Thane Heins Perepiteia.

[derricka]

Then a couple of raps with a cold chisel in the newly cut grooves and the bottom comes off. You can
then remove the coils if you wish before cutting the outside legs down.

i_ron, do you cut through all the way across to the beige tape that shows in the photo, or do you only need cut past the weld?
Do you use a wet cloth, or anything, to keep the cutting heat from burning the windings?

[CRANKYpants]

For anyone needing a "shopping list", this is what I have so far. Not sure if Thane has an "official" list, but if anyone has a moment to
fill in any gaps where I have question marks, it would be appreciated. Prices are in Canadian dollars  (.94 US)


Lee Valley Tools:  http://www.leevalley.com/
10" x 3/4" 6-Spoke Wheel, ea.
Part # 03K65.10   
$25.50
(Modified by welding metal disks or cups (source? size?)  for magnet mounting using (type?) welding rods.)

Lee Valley Tools:  http://www.leevalley.com
1"X1/8" Magnet
Part # 99K32.13
$11.90 (5Pack)  ($8.90 for 3 or more packs)


Home Depot  http://www.homedepot.ca
Ryobi 6 In. Bench Grinder Model:  BGH616
Internet/Cat #:  932134
Part #:  Home Depot Store SKU #:  17094
$49.95

Surplus:
2 Microwave oven transformers
(Brand? Pri 125V Sec 4000V ?)
(Modified by removing outer cores using angle grinder, (coolant?) leaving coil with inner core (cut flush to coil?)

DON'T FORGET YOUR MAGNET CUP HOLDERS DERRIKA, AND TRY NOT TO WELD OVER THE HOLE IN THE BACK SO YOU CAN REMOVE MAGNETS IF NEEDED.

I WOULD ALSO SUGGEST MAKING 1 - 6 POLE ROTOR AND 1 - 18 POLE ROTOR BECAUSE FREQUENCY IS A CRITICAL COMPONENT IN OPERATION.

FOR EXAMPLE FOR WITH LARRYC - HIS HIGH VOLTAGE COILS DECELERATE THE PRIME MOVER LIKE ANY CONVENTIONAL GENERATOR BELOW ABOUT 700 RPM AND CAUSE ACCELERATION ABOVE IT.

AND DON'T KILL YOURSELF DISCONNECTING THOSE TRANSFORMERS
AND
NEVER STAND IN THE TRAJECTORY PATH OF THE ROTOR MAGNETS DURING OPERATION - RIGHT LARRY?  .

WITH THE 18 POLE ROTOR WE HAVE BEEN ABLE TO ACHIEVE ACCELERATION IN AROUND THE 200 RPM RANGE.

GOOD LUCK! 
Thane

PS DO YOU KNOW A MR. WHITE (Ph.D. STUDENT) FROM QUEEN'S?

[i_ron]

i_ron, do you cut through all the way across to the beige tape that shows in the photo, or do you only need cut past the weld?
Do you use a wet cloth, or anything, to keep the cutting heat from burning the windings?

In this example I was suggesting to disassemble the MOT by just grinding a little ditch through the weld about 3/32 of an inch deep... on both sides. You can see the joint line across the end of the core? this top piece will lift off after the above operation.

However, as we are not going to reuse the transformer in its present configuration one could cut the legs off at the other end. In which case heat could be a problem. I disassemble as described, then cut the legs off in a power bandsaw. I clamp a sacrificial piece of metal over the cut then the laminations don't come adrift.

What ever works for you!  Keeping in mind that Thane has possibly moved on to the bi core coil...

Ron

[CRANKYpants]

What ever works for you!  Keeping in mind that Thane has possibly moved on to the bi core coil...
Ron

I_RON, DON'T FORGET TO EXPLAIN YOUR "HOT AIR" DENSITY THEORIES TO SIR DERRICKA. WHICH WILL HELP THEM IN THIS PROJECT 

T

[LarryC]

NEVER STAND IN THE TRAJECTORY PATH OF THE ROTOR MAGNETS DURING OPERATION - RIGHT LARRY?  .

You must be talking about that unforcasted Neo Meteorite storm that I created and Luc also did a great exploding claymore Neo box. Watch out for the ATF!   


DON'T FORGET YOUR MAGNET CUP HOLDERS DERRIKA, AND TRY NOT TO WELD OVER THE HOLE IN THE BACK SO YOU CAN REMOVE MAGNETS IF NEEDED.

Another tip, the magnets are extremely hard to remove from the cups even with the hole in back. Lee V. recommends that a slit is cut in the side (seen a few of these slits in Thanes older pic's) to help pry the magnet out without breaking. I cut a piece of thin transformer laminate steel to fit the bottom of the cup and placed the magnet on top. With that it is easy to push them out thru the back hole with a rod.

Regards, Larry