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Overunity Machines Forum



Peter Davey Heater

Started by storre, February 09, 2008, 11:00:32 AM

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Sprocket

#220
June 16, 2008, 09:54:23 PM
Quote from: ramset on June 16, 2008, 06:47:38 PM
SPROCKET   NICE thats a BIG difference   you going to put an in line meter on both   Chet  [ silly question]

Chet, as I mentioned, I am not willing to risk blowing the fuse in my Fluke meter, so current readings will have to wait till I get a clamp meter - actually bought a really cheap one six months ago but it didn't work, so I opted for a refund rather than swapping for another...

Time to go shopping again. :)

Sprocket

#221
June 16, 2008, 10:34:37 PM
@nul-points - that was my next question, how efficient is your average kettle.  Wikipedia suggests over 90% so ND's measurment is likely correct.  Presuming my kettle has a 95% efficiency, (@ more then 15 yo, I doubt it!) at the very least, it takes half the time to boil the same amount of water as the kettle does, which means that it should be using twice the current - which isn't possible as they both have 13A fuses!  btw, I decided to see how long it would take almost 2L of water to boil in a plastic coke bottle with the top chopped off - got to 115sec when water started pouring out as the bottle melted - won't try that again!!! :D  So, some suitable glassware is also on my shopping -list...

Anyway, been playing some more.  Had a silly urge to see what would happen with a 3A fuse - 5 secs after switch on, it blew, so it clearly draws more than 3 amps! :D  Swapped out the inner 'bell' for a larger one (see 'dark' pic.) - couldn't detect any difference...

nul-points

#222
June 17, 2008, 03:15:07 AM
again, nice follow up!

i think metered current readings are going to be necessary before the testing goes too much further

if the fuses you're blowing are physical and not circuit-breaker type, then they will have a finite time to blow if they're at, or not too much above, their rated current - this could make it look like the current is below the rating at start of test & then look like it's increased dramatically to blow fuse after some number of seconds into the test

i think it's quite significant that two sets of results have come in with strong indication of very high efficiency and yet there has been no attempt at 'tuning' for things like standing waves, electrode resonance or microcavitation

looking forward to hearing forest's results with enclosed electrodes - i can't see enough of his test-rig in the photo to see if it is vented - this will be very important for his safety - not just improved efficiency

all the best
sandy
>]Doc Ringwood website [/color][/size][/font][/url] http://ringcomps.co.uk/doc
"To do is to be" ---  Descartes;
"To be is to do"  ---  Jean Paul Sarte;
"Do be do be do" ---  F. Sinatra

devrimogun

#223
June 17, 2008, 08:29:18 AM
Quote from: Sprocket on June 16, 2008, 05:49:08 PM
Well, I decided to have a shot at this.  No bells available, so I went with two SS measures, one inside the other (yep, I've been raiding the kitchen again :))  Working with 230V AC, I started out with a 5A fuse, and was quite surprised that it didn't blow - at first!  When the water begins to boil, the current increases big-time, and it blew.  Exchanging this for a 13A solved the problem...

Some results:

My electric kettle is rated between 1850-2200W and with a full-load of about 1.75L, it takes 320 seconds to boil.  Using my gizmo, the same quantity takes 105 seconds.  So no instant-boiling...  Unfortunately, I don't have a clamp meter, and although my multi-meter's fuse is rated to 10A, I didn't want to risk blowing it, so no current reading.  However, as both the kettle and the gizmo use 13A fuses, and the kettles rated power usage is about 10A, I think it is reasonable to assume that even my first attempt is more efficient power-wise - at least that's my take on it!  I tried various things such as leaving the inner part loose, and a few attempts at adjusting its placing, but it didn't seem to have any effect.  Neither did the way it was orientated in the water, though with no holes to let the bubbles out, I tested it right-side-up most of the time...

My first impression is that maybe it is just more efficient to boil water this way...


These results look very encouraging.
Your kettle must be drawing around 8-9amps the whole time during 320 secs.
We do not know what the device is drawing but less then 10amps as the fuse did not blow.
There is a 1/3 difference in time and even if the efficiency of the kettle is 50% then we are talking about a COP of 1.5
How's that EM ?  ::)
Moreover we do not know if the device drew a steady 9-10amps  the whole time it worked.

nul-points

#224
June 17, 2008, 10:52:30 AM
hi Dev

i think the final fuse on the test-rig was 13A, not 10

maybe a retest with 10A fuse would be a good follow-up, though?

best
sandy
Doc Ringwood's Free Energy site  http://ringcomps.co.uk/doc
"To do is to be" ---  Descartes;
"To be is to do"  ---  Jean Paul Sarte;
"Do be do be do" ---  F. Sinatra
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