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Overunity Machines Forum



Peter Davey Heater

Started by storre, February 09, 2008, 11:00:32 AM

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0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

petersone

Thank you Sprocket,that was a great help!!! Only kidding, can it be said that both bells need to be tuned,or is it just one?
On the distance apart thing,if they need to be parallel over the total area,it could be done with cones,if they will work,I think cones have been mentioned before.
happy hunting.
peter

Sprocket

I wish I knew, seriously!  I tried various setups but could get nothing extraordinary to happen.  Again, there are zero facts known about what makes this puppy work - we do not even have a ball-park figure on what power a 'working' heater uses!  I went and bought a digital thermometer and a few wattmeters with the intent of further investigating, but on 'discovering' electrode boilers, coupled with the sheer number of unknowns involved, I'm currently suffering an enthusaism deficiency... :D

ggx9

Hi Digits,

In reference to your August 10 posting, would you give the dimension between the bells? Was the starting water temperature the same as the room, could you give an estimate of that temperature?
Plugging in some guestimates for the missing numbers I calculate an approximate COP of 15!
Keep up the good work.

Richard

Paul-R

Quote from: petersone on August 12, 2008, 11:51:01 AM
Hi All
Been reading this thread with interest,just two questions,at the moment,if someone would be good enough to answer,do BOTH bells need to be tuned to 50hz?and doe's the surfice of the bells need to be totally parallel to each other over there intire area
peter
Yes, if your mains is 50hz, (and of course, in the States it is 60), then both bells must
be tuned to 50hz - or any octave higher, i.e. 100hz, 200hz and the favourite, 400hz.

If the bells are identical, they will not be parallel exactly. It is a snag. In an ideal world,
the outer bell would have a radius larger than the inner one by the amount of the separation.

Keep it simple. Find some stainless steel soup ladles.

I am using the casing of a computer's power supply unit:
http://www.build-a-computer-guide.com/images/barebone-PSU.jpg
They can be picked up for nothing from an old scrapped computer or recycling centre.
The top sheet metal comes off, the insides can be removed and put aside. Cut a channel
in the "[" (channel) shaped sheet metal piece that comes off. Cut the handles off the ladles.
Drill a M8 hole in the centre of the ladle bowls. Buy some M8 screwed rod. Araldite the M8
bolts to the sheet metal piece, having put a small piece of insulator, glass, to insulate one
of the bowls from the other. You get the general idea.
Paul.

Digits

Hi guys sorry for replying so late I'm under allot of pressure.we are working on a power station on a Reverse Osmosis plant to be commissioned.
I  cannot give you foto's right now I'm away from home working on the plant but I am busy with drawings witch I will post later tonight to give you some idea.

first of all on the drawing Peter Davey shows that the wires should go through a little pipe or tube to each bell,I however could not do that for I only had a solid PVC threaded rod,so I just connected the neutral on the top bell and the live at the bottom on the bottom bell.
the wire did seem to hinder the performance of the element though,the best resalts was when the bells was running free,no wires touching the sides.thats obvious it hinders the bell from resonating freely.

Next I only tuned one bell(this is the key I think,and should be done very carefully) I don't know if I should tune the other one too, I just don't see it necessary for the 50HZ cycle will come from the live feeding the bottom bell that is tuned through to the other bell and dissipate via the neutral.I don't see that tuning the other bell will have any significance(I might be wrong but only experimenting will tell).

Now some one did mention that it might not really have to be 50HZ it might be 100,200,400 and so on and I found that to be true.
if you wantit to resonate at 50HZ its going to be a huge bell.I Have a guitar tuner and I tuned it to G,then I took my sinewave generator and put a speaker to it.I would then hit the bell and tune the generator to the same sound the bell made it was roughly 1550 to 1580 I don't know it sort of sounded the same to me.If I took some metal off the pitch will go higher so this is a very carefull exercise.

I used just plain old tap water I just wanted to see if it works.I had some electronisescoming of the bells not too much and when I touched the bucket the water was already warm and I could feel the water getting hotter almost every second.my water however don't heat as quick as Peter Davey' on the video though.
when the element is running I can actually feel the resonance it makes a nice buzz sound very soft and I can feel little vibrations almost like the sound that a transformer makes when it's on.

last I don't think this is OU it's really a very efficient way to heat liquid but I might be wrong I do have another question,if we tune this to resonance and swap the AC for DC and make the sine wave a square wave,would it not make one nice electronisis machine? just a thought.

you guys have asked allot of questions I hope I answered all if not let me know.( ill get back to you on that Pic's)

thank you

Digits