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Overunity Machines Forum



Peter Davey Heater

Started by storre, February 09, 2008, 11:00:32 AM

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DOCV

I attached the live to the outside bell and got zero zipp nada. No amps not heat Just nothing. On the inside I got instant heat, amps etc..
Wonder what was happening as sprocket got something...

forest

I have a bit more complicated assembly with a threaded rod connected to the neutral and going throught outer and inner bell but connected electrically to outer bell while live wire is connected to inner bell. That threaded rod is ended with a metal cap.Neutral wire is also wrapped around outer bell a few times.

Unfortunately I have no fast heat or boiling action. Water just goes a little bit warmer but it took many minutes and 220V/0.4A which dropped to 0.2A at the end.

Nothing  interesting.

forest

I realized that my inner bell is mostly covered by black paint which is probably insulation so I must scrap it all and retest again. The problem is how to mount bells in such manner that allow them to vibrate and still be connected to power. Any wire connected to bells seems to reduce vibration a lot.

forest

Looking once again into video... Obviously that small hemispherical metalic objects laying on Davey tabletop are common because he has got so many. Why I can't find any ? Where can I buy a few such hemispheres ?

storre

Quote from: forest on June 21, 2008, 04:39:39 PM
I realized that my inner bell is mostly covered by black paint which is probably insulation so I must scrap it all and retest again. The problem is how to mount bells in such manner that allow them to vibrate and still be connected to power. Any wire connected to bells seems to reduce vibration a lot.

If you fasten the bell at it's top then it doesn't dampen the vibrations so you could use a teflon screw with it's center drilled out that would accept a metal screw which would connect to the inner bell. Connect the phase line to the top of that center bolt. The outer bell could have a nut welded to it so it can screw up and down the teflon bolt to adjust the spacing. The wire for the outer bell could be soldered to the nut to not dampen the vibrations.

You could also use a drilled out metal bolt if you put good insulation on the center bolt that will connect to the inner bell. In this case you could make both electrical connections at the top of the outer and inner screw.

The screw thread to adjust the distance could also be done so the inside of the teflon bolt would have the screw threads and the inner bolt would screw in and out of it to adjust the distance. The outer bell would be fixed to not move.

I will be trying one of these variation in the next couple of weeks. I found a friend that has access to a machine shop :)