?

...you need a higher rotor rpm before they sync up??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqEd3KHuEHU

Good find.  I saw that video a while ago.  The counter rotation is interesting.  Besides magnetism and rotation, I wonder if this counter rotation phenomenon is somehow connected.  Thoughts of Schauberger.  This auto synchronization happens without gearing of any sort to drag down the works,... in both devices actually.  Thanks for the link.

Yes, you may be on to something: initial 'startup velocity' may be important.  If a car battery becomes too old to move the starter fast enough to turn over the engine, you replace the starter battery, not the engine.  What ever we use to start the rotor, and stators, spinning must be disengaged, like a car starter, when the motor reaches operating speed.

[Omnibus]

Tomorrow will try to pull out the bearing from several hard drives. Can't wait until Monday. Does anyone have any experience in that?

The parts come apart fairly easily.  If you want to disassemble the main drive motor to remove the coils and ring magnet, you drive or press the main shaft out of the base (the shaft is driven out from the base where you can see it in the middle of the motor in the bearings_024 image below).  That doesn't take a great deal of force.  Once that's open, if you work around the coils with a flathead screwdriver the coils will work loose and fall out.  You normally only have to work the coils in a circle twice over.  If you work the coils apart without touching the base you can do this without any scaring (not that scaring will matter too much in here; if you are too rough you can end up with a couple of sharp jaggies sticking up that may grab the top part when you re-assemble, but if necessary you can file those away without affecting smoothness when it's spinning).

At the ring magnet end, generally (depending on the age of the motor) you will see that it is contained inside a metal ring which is pressed onto the top of the motor assembly.  With a pair of adjustable pliers/multigrips or a vice you can progressively squeeze that metal ring from a few angles and it will pop off without scaring anything.  You can then gently knock the assembly back together and it will be a free-spinning bearing without the coils & magnets.

edit: here are the kinds of bits you end up retrieving (these are from older drives):

http://www.ebswift.com/WhipMag/Bearings_022.jpg
http://www.ebswift.com/WhipMag/Bearings_024.jpg
http://www.ebswift.com/WhipMag/Bearings_025.jpg

Thanks for the advice. Taking out these bearings was quite an ordeal. I have now several  bearings of two different dimensions but they turned out to be metric and will not fit the recommended austenitic stainless steel socket-head cap screws, #4-40. I see the tracking tells me that the rc helicopter bearings will be here tomorrow and we'll see what their measurements will be. The rest of the pieces will be ready probably tomorrow afternoon. This is the situation with me at the moment.

[Bruce_TPU]

@ Sean
Great job today, "playing"!  LOL  I can't wait to see when you receive the proper magnets.

My magnets should be here Monday...I hope.  Machine shop should be finished Tuesday, with Jason's, Hank's and my Base and rotor.  All materials to spec. 

Today, went and purchased all brass machine screws, washers, rubber washers for spacing.  I am not pleased with putting a 4-40  screw through the bearing with a 3/16" center, but we doubled check Al's info and that is what it calls for.  The head of the screw hold down the inner wall of the bearing to the bottom washers and base.  But an exact replication is what we want.

1/4 - 20 brass machine screw for the center rotor.  Washer's, spacers, etc.  Also picked up some glue on rubber feet for the corners.

I only lack 1/2" aluminum round for the dampers and must find that online.  No store in my city has that size (of course  ) 3/8" and 1/4" but no 1/2".

A few more days and we three will be hot on your tail with our replication.   

Happy days,

Bruce

[Rosphere]

@Sean,

As I said, this counter rotation phenomena is interesting.  Auto synchronization happens without gearing of any sort to drag down the works.  It seems to happen, dare I say, naturally.

I wonder if it would be more 'natural' or stable if we were to free the stators up just a little bit more:

Suppose that the center shaft of your device extended further downward and was secured to another lower base plate.  Add another bearing and allow your stator plate, (your old base plate,) to rotate on the same shaft as the rotor, but independently of it.  Knock off the corners to make it a streamlined 'stator-ring.'  Now your stator-ring is free to move about the rotor which is free to move about the shaft.  (Just to be clear, the stators still spin freely on their individual shafts which are now secured to the new stator-ring instead of your old base plate.)

Just a thought.