Thane Heins Perepiteia.

[innovation_station]

 


well folks  i offer any help i can offer ........

and

well i have a few words for you all  GET ER DONE

@ Thaine   in the next comming months i may have some time and some materials laying around to build a real nice unit for demonstration perpousous on this site but being this is your tech i would like to work with you on this and im also in canada lol ontario in fact and really not all that far from you

yea im sure i can put my hands where my mouth is lol

hey maybe even my pocket too lol

ist

[Heinstein]

Please realize that when people spend money and time with high hope to replicate something only to have it fail possibly because of incomplete info to accuratly replicate, they learn to seek more complete info.
IF YOU WENT ONLINE AND PURCHASED A HOME DEPOT 6" BENCH GRINDER (1/2 " ARBOUR),
A LEE VALLEY 10" WHEEL BARREL WHEEL, 12 - 1" LEE VALLEY MAGNETS MAGNETS W/ CUP HOLDERS - YOU WOULD BE 3/4's OF THE WAY THERE. THEN MAKE A COIL AND YOU ARE DONE.

Looking through the skeptic forum I partly agreed with:

4) Heins' support has mostly been "watch these videos," a poor substitue for handing out careful schematics.
5) When others fail to replicate Heins' effect, Heins tells them it's their problem, even before knowing the details. If Heins is following the typical crackpot script, as the above suggests

I DON'T HAVE A COPY OF THE CRACKPOT SCRIPT CAN YOU SEND ME ONE?

Full details of the motor, I just turned down a 1/2hp motor because I was not sure if a 1/4 inch shaft might be too small for the flux/aether/whatever. (now looking at your video again I would estimate the steel rod in the brass coupler is about 1/4 inch)

- RYOBI 6" BENCH GRINDER - I/2 INCH ARBOUR.

And there are various types of induction motor, also possibly important? Is not having a magnetic steel face plate on it.

RYOBI 6" BENCH GRINDER HAS A STEEL HOUSING.

Also replicators should be warned to check with a magnet that the shaft is of a magnetic steel.
Anyone know of a easy way to limit the power of an induction motor? Variacs aren't cheap and my one (actually an autotransformer) is in poor shape)

USE A CEILING FAN SWITCH OR A STEP DOWN TRANSFORMER OR MAKE A VARIABLE INDUCTOR.

A PVC non magnetic coupler sounds like a good idea, if you want to expand how you attached that to each shaft.

GLUE IT W/ EPOXY

Were the bearings between the motor and generator made of a steel that is strongly attracted to a magnet? (could they divert the flux? If yours were and it still worked that would be good to know)

ALUMINUM BEARINGS
WHERE WOULD THEY DIVERT IT TO?
MAGNETIC FLUX NEEDS A CLOSED LOOP LIKE ELECTRICITY.

In your motor gen setup are there any air gaps from the magnet to the motor shaft?
THE MAGNETS ARE ATTACHED TO THE STEEL ROTOR.

I there are 2 where you insert the steel piece in your brass coupler,
THERE IS A 3" AIR GAP INSIDE THE BRASS COUPLER - TO WHICH A 3" STEEL BAR IS INSERTED CHANGING THE SETUP FROM MAGNETICALLY ISOLATED TO MAGNETICALLY COUPLED.

what about how your rotor attaches to the shaft?
THE WAGON WHEEL "ROTOR" IS MADE TO ATTACH TO A 1/2" SHAFT AND THE BENCH DRINDER SHAFT IS THREADED AND A NUT IS PROVIDED BY RYOBI TO SECURE THE ROTOR.

Anyway here is my crack at it (forgive me for mixing metric and imperial), measurements guessed at from the video. THAT'S CRACK POT ATTEMPT RIGHT?

A 1/4hp induction motor (shaft size down to as low as 1/4in should be fine). With starter cap.
GOOD.

Brass coupler though PVC is more practical, tested with and without a ferrous steel bar 1/4inch dia approx 9cm long, try to keep gaps between bar and shafts as tight as possible.
GOOD.

A bearing to hold the shaft, unknown but possibly best to find one which is at most weakly magnetic.
THE TYPE OF BEARING HAS NO BEARING USE STEEL IF REQUIRED.

Rotor is a steel wheelbarrow wheel, about 27cm Diameter, with 6 strong spokes (also appear to be about 1/4 inch).
COULD ALSO BE SOLID - DOES NOT REQUIRE SPOKES.

Magnets are Neodymium. Iron & Boron, about 30mm dia and appear to be about 12mm thick, there are 18 of them in a n/s/n/s pattern.  (It is not known if a solid steel generator rotor would work but it is being tested with no real reason to expect failure)
GOOD
- GO WITH A 6 POLE ROTOR - LESS WEIGHT, BETTER PERFORMANCE - LIGHTER FLYWHEEL - THE 18 POLE WAS MOSTLY FOR TESTING THE TOROID COIL.

The greater the diameter the greater the leverage the generator drag has on the motor,
IN THE CONVENTIONAL GENERATOR MODE - YOUR TEST CONTROL VARIABLE.

if the motor is too near it's max speed little speed increase will be seen, never the less the effect is noticed in the gear reduced universal motors used in drills. 
GOOD.
LITTLE OR NO SPEED INCREASE WILL BE SEEN - BUT IT SHOULD NOT DECELERATE EITHER WHEN MAGNETICALLY COUPLED - AND SHOULD DECELERATE WHEN MAGNETICALLY ISOLATED.

If the motor isn't turning it fast enough it will slow down, there is a feedback effect where the faster the motor turns the greater the back emf, the more the back-emf accelerates the motor. 
GOOD.
THERE IS A THRESHOLD SPEED WHERE THE GENERATOR RPM NEEDS TO BE ABOVE THAT
TO PRODUCE ENOUGH MMF's TO MAKE INTO THE MOTOR.

Tuning the effect to the motor for the most dramatic results may require experimentation and something to control the power going to the motor.
GOOD
LIKE A VARIAC, CEILING FAN SPEED ADJUSTER, VARIABLE INDUCTOR, OR YOU CAN ALSO EMPLOY THE HYSTERISIS BRAKE EFFECT BY PUTTING SOME IRON NEAR YOUR ROTOR MAGNETS.

Beware of excessive cogging torque or hysteresis that may stop the mottor dead immediatly with or without magnetic coupling to the motor.
GOOD
BEWARE OF IT OR USE IT TO YOUR ADVANTAGE.

The core the coil is wound on is made of a magnetic steel, it is not laminated so has high core losses as intendid.
NO GOOD
THE MORE EFFICIENT YOUR COIL THE BETTER.
I MADE 100's OF COILS OVER 5 YEARS SO TO SAVE TIME I USED CHEAP READILY AVAILABE STEEL.
USE THE BEST CORE MATERIAL YOU CAN FIND.

It appears to be about the same diameter as the magnets and looks to be 12cm long.
GOOD
THE AREA OF THE CORE DICTATES MAGNETIC FIELD MMF MAGNITUDE.
MINE ARE ALL VARIOUS SIZES TO TEST DIFFERENT EFFECT BUT THEY ALL WORK.

The coil is of wire assumed to be about 22AWG or in the neighbourhood but it likely is not too important.
GOOD.
THE WIRE GUAGE WILL DICTATE CURRENT MAGNITUDE SO DON'T GO TOO SMALL OR YOUR INDUCED MAGNETIC FIELD WILL BE SMALL AS WELL.

The mass of wire probably is more important and it seems to be about 1cm shorter than the core at the back and probably also the front end, it seems to increase the diameter by about another 30mm.
??
IDEALLY THE COIL SHOULD BE PROFESIONALLY MADE AND VERY SYMETRICAL - THE LENGTH HAS AN EFFECT ALSO ON THE MAGNETIC FIELD PRODUCED.

I intend on using 24AWG which is usefully about .5mm thick so that would be about 6,000 turns.
GOOD

There must be a complete magnetic circuit from the Neodymium magnets to the motor shaft.
YES GOOD SORT OF?
IF YOU MEAN A COMPLETE FERROMAGNETIC FLUX PATH - YES.
FOR BEST PERFORMANCE THERE SHOULD BE A CLOSED MAGNETIC CIRCUIT BETWEEN A NORTH POLE MAGNET ON THE ROTOR AND A SOUTH POLE ON THE ROTOR.
- THE COIL CAN ALSO BE A SINGLE SOLENOID AS WELL.

These measurements are all estimates and could be easily out +/- 15% possibly even more.
RIGHT.

Provided that there is a direct complete ferrious magnetic path to the motor and it isn't running unloaded there is a good chance this effect can be seen on some level with quite different setups other than the one described.
GOOD - PERHAPS
BUT WITH THE MASS OF THE ROTOR AND THE COGGING TORQUE THE MOTOR IS LOADED.
DID YOU MEAN GENERATOR?

But it is possible that there are unknown conditions the effect may rely on. (the shape of the rotor?
ROUND IS A GOOD ROTOR SHAPE.

The coil core supporting eddy currents? etc...)
BEST TO USE CORE MATERIAL WITH A THIN HYSTERISIS CURVE FOR BEST RESULTS.

A list of ideas for experimentation may well follow.
GOOD.

PulsedPower, that's an excellent info dense post, thanks.

HEY WHAT ABOUT ME GUYS?
CAN SOMEONE GET ME OFF THE CRACK POT LIST NOW PLEASE

Thane

[aether22]

Thane, sorry for causing you any stress, but thanks for giving more complete info.

IF YOU WENT ONLINE AND PURCHASED A HOME DEPOT 6" BENCH GRINDER (1/2 " ARBOUR),
A LEE VALLEY 10" WHEEL BARREL WHEEL, 12 - 1" LEE VALLEY MAGNETS MAGNETS W/ CUP HOLDERS - YOU WOULD BE 3/4's OF THE WAY THERE. THEN MAKE A COIL AND YOU ARE DONE.

Can't find the wheelbarrow wheel online, will proceed with by solid rotor and ask Luc to send me one if I fail to get decent results.
Just bought a grinder, not that one since shipping would have added to the time and cost too much, hope the one I got suits but the price was right, $10NZ in a local auction.

I DON'T HAVE A COPY OF THE CRACKPOT SCRIPT CAN YOU SEND ME ONE?

Here you go

Be very hard to understand and technically ignorant     F
Be secretive           F-
Keep real keys to it's success hidden   F (I hope)
Decide humanity isn't ready for it   F
Give no or very poor instructions or plans     E-
Know almost nothing of how it works    F
Rave on about UFO's, Angels, Channeled info etc...    F-
Hold out for Money money money!!, screw the world, even sell out    -F
Create crazy theories (I hate theories, one should wait until a mountain of evidence paints undeniably clear picture)   -F
Insist that OU isn't possible even as you clearly demonstrates it    F
Turn out to be mistaken or scamming     F (I'm sure)
Ignore danger posed by Oil and such    F
Is dismissive and disinterested in verification from respected scientists   F   <The one I would personally score most highly on, I have very low respect or care for them

Overall result F, you fail to be any decent crackpot at all!

COULD ALSO BE SOLID - DOES NOT REQUIRE SPOKES. - He reasonably assumed, or so I assume

there are 18 of them
GOOD
- GO WITH A 6 POLE ROTOR - LESS WEIGHT, BETTER PERFORMANCE - LIGHTER FLYWHEEL - THE 18 POLE WAS MOSTLY FOR TESTING THE TOROID COIL.

Ah, should make it a bit easier attaching only 6 magnets.

A VARIAC, CEILING FAN SPEED ADJUSTER, VARIABLE INDUCTOR, OR YOU CAN ALSO EMPLOY THE HYSTERISIS BRAKE EFFECT BY PUTTING SOME IRON NEAR YOUR ROTOR MAGNETS.

I'm going to look into the costs of the ceiling fan controller but would like to ask anyone experienced with MOSFET circuits to design a suited circuit that might hopefully be built for a few dollars. (I suck at designing mosfet circuits)

The core the coil is wound on is made of a magnetic steel, it is not laminated so has high core losses as intended.
NO GOOD

But the aim is to slow the motor slow down with drag no? Indeed we are increasing the rotor diameter to ensure this.
Though if you want to reach OU maybe laminated high quality is best, but then again unless you have verified it I think it remains speculation, just because you don't know why such would be critical does not mean it may not be until pr oven otherwise by experiment. (Can we say it is improbable that such is required but not impossible unless you have tested it already)

THE MORE EFFICIENT YOUR COIL THE BETTER.
I MADE 100's OF COILS OVER 5 YEARS SO TO SAVE TIME I USED CHEAP READILY AVAILABE STEEL.
USE THE BEST CORE MATERIAL YOU CAN FIND.

What changed? what was wrong with your first ones or right about your last ones?
THE WIRE GUAGE WILL DICTATE CURRENT MAGNITUDE SO DON'T GO TOO SMALL OR YOUR INDUCED MAGNETIC FIELD WILL BE SMALL AS WELL.

Yes but most times thinner wire means more turns in the same space, so higher voltage induced with equal increases in voltage and resistance.
So less current flows but you get turns so the field stays the same.  Now something weird might be (IS) happening so you can not be sure sure of otherwise normal physics working as expected. if in doubt replicate the original before changing anything.

The mass of wire probably is more important and it seems to be about 1cm shorter than the core at the back and probably also the front end, it seems to increase the diameter by about another 30mm.
??
IDEALLY THE COIL SHOULD BE PROFESIONALLY MADE AND VERY SYMETRICAL - THE LENGTH HAS AN EFFECT ALSO ON THE MAGNETIC FIELD PRODUCED.

Ah, no what I mean is that the coil increases the total diameter by 3cm on top of the cores 3cm so the core and coil is about 6cm diameter IF my estimation is reasonably accurate.

These measurements are all estimates and could be easily out +/- 15% possibly even more.
RIGHT.

There was a hint that maybe you missed   maybe I can get Luc to get busy with a ruler next time he visits.
Though I do believe there is enough info to make a successful replication quite straight forward, so I'm probably being silly.
Though if I ever invent an important device my first action will be to video construction of one or more in as much detail as possible, preferably hold a work shop where many can build it and upload that to youtube with parts lists and plans etc...

BUT WITH THE MASS OF THE ROTOR AND THE COGGING TORQUE THE MOTOR IS LOADED.
DID YOU MEAN GENERATOR?

I mean a magnetic path from gen to motor, but possibly not the one running the generator, of course that would remove the feedback effect but it would be interesting to investigate the effect more in isolation.

ROUND IS A GOOD ROTOR SHAPE.

This is the kind of critical information I'm glad you just shared! think of all the shapes I could have tried first!

BEST TO USE CORE MATERIAL WITH A THIN HYSTERISIS CURVE FOR BEST RESULTS.

I'll do one of each, I have a stack of I bar laminations from a transformer perfect for this.

HEY WHAT ABOUT ME GUYS?

You did excellent, you just made it a whole lot easier to replicate, thx!

CAN SOMEONE GET ME OFF THE CRACK POT LIST NOW PLEASE

You're off!

[nightlife]

I noticed that he uses a fan to keep the grinding wheel motor cool and I am wondering that if was powered with pulses instead of direct current by using a relay, could that be used to help keep the motor cool by using the collapsing field of the relay pulsed to the motor in between the pulsed main power.

Would that also help make the operation more efficient? Couldn't this concept be used with all electric powered motors?

I have seen where this concept was used in helping keep electrolizer cells cooler and yet also helped the efficientcy of the operation.

[nightlife]

Also, couldn't the magnets on the wheel be wrapped with windings and then tied in to the coils output to help create more electricity?